My yota dies when I’m coming to a stop or slowing down. I let it sit for a few mins and it starts right up, but I have to keep my foot on the gas or I’ll die. It’s been happening where my ride needs to be towed. When I get home and it sits for a few hours or so, it starts up and idles fine for as long as I let it run. It sounds a little rough but it runs and revs nicely. Right when I drive it, it last a few miles only then dies again. I checked and replace the coil and still it remains a mystery. My motor locked up and I swapped out for a fresh 22re I found on CL. Since the swap I’ve been itching about driving it and being stranded. The new motor sounds like a virgin and there is no check engine light.

I was told it might be the fuel pump. When I turn on the key to #1 I don’t hear anything from the gas tank. Then I turn it a few times, 1 out of 3 times I can hear the fuel pump suction…I’m not sure if it needs to be consistent with every turn of the key or not?

When I turn the key to #2, I can hear this clicking coming from the pass side by the ECU side. I think that’s the fuel pump relay but I could be wrong. If it is, then i think I need a new fuel pump, because that relay seems to be working.

Can some one help diagnose my issue? I just got done with this project and I can’t even drive it.

86 toyota 4runner
22re with 87 toyota ECM & 87 motor

No engine mods but TONS of suspension mods

 

Not all codes illuminate the CEL and there may some codes stored in memory. Jump ports E1 & TE1 in the diagnostics port with a paper clip or piece of wire and turn the key to the 'on' position (engine off). The CEL will either blink consistently if the ECU thinks everything is ok or it will blink codes.



Codes can be interpreted here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...es/index.shtml

The fuel pump will only come on if has had time to depressurize. Sounds normal.

That clicking is most likely the Circuit Opening Relay. Also normal.

Check for codes and report back...I have a sneaking suspicion that the ECU is not seeing the IDL signal from the throttle position sensor.

 

Okay, heres what i did... place the car on jack in the rear and did the jumper thing... with the keys on and engine not running;

1 blink.......5 secs.........1 blink = "very consistant"

when engin is on and running in gears:

11 blinks.......5 secs...........11 blinks = "very consistant"

when engine is idleing:

1 blink ..............6 secs ................ 1 blink = "very consistant"

i ran the codes i see nothing that matchs unless im reading something wrong....

 

Okay, did some more troubleshooting.. Found out on autozone.com has vehicle manules... Ran code 11 and found it was TPS/IDL/ECU plug or part...˟

Since plug is crack and has no metal clip, i cut and splice and use another that came with the motor... Same color wires as my original wire harness... Now it runs even worst... Starting was tough and rev was limited.... Same code 11 appear... So i did the 4crawler thing and test the TPS:
With ignition ON, readings to the TPS 110-111 ohms...
Also did a DC test for power:
With ignition ON, readings in order from wire to wire top to bottom
White: 5.03
Blue: 36-38
Black: 11.83
Brown: 15.8

With TPS unplug codes. 7 & 11 appears.. Again those linked up to the TPS... I have a feeling i should be looking for a ECU? Please do confirmmy testing?

 

First off, you will never have 36-38 volts on a 12 volt system. This tells me you're not using your meter correctly. Codes are as follows:

Code 7:
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN TPS SIGNAL
--TPS SENSOR
--TPS SIGNAL/CIRCUIT
--ECU

Code 11:
SWITCH SIGNALS
IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU
WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED
--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--A/C AMPLIFIER
--TPS/CIRCUIT
--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT
--ECU

Re-test the TPS with your meter on ohms. It will either say ohms or have the following symbol.



IDL-E2, which I believe is your problem, should have continuity with the throttle closed and no continuity when the throttle is opened.

VCC-E2 should be between 3-7k ohms, increasing steadily as the throttle moves from closed to WOT. If here are abrupt changes in resistance while slowly opening the throttle, the TPS needs to be replaced.

Start with those and report back.

 

Whats funny is this is a new running motor. It ws running when pulled from the car. It has original 55k miles and it was tested before it was pulled... Could it be that the ECU is bad? I will still continue to check and follow up...

 

Pretty rare for an ECU to fail.

 

Thanks for your help. Appologize, yesterday i was out of town and didnt do any testing. But this is what i have,

With ohms,˟

engine off:˟

IDL + E2 = 89.0
VC (VCC, not sure if the same) + E2 = 6.60

Engin on idle:

VC (VCC, not sure if the same) + E2 = 6.62
IDL + E2 = flutuate 106-168

Engine running w/ throttle open:

VC (VCC, not sure if the same) + E2 = 6.62
IDL + E2 = OL

 

anyone please.....

 

Unplug the throttle position sensor and see if it still does it. If it doesn't, that's the problem.

If it does, put a jumper on terminals B & FP in the diagnostics port and see if it still does it:



Edit - I should have mentioned this earlier, but have you checked for vacuum leaks?

 

[QUOTE=BMcEL;51819605]Unplug the throttle position sensor and see if it still does it. If it doesn't, that's the problem.

If it does, put a jumper on terminals B & FP in the diagnostics port and see if it still does it....

Did i miss something????

There are no leaks...

 

I don't know...did you try what I suggested above?

And how did you check for vacuum leaks? A vacuum leak is an air leak so you won't be able to see it.

 

Okay, i use a spray bottle and spray all vaccume lines, no bubbles found or leaks. I end change out another throttle body and it ran a little better....im determine its the ecu if thats not it, then im confuse....

 

Probably a 98% chance it is NOT your ECU, not sure why you keep going back to that. Try the two things I posted above and let me know if either one fixes it.

 

Im sorry, im all confuse, if it does what? Im assuming engine running then unplug sensor....??? Please clarify...

 

Very simple.

Step 1: Unplug the throttle position sensor and go for a drive. If this fixes the problem, your TPS is causing it. If unplugging the TPS does not fix the problem, continue to step 2.

Step 2: Put a piece of wire or paper clip between terminals B & FP in the diagnostics port (same one you used above to pull codes). If this fixes the problem, there are a few different things that could be causing the problem.

Start with steps 1 & 2 and we'll go from there.

 

Sorry for not understanding, im just frustrated... I'll try that once i get the chance. Thanks for your help so far.

 

No need for apologies...happy to help.

 

it happens when youre on the brakes? disconnect the brake vacuum line from the intake and plug the hole on the intake. see what happens

 

1. Unplug and ran on jacks. Idle a little off but seems to be off and stalls a little but goes..

2. Does not help at all