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brake issues and egr ?

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Old 11-19-2013, 01:56 AM
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brake issues and egr ?

I am new to the Toyota scene always ran domestic vehicles. I recently purchased a 9 4 pickup ext cab with 4x4 and when I bought it the brake line had a pin hole in it. I replaced it and bled system 4 different times. It built pressure when off but once cranked it would loose pressure there would be a lot of travel with pedal then it would get almost to the floor it would have brake and stop on a dime. There is brake just at the floor. Ive read other post and possibly could be master cylinder but just wanting to check to see what others think. I wondered if shoes being worn could cause this or adjustment ? Any help would be great. Also I have check engine light on and when in did diagnosis I came up with get system. Does that mean the egr valve is bad or what other parts could be throwing this code ? Thanks again for looking over my post and helping if you can.
Old 11-19-2013, 01:57 AM
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Also there is no leaks fluid level stays full in reservoir. Just thought I needed to add that.
Old 11-19-2013, 07:14 AM
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what is "came up with get system"?

I would check the brake pedal free play first, then go from there.
Old 11-19-2013, 07:56 AM
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Egr system.
Old 11-20-2013, 07:02 AM
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I just went through this!

Just put in brand new cv axles, rotors, inner and outer bearings and seals and newly rebuilt calipers on both sides of my 94 extra cab with 3.0 v6 and dlx model. When we went to bleed the brakes we ran into the same problem. some pressure when engine was off (not real good pressure) and than we would start the motor and the brake pedal would go to the floor. the vaccume assist would give more pressure and we would lose all pressure.

First we bled the master cylinder, only two lines connect to it and you loosen the lines after pumping brakes to make sure the master is getting fluid to your two lines! (one at a time) it sounds to me if the fluid is not going down than the master cylinder is clogged or not working.

We finally changed master cylinder with a rebuilt one from a shop and it wouldn't fit the plastic container from the stock master! we did everything and finally got it to fit tight and couldn't get the master cylinder to bleed out one of the lines portal. we took it off and after cleaning the old master put it back in and was able to bleed the old master on both outlets.

Our problem lasted for hours, we finally called someone for help and they asked where the bleeders were on the calipers? they were on the bottom of the calipers! I had put the left on the L caliper on the left side and put the right R on the right side as if I were sitting in the truck looking out. well I guess it needed to be looking at the truck standing in front of it! with the bleeders on the bottom the air would rise and you can never bleed them! power assist would add more pressure and whamo no pressure!
Turned the calipers around and had it bled in no time at all!

Master cylinders cost = rebuilt = $45 with a 35 dollar core charge. they wanted $160 for a new one but later I found them online for $69 through auto zone.

In noway am I saying this will fix your truck and am not responsible for your safety just thought I would share what we just went through on my truck. when rebuilding both sides and putting everything new on, the old calipers were already off the truck so I just grabbed the R AND L and they went on the wrong sides! but I know a lot about my brake system now-Ha

I believe the wire to your brake fluid res. is just for low brake fluid light, not part of the working system but I could be wrong. your air assist seems to be working since you lose pressure when engine is started (doing it's job) I would start with master cylinder bleeding because we went through a quart and a half of brake fluid while bleeding, fluid flow was not our problem but it sure sounds like it is on your truck. GOOD LUCK!
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