so do you think if i took those guide bolts out of my old engine that didn't have any timing chain problems i would be all good. or would i be better off using the bolts that came with my long block and maybe use a file and carefully file them down?

 

well.. the reason we shave those bolts is sort of extra safe just in case. It is not likely there is going to be an issue with that guide. I would do my best to make absolutely sure what is making that sound.
We do it because he have seen it happen from time to time. We also do it on a very elaborate lathe that takes off just the right amount. I wouldn't file them.
You may have to pull the front of the motor off again and do a thorough inspection.
If you run into issues give me a pm and maybe I can help.

 

alright i wont be able to do much with it till this weekend when i can tear it all apart. i'm pretty sure that its timing chain related but the wierd thing was i just couldn't see any evidence of anything going wrong in there.

 

Unfortuneatley sometimes you can't see until it is apart.

 

You sure you have your cam sprocket in right???
Did you install it with the little dimple or dot on the outside where you can see it??? I can't quite tell by that pic.
I think that looks right. If that was the problem and the chain is sitting too far back it will hit the guides and make all kinds of chatter in addition to a couple other bad scenarios. I actually don't know what would happen if that was reversed. Never seen it happen.
That little dimple to the left. That should be facing you.

 

ya i remember seeing the dimple especially when i set the timing cause thats one of the timing marks right?

 

yes good.. Initially it is a timing mark when you set the motor up. Good, you can eliminate that from your list of things.

 

when you ran into the trucks at your shop making that noise and you did that work to those bolts did that fix the problem by only doing that? also when those same trucks cam in did the owners say if it was a noise that developed or was there from the start?

 

The one I saw was out of the truck. A guy brought it in after it had blew out a rod bearing. When I was tearing it down I noticed the guide was really loose but the bolts were tight to spec. I showed it to the owner and that is when he told me why and what was going on. He said he had seen a few come in the shop like that still in the truck. But I have yet to see one come in in the truck.
We were building a motor this morning and I was watching the guides go in and we started to talk about that guide and the potential problems. I told him I saw your problem on here and he said "it's a good chance that is his issue what you describe."

 

cool man i'll definatly check it out. do you know if a timing chain kitt comes with new bolts? doubtful right? or does anyone know if engine builder includes them in his kits?

 

Ours come with the steel rail guide bolts only not the 2 shaft bolts for the guide on the tensioner side. PCI are what we use.

 

what's PCI a brand?

 

PCI is the brand name. We use them because they have the steel rail guides and we have had VERY few problems with them. I have used PCI in all four of my Yota's over the years and never had a problem with ANY of them. One rig I put 425,000 miles and did the timing chain at 140,00 and then again at 300,000 just as routine maintinence and both times I did it the timing components looked great. The rig finally died at 425,000 from a spun rod bearing.
I am building a motor for my 82 at the shop right now and it will be PCI for sure.

 

This thread makes me sad.

1: OEM Toyota parts would never need to be ground down, adjusted, folded, torn, or messed with. They simply work !!!

2: I just don't agree with selling an engine which is only partially put together. What a recipe for disaster like this thread. It also makes a great scape goat for warranty issues. Way to pass the buck.


Have you contacted Oregon Engine Rebuilders to ask them what they think could be wrong?

?

 

Really? Never? Never ever? Wow!
I suspect you are you referring
to OEM via the Toyota dealer? If so I would mostly agree.


How many of us can afford the dealer?

 

ya and as other people have found they instantly put the blame on me without even hearing the whole story.

 

For a "do it yourselfer" The question really should be

"Can I afford to do this twice or three times ?!!!"


The dealer is Very reasonable on most common parts like belts, hoses, T-chains, tune up, etc.....

Also If a person looks or asks there are ways to get Factory OEM parts from other places than Toyota at a discount. Altrom is one. Any NAPA can order from Altrom because Napa recently purchased Altrom. The parts are direct from the original manufacturer in Japan.

As for a shop grinding stuff to make it work........ Well to each their own I guess. But not for my shop. Even the Rock stuff doesn't need any grinding.

I can't really understand defending the need to grind or mess with parts to make them work. IF they can't engineer the part right what's to say it's engineered right in other aspects ie durability or longevity? Makes me raise an eyebrow.

!

 

Parts should never have to be modified to work, especially given the claims on the packaging. "Oem quality" and "Made to exacting manufacturers specs" dot the boxes of every aftermarket part ever made, yet the quality varies wildly. What is the cost difference between OEM guides and aftermarket guides anyways?

Thinking outloud here, but I wonder what cost to take an engine back apart (just laborwise) would be, OR machining the bolts down, as opposed to buying OEM guides that fit right the first time so that extra time/cost isn't accrued?

 

Holy Crap... watch the header blaze as the engine blips!!! idle is WAY high... are you running hot? or rather WHEN are you running hot? i have the same POS OER superstock... just put a warranty repair back in last week.... check throttle linkage, idle speed, and airfuel mix

 

the idle is high because the engine was just started for the video it is 35 degrees outside. It's not running hot at all, i dont know whats up with that bright light at the bottom of the manifold.