build, bitching and advice for first timers like me
09-13-2013, 11:59 AM
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build, bitching and advice for first timers like me
This is my story to save some headaches for others. First off, don't buy from Mexicans or rednecks (of which I might be...) Previous owner sold when totally destroyed as in my 92 2wd or rednecks screwed it all up as in my 4runner. I wish I had been told this when i bought these. Anyways, buy a truck already built in good shape for $5 or $6k (at least is so cal) as there are tons of them available. I've got over 10k in my runner and it still isn't up to par with what i could have bought. Used to think the jeeps where gay when they had snorkels, until I drowned my truck in the same spot i pulled out a wrangler the week before. if playing in water, GET ONE.
People on here are right as to building a truck. LOCKERS AND GEARS, THEN ARMOUR, THEN TIRES, THEN SUSPENSION. Just learning my lesson on the armour...
For offroading when rebuilding engine, go for torque, down low where it matters. I have the engine builder street rv head, lc street performer cam and doug thorley tri-y header. definite power band from 3500 to 5000 and nothing below 2500. The later two came with the truck, I installed. should have gone long tube headers and torquer cam. idk about head. Really should have swapped to newer motor.
Front diff- used toyota 4.56 gears put on used trutrac- simply amazing. No noise, just kicks ass.
Rear diff- USE A GOOD SHOP OR BE A RETARD LIKE ME.
Build 1- bought used toyota 4.56 on detroit in v6 housing. felt like to much play compared to 300k stock 4.10 was replacing. PO had spun a carrier bearing. I ordered yukon grizzly. YES I BROKE IT IN RIGHT. went back after a week before broken in and several times after. Was rebuilt a month later.
Build 2- Shop slapped on Us Gear, I paid parts and free labor. Hard plating came off, they say since carrier wobbled... I said sounds resonable.
Build 3- 2 weeks later said I hear a whine, continued to go back and bitch. several months later free yukon gears and parts and labor.
Think its going out again after 6 months and 3500 miles. Could be harmonics. I say buy a built diff from marlin or somebody with a good reputation.
EVEN THOUGH YOUR RUNNING 31'S GO WITH 4.88'S CAUSE YOUR GOING TO GO 33'S. Or like me, 33's to cheaper 31's back to 33's when I can afford it.
The smitty built crap that came on it is fo sho, and bend and crush when you offroad. i expected that but never actually thought i would bend it until I sold it all and put on real sliders and bumpers.
Oh yea, everone asks about the grizzly, first rig, never had a detriot (in the truck at least) Quiet, was nice and tight and wasn't noticeable. After the two r. & p. failures it is much harsher. Still quiet, no popping. but like when pulling into parking lot and don't go from 2nd to 1st and turn it bucks the truck like a bull. If you down shiift and ease the gas it might chirp. If tires are running full psi then slight chirps, if didn't air back up then will pivot on inside tire onroad in tight turns. basically coast through turns and brake before and gas after until you learn its limits for gas and brake. Has unloaded several times in corners (its a fast land yacht) causing the rear to slide out maybe a foot or so but was going faster than you should corner an suv anyways.
Wish you all had posted this stuff for me a yr ago. But to be fair you guys have saved me on many occasions so thank you. Oh, just because you have a tool box with everything in your truck doesn't mean jack, needs to have everything and be tailored to your rig. me and five other trucks didn't have the right spark plug socket for my truck... and to the blue 4runner with SAS in apple valley that had a woman with bunch of kids and led me out of the desert at night thank you. I drove for about 10 miles on three 33's, once again, had everything, except the bar to lower the spare.
People on here are right as to building a truck. LOCKERS AND GEARS, THEN ARMOUR, THEN TIRES, THEN SUSPENSION. Just learning my lesson on the armour...
For offroading when rebuilding engine, go for torque, down low where it matters. I have the engine builder street rv head, lc street performer cam and doug thorley tri-y header. definite power band from 3500 to 5000 and nothing below 2500. The later two came with the truck, I installed. should have gone long tube headers and torquer cam. idk about head. Really should have swapped to newer motor.Front diff- used toyota 4.56 gears put on used trutrac- simply amazing. No noise, just kicks ass.
