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Hello Yodas, I've recently went on disability and can no longer do the physical things. I have what I'm guessing is a leaking (ruptured) break line on the passenger side of my truck. It seems to be running out where the extended cab is located. 1993 Pickup. 4x4 extended cab SR5. I've called around to some shops near me and I guess I expect too much from a knowledge point from the folks that work at these places. Ok on to the meat. Can someone give me some info on my options and maybe the involvement to replace or repair this? Skip all the bleeding info. I got that. I'm looking for maybe what I need to buy, and how difficult the job is. The more info the better. Hopefully someone has a truck like mine and has done this repair. I live in the Northeast and these people want too much for labor. Thanks in advance. Cheers.........
You have 3 basic possibilities:
1) A hard brake line. One of the metal tubes that carry brake fluid to the various system components. They can rust, or fatigue, after all this time.
2) A flexible brake line, which go to the wheels themselves, from the ends of the hard brake lines. Since the wheels move up and do a lot relative to the frame, they need those flexible lines to accommodate the wheel's motion. As they get old, the rubber gets brittle, and they can crack, or split.
3) The actuators on the wheels themselves. The calipers in front, and the "wheel cylinders" (their name) in the rear. The LSPV, as well. It might also be any of the connections between the various different items. Like between a hard and soft line, or a softline and the brake calipers.
You need to observe where the "drip", squirt, flood, etc is hitting the ground. That will give an approximation as to where in the system the leak is. Then, you can get under the truck, wearing safety glasses, an look carefully above where the leak is hitting the ground. You should be able to see fairly easily just where the leak is.
To me, for what it's worth, it sounds like the hard line running back to the LSPV, or the one returning from same, has a crack in it. Or a small rust hole. Something like that. But you really need to lay on your back to see just exactly where the leak is, and in what component of the system. They can be devilishly difficult to see, especially rusted out hardlines. A pinhole can leak an amazing amount of fluid in a short time, when the fluid is under pressure.
OR, if you're unable to do this, your only other choice is to take it to a shop. You WILL pay for the labor. It costs, I know, but I'm not sure what else you can do.
Unless you have a good friend who can do this for you. Even if you have to park yourself beside the truck and give him, or her, no offense intended ladies, instructions on what to look for, and where to look. It's cheaper to buy some beer, punch, soda, whatever, to bribe your friend with than to pay the labor costs of a shop.
Does this help at all?
Pat☺
Edit: The hard and soft brake lines aren't all that expensive, really. Even OEM replacement parts from the dealer. They are also fairly easy to replace, with just a few tools. A wrench set, a crows-foot wrench set, maybe a screwdriver or two. You simply drain the fluid, unscrew the couplers at both ends using the crows-foot wrenches, and then track down what clamps, etc hold them to the truck,
Yes, this pretty much validates exactly what the problem is. It's a hard line running above the frame along the passenger side. It's about halfway back so with your info I'm looking at replacing the hard line. I'm looking for a diagram that shows the routing but sadly I think I'm going to have to sell a kidney and let a shop rip me off to do this. Getting old is better than the alternative. I just can't twist,turn and crawl enough to remove and replace the line. I imagine when I find a decent diagram it will show the line and tell me where the connections are. Thanks for your response. P.S. problem with getting a friend to help me is all my friends are up in years and wouldn't be able to do it either. For all of you with family make sure you tell them how much they mean to you. It's a blessing. Stay safe.
Get these 2 things from napa, and an flare tool. Just had to do this after mine blew out (damn rust). It's a lot of wriggling under the car, see if you can get a buddy to help, but be careful, almost stabbed my eye with the damn line a couple times lol.
The line itself attaches to the frame and you'll have to remove the gas tank in order to put it back where it's supposed to go, but if you're a lazy ass like me you'll just zip tie the thing close enough to the frame out of the way haha.
Get these 2 things from napa, and an flare tool. Just had to do this after mine blew out (damn rust). It's a lot of wriggling under the car, see if you can get a buddy to help, but be careful, almost stabbed my eye with the damn line a couple times lol.
The line itself attaches to the frame and you'll have to remove the gas tank in order to put it back where it's supposed to go, but if you're a lazy ass like me you'll just zip tie the thing close enough to the frame out of the way haha.
