Did it again, but this time i reset ecu first... Let it sit 2 mins, unplug TPS and it idles a little off again, but when its on jack i went through all the gears and it feels good.... Turn off and plug in B+FP, no change maybe a hair little but the bad idle is still there

 

Try disconnecting the vacuum hose to the EGR (red arrow) and plug it:

 

Makes it worst... Idle is worsen.. Drives harder...

 

Have you checked the compression? Did the idling problem start recently or has it always idled poorly?

 

This is a 55k original mi motor. It was running perfectly when it was pulled. The compression tested was at 200 all the way.. There was no idle issues no check engine light, no stalls... I have not even driven this motor since i installed last weekend..just so worry about being stranded...

 

Im out of ideas and willing to try anything... I also checked the ecu plug side and turn the ignition ON. Again, same reading as above...

 

I think the next step would be to verify that all vacuum hoses are in the correct locations, double check for vacuum leaks, check all engine and chassis grounds, etc. etc.. If it ran fine before you swapped it into your rig, something didn't get hooked back up right.

You can download a copy of the factory service manual from the link in my signature if you don't have one already.

 

What other things can cause a TPS to go bad?

 

If it got bumped hard enough while the motor was being transplanted it's very possible it could have been knocked out of adjustment, and some solvents can deteriorate the internals if sprayed in the throttle body. To completely rule it out as a possible cause, adjust and test it following the FSM procedure to the letter.

 

I'd start looking for breaks or bad connections in the wiring harness. You transplanted that with the engine, right?

 

the motor was from a 1987 2WD, so the motor wiring harness would not work. I end up using my original harness from the car.. which all plugs fits like a charms...now this issue...

 

Almost forgot to mention, but I was testing the plugs from the ECU and saw that my ECU is from a 87 4runner. (its written in bold on the back of the ECU, 87 4RUNNER) I believe it does make a difference.... the trouble code for 11 is Neutral Start Switch or IDL .... where is the Neutral Start Switch and is it only for AUTOMATIC Transmissions??

 

I think I'm getting closer to the solution. Im so sure now its the IDL.. Code 11 on the 87 could only be 2 thing, and Code 11 only comes on when im in gear and accelerating... The rear end is on jacks, so i get in plug everything and put in gear like i was driving down the street... Once i do that, i get 11 blinks right away. Once i put in on neutral i get 1 blink = normal...

 

Cash for a solution!!

 

Okay, used a different ECU, and nothing happens but same code 11.... It runs but idles poorly...

Code 11 only appears when u rev or drive. When the rig sits and idle, code 1 only...heard something about close loop? Not sure what that is but im lost now....

 

I would check your auxiliary air valve. The valves like to stall you on deceleration once they go bad....Look at the manual and do the troubleshooting for particular Item hope you found the issue

 

You should ONLY check engine codes with the key in the ON position but the engine OFF.

 

quick question...could engine heat cause a throttle body to give out? I replaced mine, never adjusted it cause i've had problems doing so but it's starting to give signs of dying. When I start the truck up when I have used it throughout the day after other starts it bogs down and dies. If I give it some gas it adjusts and runs but sometimes it will bog down twice and run fine after that.

 

Has this been resolved? Mine does it occasionally when all of the vacuum ports are used/plugged. Plug them all and the truck dies or its hard to start..unplug one and leave it off and it runs great!

 

I replaced the throttle body and changed out the directional thing on the side so I can use the same sensor. It's been working fine since then.