Rear diff- USE A GOOD SHOP OR BE A RETARD LIKE ME.
Build 1- bought used toyota 4.56 on detroit in v6 housing. felt like to much play compared to 300k stock 4.10 was replacing. PO had spun a carrier bearing. I ordered yukon grizzly. YES I BROKE IT IN RIGHT. went back after a week before broken in and several times after. Was rebuilt a month later.
Build 2- Shop slapped on Us Gear, I paid parts and free labor. Hard plating came off, they say since carrier wobbled... I said sounds resonable.
Build 3- 2 weeks later said I hear a whine, continued to go back and bitch. several months later free yukon gears and parts and labor.
Think its going out again after 6 months and 3500 miles. Could be harmonics. I say buy a built diff from marlin or somebody with a good reputation.
EVEN THOUGH YOUR RUNNING 31'S GO WITH 4.88'S CAUSE YOUR GOING TO GO 33'S. Or like me, 33's to cheaper 31's back to 33's when I can afford it.
The smitty built crap that came on it is fo sho, and bend and crush when you offroad. i expected that but never actually thought i would bend it until I sold it all and put on real sliders and bumpers.
Oh yea, everone asks about the grizzly, first rig, never had a detriot (in the truck at least) Quiet, was nice and tight and wasn't noticeable. After the two r. & p. failures it is much harsher. Still quiet, no popping. but like when pulling into parking lot and don't go from 2nd to 1st and turn it bucks the truck like a bull. If you down shiift and ease the gas it might chirp. If tires are running full psi then slight chirps, if didn't air back up then will pivot on inside tire onroad in tight turns. basically coast through turns and brake before and gas after until you learn its limits for gas and brake. Has unloaded several times in corners (its a fast land yacht) causing the rear to slide out maybe a foot or so but was going faster than you should corner an suv anyways.
Wish you all had posted this stuff for me a yr ago. But to be fair you guys have saved me on many occasions so thank you. Oh, just because you have a tool box with everything in your truck doesn't mean jack, needs to have everything and be tailored to your rig. me and five other trucks didn't have the right spark plug socket for my truck... and to the blue 4runner with SAS in apple valley that had a woman with bunch of kids and led me out of the desert at night thank you. I drove for about 10 miles on three 33's, once again, had everything, except the bar to lower the spare.
Last edited by dropzone; 09-18-2013 at 08:54 PM.
09-13-2013, 12:17 PM
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Sensors- I replaced alot of bad sensors on my toyotas. VERY PICKY, use only ngk or denso 02 sensors, even the coolant temp from napa, $20, had to be replaced with a toyo one for $85 from the dealer. some of these new sensors caused me to fail smog several times. Always buy online if you can to save tons, Especially with a BMW, Learned NAPA charges shipping on parts with that baby, everything was ordered, only once from CA.
Catalytic converters- unless your not using stock efi, they need em. And don't go cheap like I did. Instant power loss, replaced with correct one for truck, was about a third bigger(instant power gain). And those that say a bigger cat causes more back pressure are fools, more holes to travel through means less restriction.
Just my 22 years experience and $.01 since I'm too broke to offer $.02
Catalytic converters- unless your not using stock efi, they need em. And don't go cheap like I did. Instant power loss, replaced with correct one for truck, was about a third bigger(instant power gain). And those that say a bigger cat causes more back pressure are fools, more holes to travel through means less restriction.
Just my 22 years experience and $.01 since I'm too broke to offer $.02
09-13-2013, 01:09 PM
#7
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And I'm a redneck retard...
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09-14-2013, 10:29 AM
#9
is this a redneck thread or an advice thread? lol
decide what your goals are from the beginning, or you'll end up redoing the same things over and over... for instance:
1) tire size... with the proper lift and axle location, you can probably fit 35's by pounding the fender seam back, but if you are going 37's or bigger, you might have to cut out those lower fender corners, or move the axle so far forward that you'll have to cut into the body core support to fit the steering box.
