Autozone sells rotors for $23 each. The steel plants in India are getting so efficient that it just doesn't make a lot of sense to re-turn a rotor (on new vehicles the manufacturers plan on this; the rotors are so thin you really CAN'T turn them). If you're a shop that does a lot of brake jobs you might be able to trade $23 for a part against using the machine you already have, but for folks like us you have to take into account your time driving it to the shop and back.

And what makes you so sure your bearings are perfect? They'd love a new coat of clean grease!

 

man ur a fool to put indian rotors on ur truck i would think of spending a extra $40_ and at least get chinese BRAKES ARE YOUR LIFE OR OTHERS LIFE

 

I ALWAYS replace the rotors. They're so cheap that it's pointless to turn them.

 

I've only used OEM Toyota rotors; two pair have lasted me over 230,000 miles so far....

 

Brembo rotors are well made and are cheap on tirerack. NAPA carries them too but for a fair amount more $$.

 

Don't worry about your bearings, they are super easy. I just did this last weekend on my pickup.

Take the front bearing out, you don't have to do anything with the race, take the old rotor of hub, put the new one on and put it all back together, slip the outter bearing in, torque it down to 40lbs, spin it 2 or 3 times and back it off to 15-20lbs, as long as they rotate freely and there is no play, you are fine.

I agree, the whole pre-load procedure isn't neccesary.

My rotors were $60. It does help to have a compressor and impact gun though.

 

As someone who has had a too-tight wheel bearing seize while I was driving 45 miles per hour on a corner, and who avoided rolling the car (a Triumph TR4) by the narrowest of margins, I do not have a cavalier attitude about properly preloading wheel bearings. Trust me, it IS possible to seize a bearing if it is too tight, since they tighten up when they get hot. And the bearing will be most likely to seize on a corner travelled at a high rate of speed. And trust me, in our trucks that will likely result in a high speed rollover. Have you seen pics of our trucks after they have rolled? The roof seems to wind up around the level of the dashboard.

So make very sure you get those bearings properly preloaded. It isn't difficult, and I agree it doesn't absolutely require a spring tension gauge, but it does require an accurate torque wrench (unless you've been packing bearings for years and can do it by feel). Follow the fsm torque specs exactly. For 4wd trucks & 4runners, that's an initial torque of the nut to 43 ft lbs, and then turn the hub 4-5 times clockwise, 4-5 times counter-clockwise, then a couple more times clockwise. Then back off the nut until it turns free by hand, then re-torque to 18 ft lbs. After that the fsm recommends using a spring tension gauge on one of the wheel studs to make sure it takes 6-12 lbs to start the hub turning. You can do as well doing this by hand - you want the hub to be firm, and to turn smoothly. You don't want it hard to start turning, nor too easy. It will loosen up a bit after driving it a few miles.

For torquing that nut you'll need a 54mm or 2 1/8" socket. Here's a good deal on one at amazon that has a 1/2" drive which is handier than the ones that have 3/4" drive:
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6612-Heavy...dp/B0002STRPO/

See the following post for help with cleaning and packing the bearings. As others have mentioned, it isn't difficult and can be kind of fun. Just be sure the bearings are torqued properly and your truck will be happy:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51204825

I agree with the experienced members here who recommended not bothering with trying to turn the rotors but rather replacing them.

EDIT: I notice the 93 online fsm omitted the front wheel bearing section. Here's the 4wd hub section from an fsm for a 95 4runner - the procedure & specs are the same as in my 89 truck fsm:
http://www.the-roo.com/4runner/Suspension/frontaxl.pdf

 

I know its been like a month since I've responded, but thanks for all the info guys!