andlours

iTrader: (1)

Well, a few days ago, my brakes wire down really low and started to grind one if my rotors. I figured this would be a good time to do a little upgrade. I bought calipers and rotors to fit a 95 v6 4Runner. I got everything installed, as well as an fj80 master cylinder. My only problem is, I am getting no response from my front brakes. I bleed both of the rear lines and tried to bleed the front lines, but almost no fluid came out of the line connection and none came out of the bleeder valve. I don't know whether I should just try to bleed it more or if it's another problem. I'm about just to give up and go to Midas. I don't want to do that though. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

250000_yota

First off, did you bench bleed the master cylinder? There is probably a good chance that you have a air bubble in the master that isn't allowing fluid flow to the front.

Second, I would also recommend a vacuum bleeder. Harbor freight has a decent one for light duty use like yourself.

Also, if you do decide to give in and let someone help, Longmont isn't that far north of Denver, and I work for the. Meineke on the south end of town...

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Bleed the master.

andlours

iTrader: (1)

How do I bench bleed the master? Also, I encountered the same problem even before I installed the new master, if that makes any difference. 250000 yota, im in kind of a hurry to get this done. If I were to let you do it, how much would it cost and could it be finished before Tuesday?

250000_yota

To bench bleed a master isn't too difficult. With it on the truck, disconnect the line closest to the base. Hold your finger over the open port. Have someone push the brake pedal down. Release the pressure, while keeping the pedal down. Cover the port again, and have the person release the pedal. Repeat this a few times, then move on to the furthest port from the base and repeat the previous steps. This is kind of a off base way to do it, but unless you have lines tha you can route the fluid back into the master cup, this will work. Then, reblead the rest of the system.

Just to make sure, are you also using the correct bleed procedure? Starting with the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front and finishing with the lspv.

By the way, bench bleeding should normally be done before you install the master on the vehicle. Just A word of advice if you have to replace a master again

As far as working on your truck personally, I work tomorrow and Monday and and I've got a pretty busy Sunday set up. If you can't handle it, call my shop. The company that owns my meineke owns a few others in Denver. We could get you in touch with the closest one and help you out from there.

303-485-5999

My real name is Russ btw

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Technically, the drivers rear brake is the farthest from the master.....

bone collector

fyi just make sure the bleeders are on top of the calipers....ask me how i know....

250000_yota

As bad as that sounds...I didn't even think of that.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I trust you went with all new brake parts !!

Did you kink or twist any of the hard lines installing the calipers??

Get dirt into any of the lines when installing??

xXbrutalXcoreXx

Also, make sure the bleeder valve itself isn't clogged with dirt or corrosion of any kind before bleeding.

shallwminded

make sure the bleeders are on top or it will ge impossible to get the air out of yhe calipers.if the bleeders are on the bottom then you have the right side cal on the left side and l on r side.hope it helps.kenny

angrybob

Nowhere above does it mention adding the matching bigger booster. If you are going to do v6 calipers and bigger m/c you will probably have to push the pedal pretty hard to get it to stop. The dual diaphragm booster is matched for the above components and should be part of your upgrade.

BTW - a good bone yard booster is $40 or so and is way better than a new reman'd version.

My $0.02

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, so I just caved and took it into the brake guys. I just had a ton of air in my line and they bled it all for me. The brakes work great now and they fixed my park brake for $20 bucks. I would've done it all myself, but I've gotta be driving out of town for work on Monday. Thanks for all the help guys!