2) of course with big tires, you'll have to plate the frame under the steering box, so if you plate for 35's, it probably won't be plated far forward enough to move the box into the core support area... if you are plating for the first time, be realistic about what size of tire you want to run, the axle location, and plate accordingly.
3) if you aren't plated far forward enough, and you move the axle forward radically, you'll have to run a short steering arm, I used the Sky arm, which cost $150(ack!)... the turning radius of the truck is not good at all with a short arm, but that's not all the fault of the short arm.
4) Toyota front axle housings are weak sauce... people reinforce 'em, and if you do that right the heat from welding won't bend the housing, but there isn't any easy way to reinforce the spring mount areas, so they bend there... even with the more desirable '84-'85(?) housing, that has the factory lower support going all the way under the spring mount, the short side is still not reinforced, and it'll bend.
4) so you have to be realistic about your goals... step up to the trail gear housing from the beginning, however, it can't be rotated, so you'll want a high pinion third... or get a diamond/ruff housing, rotated to your spec, and you can re-use the geared third that you already have.
5) those housings can be done with the longer spring mounts, that allow you to move 'em forward that last inch or so, for the 37's.
all of the above means that it's difficult to do things incrementally, try and plan it out from the beginning.
decide what your goals are from the beginning, or you'll end up redoing the same things over and over... for instance:
1) tire size... with the proper lift and axle location, you can probably fit 35's by pounding the fender seam back, but if you are going 37's or bigger, you might have to cut out those lower fender corners, or move the axle so far forward that you'll have to cut into the body core support to fit the steering box.
2) of course with big tires, you'll have to plate the frame under the steering box, so if you plate for 35's, it probably won't be plated far forward enough to move the box into the core support area... if you are plating for the first time, be realistic about what size of tire you want to run, the axle location, and plate accordingly.
3) if you aren't plated far forward enough, and you move the axle forward radically, you'll have to run a short steering arm, I used the Sky arm, which cost $150(ack!)... the turning radius of the truck is not good at all with a short arm, but that's not all the fault of the short arm.
4) Toyota front axle housings are weak sauce... people reinforce 'em, and if you do that right the heat from welding won't bend the housing, but there isn't any easy way to reinforce the spring mount areas, so they bend there... even with the more desirable '84-'85(?) housing, that has the factory lower support going all the way under the spring mount, the short side is still not reinforced, and it'll bend.
4) so you have to be realistic about your goals... step up to the trail gear housing from the beginning, however, it can't be rotated, so you'll want a high pinion third... or get a diamond/ruff housing, rotated to your spec, and you can re-use the geared third that you already have.
5) those housings can be done with the longer spring mounts, that allow you to move 'em forward that last inch or so, for the 37's.
all of the above means that it's difficult to do things incrementally, try and plan it out from the beginning.
Last edited by osv; 09-14-2013 at 10:31 AM.
09-17-2013, 02:42 PM
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Sorry but this was my first time, I might have posted this in the wrong section. This isn't a bashing thread, just my own personal experience and sort of grouping together several things from many threads of which I have read on here or other sites. I said my piece as I wanted to and I don't think I repeated a single thing and while not organized achieved all of my intended goals. Sorry if I offended anyone (while I most likely have some Mexican in me and my Mexican and Hispanic friends agree with my car buying statement and if anyone is a redneck I think having had 8 cars at once with only one running qualifies me and having gone through over 15 cars in 5 years of driving) Take a joke. As for 93Xtra-Cab I may do many foolish things but I am most definitely not a fool. From what I wrote the only really foolish thing I can pick out is buying the 4runner I did seeing as the 92 was the best and favorite car I've ever owned.
The only thing I can say good for OSV is the post he put up mentioned the reinforcing the steering box. Good for even a stock truck seeing as how mine was broken loose when I bought it and had to reweld the support bracket.
09-17-2013, 02:54 PM
#11
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This is my story to save some headaches for others. First off, don't buy from Mexicans or rednecks (of which I might be...) Mexicans only sell when totally destroyed as in my 92 2wd or rednecks ˟˟˟˟ed it all up as in my 4runner. I wish I had been told this when i bought these. Anyways, buy a truck already built in good shape for $5 or $6k (at least is so cal) as there are tons of them available. I've got over 10k in my runner and it still isn't up to par with what i could have bought. Used to think the jeeps where gay when they had snorkels, until I drowned my truck in the same spot i pulled out a wrangler the week before. if playing in water, GET ONE.
