I'm wondering if it's just my carb idle settings.... I would like to replace it with a weber but then I'll have to remove the smog cap and I don't like to worry about getting caught.

 

I forgot I am talking to "da interwebs" and should be more exact most of the time.

Don't light the torch! yeah use what you have, unless it's a tiny micro torch you should have any problem IMO. Personally I'll spray just about anything, but I've gotten the evil eye for some choices *coughbrakecleancough*

For the record, who did your machine work?

i don't build engines for a living, but I'm willing to wager that was way to much.

Block warp, 0.002
Head warp, 0.0059

So the combined total is less than what was removed from just your head! If that number is accurate.

 

You have a few options now. Bring the cam distance back to OEM, with a new head or thicker head gasket. Bring the valve timing back to OEM, degree the cam with an adjustable cam gear. Or retard the ignition, and accept that the consequences.

Having the advanced valve/cam is going to cost you some top end but you will have more torque sooner, can you live with that?

 

You have some large cajones spraying brake cleaner! When I first bought my welder I read a article about a guy that used brake cleaner to prep something to weld and he almost died!
I don't remember the exact amount he shaved but he said it was very little. That was this last September probably so I'm sure he won't remember. Oh well.
That probably has something to do with the 180psi compression readings I got huh

 

I'd be happier with the sooner torque since I don't drive this truck fast when I did drive it. I shift on average @ 3k rpm.

Do you tthink this can be causing my high idle?
I'm going home in a little bit and I'll check for the original distributor. Man I hope I have it still.
When I first installed this one, it didn't run unless I held down the gas pedal a little and after adjusting the idle screw I got it running but the idle was much higher if I remember correctly.
Now that I replaced my fuel filter and it's not running lean anymore it's even higher. It's probably the damn distributor for all I know lol!
I don't wanna buy a new one ha ha ha
You guys know a place I can buy one and see if it fixes my issue then return it if it doesn't?

 

The Web page is down but here's a description of what happened
http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/20...t-get-careless

 

I couldn't find it for a minute but I do still have the original distributor!
I'm going to swap the good vacuum advance on my current distributor to my original distributor and give that one a try. Fingers crossed.
Maybe when the sun comes up a little and defrost my truck. It's 35 degrees outside right now

 

I've gave myself zinc poisoning before I knew any better, now I'm going to have to check over my warning label my eye went straight to "phosphene" on that label before I could start reading anything else.
​​​​​​Ignorance is bliss they say, right up till it kills you. Will have to take my own advise and switch to gas I reckon. Thank you sir!

​​​at eight thousandths it's borderline based on the above spec. Figuring how much that moves the cam is too much math for me this early.

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was it running on the old distributor after the head work? Don't forget to verify that cam mark. If it was put on with the indicator straight up its off valve time in the other directions

 

Yeah man, be careful. I don't think your welding with brake cleaner as a cleaning tool but it messes that poor guy up. On that guys site he said that he was already welding when he noticed a small puddle of brake fluid that didn't evaporate yet and suddenly the heat from the weld near the puddle became a small puff of smoke and he was TKO.

Well I just swapped the distributors with the good vacuum advance on my original distributor and no luck
Strangely I did have a constant engine misfire until the engine began to warm up and the temperature Guage pegged out on hot as soon as I turned the key to the on position.
This is the first time I've started my truck at this outside temp (mid 30's) and the temp Guage usually works flawlessly.