I have a friend who needs help replacing her brake pads in front, and bleeding the brake system.

Someone was telling her she needs new brake fluid but I think that sounds like a shop trying to rip her off. Anyways..

Can somebody gimme the rundown on bleeding the brake system? Is it as easy as opening the bleed valve while someone pushes the brakes then closing it before they let go?

The brakes I can take all apart no problem. I just need to know since I've never worked on toyota's brakes, How exactly do you depress the caliper pistons? Is it like on some Chevy cars where it's got a little embossed plus that you twist until the piston backs down into the caliper?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

you dont have to crack any brake lines to swap pads just unbolt the caliper and spread it apart install new pads then put together! simple

 

I know I don't gotta open brake lines for the pads, but from what she's telling me, it sounds like theres air bubbles in the brake lines.

So the calipers just spread open and stay that way?

 

well if u no theres air in the lines then i would bleed them!
yes they stay open!

 

Here you go!
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...leedingbrakes/

 

The brake fluid is one of the most neglected items in most automobiles. The brake fluid attacts water, which causes corrosion in the system, and gets dirty from the seals in the system. The fluid should be changed every two years or so. It should always be clear, not black.

This only costs a few dollars, and can save you bigger trouble later.

 

I change my brake fluid every year with a home made pressure bleeder that I found on yotatech.

I like to hang out in the garage!

I change my oil every 3k miles, or whenever I get bored, usually the latter.
-Hank Hill

 

You cant put it any better than that. Change the pads and bleed the system according to the earlier post, you will be all set.

 

RL, RR, FL, FR, LSPV valve if its got it. Right is pass side and left is drivers side.

You start bleeding at the brake furthest from the master cyl and work your way up.

Use the 2 man method, it works the best period. Crack bleeder open with the box end of a 10mm wrench iirc, just enough till it flows. You need a small piece of tubing and a GLASS or METAL jar (plastic wont do imho) and fill it with a small amount of fluid, then you put the hose in. Have her pump the pedal 5-7x, then crack bleeder and get air out.

Reason for tube in brake fluid is just incase you suck anything up it will be more fluid..

Usually best to bleed each wheel 2x or so..

Very easy, just time consuming and messy.

 

Maybe I'm being a stickler, but the driver's side rear is actually the furthest away from master cylinder.....if you're accounting for the length of the brake line. It travels from the MC, to the front pass. side, to the pass. rear, then over the axle to the driver's rear.

And, you don't have to pull the caliper off. Just remove the pin retainer spring, pull the pins out, don't lose the rattle spring, and using a screwdriver....spread the pads away from the rotor a bit. That's all I ever do and they pull right out. This is on my 4rnr's, of course. I don't know if trucks are any different.

 

either way, the pads come out! its all preference. i just like to inspect the piston boots

 

Yea couldbe lines are further RR, RL, FL, FR. Either way it works..

 

True, true.....I'm just lazy.

And true again. I always started at the RL for years and it worked just fine. Then, I read some thread here a good while back stating what I said, so I just started doing it that way. I think it may have even improved my mileage!