what year. i bet you haven't probed it, or it is extremely old. as i said, it's been a ntsb requirement for some time now.

 

the rear brakes section of the mc is at the rear, where it was leaking. the way it works, is the rears pressure up to something like 30psi then the fronts kick in, but it should still give you a real low pedal, but the fronts should work if there is no pressure in the rears. either way, if it's leaking there, you need a new mc.

 

Earlier in this thread there was some talk about the poorer quality of brake and clutch cylinders from parts stores. Today I got bit with another poor part. My clutch slave cylinder was leaking around the seals on the piston of the cylinder and pouring fluid out the rubber skirt. I knew it was a bad cylinder and need the truck for work so I grabbed a part store replacement as I dont have the time to wait for a delivery.

I installed the cylinder and it started leaking at the threads. I was careful not to cross thread the nut to the cylinder. I took it apart and started looking at my old Aisin cylinder where the nut goes into the cylinder. I then compared the replacement cylinder and it looks as if the end of the metal line just cant seat againts the cylinder there by causing my leak.

I tried reseating the line to the replacement cylinder and then pressurized it with air making sure the piston was clamped and would not pop out under pressure and it would leak air.

Since I need the truck, I took the piston out of the replacement cylinder and stuck into my Aisian cylinder and so far no leaks. Not the best fix and would not really suggest doing it but I need the truck for work and am ordering an Aisin to replace my combo job.

Probably cant tell but here is a factory metal hose with the replacement cylinder and why I am getting a leak around the threads. My threads are perfect on the truck and the threads in the replacement cylinder are fine, I am suspecting that my threads on the metal line are metric and the replacement cylinder are SAE.

 

the flare on it looks rather small. it should get trapped between the nut and cone with a decent amount of meat. if you had honed the old cylinder and made sure there is no pitting, all you would need to do is chase the threads and change the bleeder and it's basically rebuilt. You used to be able to buy all kinds of rebuild kits, then you can know it's done right.

 

Okay so decided to replace the mc so I did that and rebleed the system and fixed the no brake issue another question is did the 87 pickups have catlytic converters from factory mine was made in 86 and has a 22r carb. Truck was sold in 87