Hi all,

I'm ready to pull my 3VZE V6 with 340H auto/transfer case in my '94 4runner 4x4 this weekend. I would really like to keep the two together when pulling them, so I can remove the trans from the motor on the shop floor, rather than in the truck. I have the air plenum and injection setup off and all the engine pulleys/accessories. The radiator is out but I left the condenser in for now.

Is is possible to get clearance to pull the motor/trans combo out as one? Any info appreciated... thanks.

 

Even if it is, seems like that would be a real b!tch. It's real heavy. Why not yank it from underneath? With a transmission jack and extra hands, it's not that big a deal. Getting it back together is the real chore. (Did I just answer my own question?)

 

I dont think you would have the room to pull it all in one assy. When I worked at a dealership (non Toyota) we would have to pull the T-case out and were able to remove the motor/transmission, but it was a VERY tight fit(and this was full size trucks). I would agree with Thook, I can have my transmission(5speed) and tcase out in about an hour with just a floor jack and 1 person helping. That would be alot easier than trying to fit all that thru the super tight engine bay.

 

As a Toyota dismantler for the last 6 years, I can say for 100% that it is possible...however you will need to lower the back side of the diff down by removing the two longer bolts. Other wise the case wont clear the diff. You will also have to fight to get the down pipe off, as it wont come out with that attached.

Since the automatics are built on/build off cases, you cannot simply unbolt them. Its really a toss up as to whats easier. In dismantling, its much esier to pull as an assembly becuase the steps I listed have to be done anyways. Fo the at home mechanic, I would just leave the tranny bolted in and undo it from the engine in the truck.

 

Best way to unbolt the bellhousing from the engine: you'll need 1/2" drive impact wrench (the stronger the better), 36" extension (1 peice is best), a 17mm flex socket and a flashlight. You can get away with a u-joint type flex socket if you wrap tape around it to stiffen it but it they're much weaker than the ball joint type. Top bolts- put the socket on the extension and feed it over the t-case from the drivers side onto the bolt heads- don't put the impact on the extension until it's time to zap it. You will have to look at the driver side top bolt from the LH rear of the T-case, to see the RH top bolt look up from the rh side of the bellhousing while feeding the extension+socket on from the driver side of the t-case. The socket will jump off if you don't put a lot of pressure on it to hold it on when you hit it with the impact, even then it still probably will. Just be patient and keep trying.
The side bolts are much easier and self explantory, but I do recommend using the same tool rig to get them off. After that it's just remove the lower braces, lower cover, TC bolts, and starter. Hope this helps, I see alot of ppl on here comment on how difficult the top bellhousing bolts are to remove. I can see how they would be frustrating for the weekend mechanic, as the method to get them off is kind of unorthodox.

 

SoCalWheeler71 - getting to the top tranny bellhousing bolts is assuming I take the exhaust crossover pipe off, right? ... or can I get the bolts off via your method with the crossover on?

 

You can get to the bolts with the crossover on, but you may want to loosen it up a bit for easy access.

 

picture proof

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...Image00019.jpg

 

I thought Katie's truck was a 2 wheel drive (no transfer case)?

 

That 4runner is 2wd, however, I 100% guarantee you that I could get the tcase out with it if I wanted to and that is in fact how I would do it. You have to air your tires all the way down and your hoist needs to be tall enough(mine goes to 98 1/2" at the top end) -

You will want a person helping you so you can get the final 2 inches of tcase over the front radiator support.

When you pull the engine hoist back, keep everything as tight to the firewall as you can and then have your helper lift the tail end over the support. FYI you will have to have a load leveler if that is not obvious

I GUARANTEE you that it can be done - You can see in the pic posted above that there is plenty of room.

 

also put a piece of plywood against your condenser or you will hit it with the crank pulley

 

pulling the A340H is not easy. Since it is a tranny/x-case all in one and you cannot seperate them, it is extremely heavy and weight is not even at all. it absolutely sucks pulling that turd

 

I see. Welp, being as that I've never pulled one before I guess I wouldn't really know, would I? I'll shut up now.

 

Well, pulled the motor/trans combo last night. Not an easy job... 2 people are mandatory - one working the lift and the other under the truck working the jack and generally pushing/pulling the transfer case to fit through the firewall. Once we dropped the trans x-member and lowered the trans down a little with the jack, I was able to get on top of the trans and disconnect all the connectors (must be at least 6 of them). We had to take the front tires off and lower the rotors down on blocks of wood so we had enough lift height to clear the rad support. Had to take the transfer case oil cooler off the frame rail as well because it was in the way. Biggest hurdle was getting the transfer case over the front top diff mount. We basically had to try and twist the whole engine/trans combo on the hoist while popping it over the diff mount! We beat up the trans tunnel a little bit in the process, no big deal. I will definitely put the transmission/t-case in separately from the motor when it all goes back!

 

It is easier to pull than to put back in again... I did it by myself (pulled and put back in) but it took me an hour and a come-along to angle it out properly... would be a lot easier if you have a lift (even just a 1" BL would help)...