Trick30

So i have a 92 pickup 3.0 4x4. Looming to do breaks all around. I have leaking wheel cylinders in the rear. (The reason im doing the breaks) i decided to just make everything like new again before the snow flys here in Michigan. When it comes to brake lines what do i do. There is just so much going on and thats alot of bending and spiraling and fittings and rubber lines going to metal lines. I thought it was going to be a little easier. Figured by a roll or 2 of copper line but looking at it now. It looks like im in for a bumpy ride. How do i go about this. Do i really have to buy all the seperate lines and fiting and rubber hose seperatly or can i buy the whole bulk set and just plug and play? Has anyone done this? Mind is just blown on where to even start!!
.... Thanks for the help everyone!!

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I replaced and made changes to my rear brake circuit last summer. Not bad at all, the copper-nickel lines is easy to work with. If you’re keeping stock setup you’ll need more than a 20’ roll. I prefer braided steel for soft lines and rig is lifted so no brained. Don’t know of any all included kits. I went to disc in rear with manual proportion valve so I did away with LSPV and return line from LSPV to front brake circuit. I had to change routing at parking yoke crossover as line is mounted to topside and couldn’t fully access with body on frame. Was a fun project.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have been making my own brake lines for years now.

It would be nice if the line could be bought in 100' rolls

Just source new nuts and a few rolls of copper nickle line make your flares

keep things clean secure the lines so things don`t rub metal to metal

It seems when these things need done I never have the braided steel lines so end up using rubber instead

Most times the LSPV is removed because it no longer works

4sk

just did mine n 93 got 3/16 copper /nickel and fittings i believe were 10mmx1 and a double flaring tool ran my new lines on outside of the frame and anchored them to the body worked great

Trick30

How much line is necessary to do everything. I see the conversion ilto disc is the rout alot of people take.. whays that process like? And when it comes to fittings how many are needed. My truck does have like a 4" lift so id imagine the previous owner had to extend the lines? As im looking at the setup for the front it seems chaotic. Metal lines going into rubber back to metal.back to rubber? Im not really sure what is necessary to have and what can be replace. Like when it comes to part of the line when its coiled a couple times? Thanks for.the input tho! Yall rock! Front passenger side.
" />Also front passenger side above caliper. Following the line that comes from the bottom of the photo is coming from caliper which is in the other photo exiting the photo on the right. It goes from rubber (in the previous photo) to a 2" section of metal line that goes back to rubber that you can see in this photo.
hope you can understand what im getting at.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

The picture of the right side with the 2” metal line between the soft lines is a bit sketch. Quick fix but not the correct fix. Might mean you need a little longer line or maybe previous owner just thought it did. Is front lift ball joint spacers? Don’t know of any 2” bracket lifts. If ball spacer I don’t think you will even need a longer brake line. Sounds like you got some research to do. I’d count out all connections. On the picture of right side junctions that is where the by-pass from LSPV feeds into front brake circuit. The 2 lines coming from rear are both coming from LSPV. I removed that on mine, cut off three way junction for front circuit, and tacked a 2 way one off a 2wd yota onto bracket.

Trick30

well my concern is when it comes to replacing the lines that lead into the lspv is is there a chance they will fail after being opened up? the parts guy at my shop is telling me to just leave them alone... but i realyy want to just replace all the lines so its not such a headache down the road.. and when you said its sketch do you mean that it likely to fail like that or leak? Another thing is that i didnt do the lift either. previous owner did. but i have some pics to show ya maybe it will help... pics coming soon. thanks again

Trick30

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Looks like a bracket lift. Lots of ppl run them. I don’t like the 2 soft lines joined with a hard line for front brakes and excess looks like its zip tied to keep out of way. That’s why I don’t like it. No removing lines from LSPV will not “ruin” them; sounds like parts guy is thinking of a bubble flare on European cars. Are your hard lines rusted or leaking? I can’t see much of them. You might wanna inspect existing hard line thoroughly and decide if replacing them is the route you wanna go. After a good inspection you can take each line loose and blow it out with compressed air. Just make sure both end of line are disconnected so any trash exits system. Find extended soft lines and replace them. And wheel cylinders too. I had gas Tank dropped when I did my lines. Kinda rolled several things into one project; disc brake conversion/manual proportion valve/line lock, axle rebuild, Chevy 63s, replaced soft fuel lines, treated rust,.... i’ve Seen guys just run new line between gas tank and frame; call it good without anchoring it down for that area. I opted not to do it that way.

Trick30

[QUOTE=muddpigg;52379189]Looks like a bracket lift. Lots of ppl run them. I don’t like the 2 soft lines joined with a hard line for front brakes and excess looks like its zip tied to keep out of way. That’s why I don’t like it. No removing lines from LSPV will not “ruin” them; sounds like parts guy is thinking of a bubble flare on European cars. Are your hard lines rusted or leaking? I can’t see much of them. You might wanna inspect existing hard line thoroughly and decide if replacing them is the route you wanna go. After a good inspection you can take each line loose and blow it out with compressed air. Just make sure both end of line are disconnected so any trash exits system. Find extended soft lines and replace them. And wheel cylinders too. I had gas Tank dropped when I did my lines. Kinda rolled several things into one project; disc brake conversion/manual proportion valve/line lock, axle rebuild, Chevy 63s, replaced soft fuel lines, treated rust,.... i’ve Seen guys just run new line between gas tank and frame; call it good without anchoring it down for that area. I opted not to do it that way.[/QUOTE.. ]


yeah i wasnt sure on what the p.o. did for the lift.. looks home made to me.. but what do i know. i dont like the metal between the soft lines either. do they make a longer rubber hose i could replace all that with (the two rubber lines and the 2in metal line between them)? my hard lines are not leaking but the are starting to rust.. it does not take long up here in michigan for rust. thats why i wanted to just replace it all while i can instead of dealing with breaking lines and broke fittings and what not. i guess i can always take one line off at a time a replace as i go along.. i suppose i should buy a ˟˟˟˟˟ tone of fittings and go from there? id like to drop my tank also so i know the frame is clean and stuff is secured good. my worry is them lspv valves.. should i try to find new ones? once its all the new lines are done is there a procedure for bleeding the lines with the lspv? thanks for the input again! all is so helpful.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I understand rust. Upstate just worsened my hate for it. Looks like a 4” bracket lift so yes there are extended brake lines for it. I’m running coated braided stainless steel, I prefer them to rubber brake lines but a bit more spendy. I wouldn’t swap out LSPV unless it’s leaking and would probably be a hard part to find new (just guessing). Bleeding order is: RD, RP, FP, FD, LSPV.

You can measure amount of lift by measuring the bottom bolt hole on frame to bottom hole on bracket. Looks 4”ish.

Trick30

thanks muddpigg! you get alot of rust over in NY? where could i find some extended rubber line or the braided for that matter? and in that sequence for bleeding are you saying i have to bleed the lspv also? if so is there a bleeder screw or? you think my best bet is to just remove one line at a time measure and replace with new line and just go from there?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

they use tons of salt on roads during winter and it’s a cheaper mixture that really causes things to rust.

youre gonna need to search for soft lines, i’ve Got both trailhead and all-pro braided, like the allpro a bit better. Just seems to seat the line end in better, but never had a problem with either. You might wanna check with 4wheelparts for rubber lines. Yes, LSPV has a bleed screw on it, hard to miss. I pulled and replaced several of my lines, the nickel-copper line is nice to work with, practice the flaring but not hard.