Good luck and remember: have fun!
I Ordered 4 of those inverted nuts, don't know why it says 1. I got 2 extra just in case I ˟˟˟˟ed it up or needed them in the future, but get at least 2
Thanks for the info. Question? Napa is telling me the only M10 x 1.0L would take a long time to get to me. Is the "L" for long? If so why do I need the long version? I can probably get the M10 x 1.0 a lot easier. Thanks again for your help.
Last edited by Eighthnote; Oct 8, 2021 at 02:25 PM.
Reason: wording
Hey there, from what I experienced with this you'd really benefit from the extra length if that's what that stands for. I don't remember seeing the non L version so idk if that would be enough. That's crazy they don't have them in stock though, how long did they say it would take?
I'm assuming you're lookng at the hardline that goes to the right rear wheel. I quickly looked up a 1989 truck and it seems to be pretty inexpensive. Hardline with fittings already on. You might grab your vin and give the local dealer a call.
I'm assuming you're lookng at the hardline that goes to the right rear wheel. I quickly looked up a 1989 truck and it seems to be pretty inexpensive. Hardline with fittings already on. You might grab your vin and give the local dealer a call.
Looked for this extensively last month, where did you find one?!
I need the model# off the plate to look up a part number.
On a 1993 it’ll be on the same decal in the drivers door jam where your vin is.
something like RN101L-PDQA or VZN130L-XXXXA
Hey there, from what I experienced with this you'd really benefit from the extra length if that's what that stands for. I don't remember seeing the non L version so idk if that would be enough. That's crazy they don't have them in stock though, how long did they say it would take?
They said a week. I guess the supply chain problems are hitting everywhere.
I need the model# off the plate to look up a part number.
On a 1993 it’ll be on the same decal in the drivers door jam where your vin is.
something like RN101L-PDQA or VZN130L-XXXXA
VZN110L-CRMGEA
Is this the number you need?
Thanks for the help.
47324-35160. Again, this is the tube from union on axle housing to right rear wheel cylinder.
about $10.00 plus shipping online. Your local dealer is probably close.
#47324 in the image below
you Should put the model # in your signature so everyone can see. If you ever post a question we’ll have a better idea how to help
47324-35160. Again, this is the tube from union on axle housing to right rear wheel cylinder.
about $10.00 plus shipping online. Your local dealer is probably close.
#47324 in the image below
you Should put the model # in your signature so everyone can see. If you ever post a question we’ll have a better idea how to help
. When I do find
My break is on one of the longer tubes running down the passenger side. I see two in your diagram. The leak is just under the extended cab about halfway the length of the truck. 47315 or 47322. When I do find the ways and means to get these replaced I'm guessing I should replace both. The diagram helps. Thanks........
I highly recommend Nickel-Copper brake line. It's far easier to work with, and resistant to corrosion.
Those lines on the passenger side run above the fuel tank. The tank will likely have to be removed to do it properly.
In the factory configuration, there are 2 brake lines that run back to the LSPV. Replace them both (or delete the LSPV and second line) while you're in there.
Ok, I better understand the brake lines you need. I did find the two part numbers and they are discontinued. I also did a brief check on other truck/4Runner models from that gen and it shows a pretty narrow application range, so if trying to get used it looks like sourcing out another VZN110L is needed. How the other ones differ I have no idea. Even the 2WD Xtracab had a different part number.
One thought, and something I've never done, is taking the line out, and if it's in decent condition, cutting it at the break and splicing with a union. Make sure to do a double flare.
I highly recommend Nickel-Copper brake line. It's far easier to work with, and resistant to corrosion.
Those lines on the passenger side run above the fuel tank. The tank will likely have to be removed to do it properly.
In the factory configuration, there are 2 brake lines that run back to the LSPV. Replace them both (or delete the LSPV and second line) while you're in there.
You're correct. They are discontinued. I think my only option here is to buy the line as a 25 foot roll and buy the short lines that already have the M10 fittings. I could cut those off and use them.
Could you explain the two lines and what the LSPV is? What would I be deleting? I did look it up in the shop manual. Load sensing proportional valve. No clue what it does.
Thanks for all the help. Cheers
Last edited by Eighthnote; Oct 11, 2021 at 01:05 PM.
Reason: More info