People on here are right as to building a truck. LOCKERS AND GEARS, THEN ARMOUR, THEN TIRES, THEN SUSPENSION. Just learning my lesson on the armour... For offroading when rebuilding engine, go for torque, down low where it matters. I have the engine builder street rv head, lc street performer cam and doug thorley tri-y header. definite power band from 3500 to 5000 and nothing below 2500. The later two came with the truck, I installed. should have gone long tube headers and torquer cam. idk about head. Really should have swapped to newer motor.
Front diff- used toyota 4.56 gears put on used trutrac- simply amazing. No noise, just kicks ass.
Rear diff- USE A GOOD SHOP OR BE A RETARD LIKE ME.
Build 1- bought used toyota 4.56 on detroit in v6 housing. felt like to much play compared to 300k stock 4.10 was replacing. PO had spun a carrier bearing. I ordered yukon grizzly. YES I BROKE IT IN RIGHT. went back after a week before broken in and several times after. Was rebuilt a month later.
Build 2- Shop slapped on Us Gear, I paid parts and free labor. Hard plating came off, they say since carrier wobbled... I said sounds resonable.
Build 3- 2 weeks later said I hear a whine, continued to go back and bitch. several months later free yukon gears and parts and labor.
Think its going out again after 6 months and 3500 miles. Could be harmonics. I say buy a built diff from marlin or somebody with a good reputation.
EVEN THOUGH YOUR RUNNING 31'S GO WITH 4.88'S CAUSE YOUR GOING TO GO 33'S. Or like me, 33's to cheaper 31's back to 33's when I can afford it.
The smitty built crap that came on it is fo sho, and bend and crush when you offroad. i expected that but never actually thought i would bend it until I sold it all and put on real sliders and bumpers.
Oh yea, everone asks about the grizzly, first rig, never had a detriot (in the truck at least) Quiet, was nice and tight and wasn't noticeable. After the two r. & p. failures it is much harsher. Still quiet, no popping. but like when pulling into parking lot and don't go from 2nd to 1st and turn it bucks the truck like a bull. If you down shiift and ease the gas it might chirp. If tires are running full psi then slight chirps, if didn't air back up then will pivot on inside tire onroad in tight turns. basically coast through turns and brake before and gas after until you learn its limits for gas and brake. Has unloaded several times in corners (its a fast land yacht) causing the rear to slide out maybe a foot or so but was going faster than you should corner an suv anyways.
Wish you all had posted this stuff for me a yr ago. But to be fair you guys have saved me on many occasions so thank you. Oh, just because you have a tool box with everything in your truck doesn't mean jack, needs to have everything and be tailored to your rig. me and five other trucks didn't have the right spark plug socket for my truck... and to the blue 4runner with SAS in apple valley that had a woman with bunch of kids and led me out of the desert at night thank you. I drove for about 10 miles on three 33's, once again, had everything, except the bar to lower the spare.
People on here are right as to building a truck. LOCKERS AND GEARS, THEN ARMOUR, THEN TIRES, THEN SUSPENSION. Just learning my lesson on the armour...
For offroading when rebuilding engine, go for torque, down low where it matters. I have the engine builder street rv head, lc street performer cam and doug thorley tri-y header. definite power band from 3500 to 5000 and nothing below 2500. The later two came with the truck, I installed. should have gone long tube headers and torquer cam. idk about head. Really should have swapped to newer motor.Front diff- used toyota 4.56 gears put on used trutrac- simply amazing. No noise, just kicks ass.
Rear diff- USE A GOOD SHOP OR BE A RETARD LIKE ME.
Build 1- bought used toyota 4.56 on detroit in v6 housing. felt like to much play compared to 300k stock 4.10 was replacing. PO had spun a carrier bearing. I ordered yukon grizzly. YES I BROKE IT IN RIGHT. went back after a week before broken in and several times after. Was rebuilt a month later.
Build 2- Shop slapped on Us Gear, I paid parts and free labor. Hard plating came off, they say since carrier wobbled... I said sounds resonable.
Build 3- 2 weeks later said I hear a whine, continued to go back and bitch. several months later free yukon gears and parts and labor.
Think its going out again after 6 months and 3500 miles. Could be harmonics. I say buy a built diff from marlin or somebody with a good reputation.
EVEN THOUGH YOUR RUNNING 31'S GO WITH 4.88'S CAUSE YOUR GOING TO GO 33'S. Or like me, 33's to cheaper 31's back to 33's when I can afford it.
The smitty built crap that came on it is fo sho, and bend and crush when you offroad. i expected that but never actually thought i would bend it until I sold it all and put on real sliders and bumpers.
Oh yea, everone asks about the grizzly, first rig, never had a detriot (in the truck at least) Quiet, was nice and tight and wasn't noticeable. After the two r. & p. failures it is much harsher. Still quiet, no popping. but like when pulling into parking lot and don't go from 2nd to 1st and turn it bucks the truck like a bull. If you down shiift and ease the gas it might chirp. If tires are running full psi then slight chirps, if didn't air back up then will pivot on inside tire onroad in tight turns. basically coast through turns and brake before and gas after until you learn its limits for gas and brake. Has unloaded several times in corners (its a fast land yacht) causing the rear to slide out maybe a foot or so but was going faster than you should corner an suv anyways.
Wish you all had posted this stuff for me a yr ago. But to be fair you guys have saved me on many occasions so thank you. Oh, just because you have a tool box with everything in your truck doesn't mean jack, needs to have everything and be tailored to your rig. me and five other trucks didn't have the right spark plug socket for my truck... and to the blue 4runner with SAS in apple valley that had a woman with bunch of kids and led me out of the desert at night thank you. I drove for about 10 miles on three 33's, once again, had everything, except the bar to lower the spare.
09-17-2013, 04:26 PM
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So I guess I kind of asked for it with my response but seriously? Am I not allowed to share what I did? Was the information really that worthless? Especially to someone new to off road? Of course I have a brain, everyone one does, even people on life support. Since I'm so clueless, can you share your opinion on how to build a truck for beginners and your experiences doing so. Since mine is so flawed and screwed up, please make me look like a complete fool for doing the mods I did compared to your mods. Then go further with how to save some money doing it. Show me your superiority and how great you are because I would love to hear it.
Was I wrong thinking this is a forum to
1) help others
2) share knowledge
If I wasn't supposed to post my experiences my bad, I've read plenty of others stories on here besides my own.
Was I wrong thinking this is a forum to
1) help others
2) share knowledge
If I wasn't supposed to post my experiences my bad, I've read plenty of others stories on here besides my own.
09-17-2013, 04:32 PM
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I mean sure, I didn't share a single shred of actual technical know how and write-ups and how to's but was the information really that bad? Not everyone is a genius and has been an innovator designing stuff for the industry with 50+ yrs experience to back them up. Should no new people or no-bodys like myself say a single word on here since your all gods? Should there be yota tech for you and the old members and a new site for only newbs to talk to newbs? Humble me.
09-17-2013, 04:54 PM
#15
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Some people do nothing but complain and like to tell everyone about it and some people learn from their mistakes. You clearly are the former. Great, the only thing you've demonstrated so far is you have an opinion, a self pity opinion with obliviousness stereotypes.
I think I will start a thread that does nothing except complain, blame everyone else for my problems, ramble, complain, and ramble some more.
I think I will start a thread that does nothing except complain, blame everyone else for my problems, ramble, complain, and ramble some more.
09-17-2013, 07:02 PM
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Some people do nothing but complain and like to tell everyone about it and some people learn from their mistakes. You clearly are the former. Great, the only thing you've demonstrated so far is you have an opinion, a self pity opinion with obliviousness stereotypes.
I think I will start a thread that does nothing except complain, blame everyone else for my problems, ramble, complain, and ramble some more.
I think I will start a thread that does nothing except complain, blame everyone else for my problems, ramble, complain, and ramble some more.
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