Braided Lines for Fuel Filter?
#21
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,592
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Yeah, there's a drain plug. And we have the same gen, GVO. And the access panel must be under the rear seats, cuz there isn't 1 in the cargo area. My BEAST was built in Japan, so maybe only the american built Toyota's have the panel?
#23
Its easy. I developed a leak in my gas line and its becuase the "hardest angles" are right there and the top of the tank is flat, actually has a slight indent where water likes to hang. That juncture where it bends into the tank is probably the most prone to rust. Water can get up in there and just hang out.
The drain plug is simply on the bottom of the tank. You can access it through the protective cage. Do your gens have that? On mine and im assuming 1st gens as well there is a hefty rock shield over the tank. You dont even need to mess with it, you can get at the bolt through it. THANK YOU TOYOTA.
The drain plug is simply on the bottom of the tank. You can access it through the protective cage. Do your gens have that? On mine and im assuming 1st gens as well there is a hefty rock shield over the tank. You dont even need to mess with it, you can get at the bolt through it. THANK YOU TOYOTA.
#25
Ok so I just went out to find the port...making me crazy as I thought it was easy to find. It is, just have to look in the right spot.
Also, buy a tube of some light silicon sealent.. its a "soft seal" thats easy to break again but watertight. You can use to to reseal that port when done.
Anyway, if you walk out to the side the gas tank is on. Open the door, LIFT up the lower section of the back seat. Its right in there. The carpet can be pulled away pretty easy. Theres a drain plug and a big, maybe 3 to 4 in in diameter port thats hard sealed to the floor. take a screwdriver and pry that bastard up. If i remember it takes a little, not much. When you want to reseal it, just scrub it and the floor really good. A nice layer of silicon sealant will waterproof it again and would be nice to break if you needed to get at that area again.
Also, mine was made in Canada to be honest. But I bet you have one to. Its designed to test, change pump without needed to drop tank.
Heres the kicker though, ive never seen it in any manual. I only stumbled upon it when I dropped my tank to replace a bad fuel pump. Its like a little secret. Its there though and IT SAVES so much time! When I had to replace my brake line, it took seriously under an hour vs. a day of fighting with bolts that will be stuck.. I promise you that!
One note, have a helper that can be under the car to "push" the tube up in the area as it is a awkward angle and you will need to shimy it. Its all good. Your line broke because it was old and probably rusted. New line, like brake line is meant to be bent... carefully and with love... but it can be bent.
Also, buy a tube of some light silicon sealent.. its a "soft seal" thats easy to break again but watertight. You can use to to reseal that port when done.
Anyway, if you walk out to the side the gas tank is on. Open the door, LIFT up the lower section of the back seat. Its right in there. The carpet can be pulled away pretty easy. Theres a drain plug and a big, maybe 3 to 4 in in diameter port thats hard sealed to the floor. take a screwdriver and pry that bastard up. If i remember it takes a little, not much. When you want to reseal it, just scrub it and the floor really good. A nice layer of silicon sealant will waterproof it again and would be nice to break if you needed to get at that area again.
Also, mine was made in Canada to be honest. But I bet you have one to. Its designed to test, change pump without needed to drop tank.
Heres the kicker though, ive never seen it in any manual. I only stumbled upon it when I dropped my tank to replace a bad fuel pump. Its like a little secret. Its there though and IT SAVES so much time! When I had to replace my brake line, it took seriously under an hour vs. a day of fighting with bolts that will be stuck.. I promise you that!
One note, have a helper that can be under the car to "push" the tube up in the area as it is a awkward angle and you will need to shimy it. Its all good. Your line broke because it was old and probably rusted. New line, like brake line is meant to be bent... carefully and with love... but it can be bent.
#26
GVOL,
So what you are saying is (if I have that access point) that I would be able to see/unbolt the line nut where the rubber meets the hard line?
The entire line is pretty rusted and corroded. I wish I could replace it with all rubber hose but did some research and it's not a great idea. Rubber flexes when it heats up and also the pressurization of the hose vs. the hard line is different.
So what you are saying is (if I have that access point) that I would be able to see/unbolt the line nut where the rubber meets the hard line?
The entire line is pretty rusted and corroded. I wish I could replace it with all rubber hose but did some research and it's not a great idea. Rubber flexes when it heats up and also the pressurization of the hose vs. the hard line is different.
#27
Yea I mentioned that. EFI runs at a high psi. Yes you should.
One note. If your line is as rusted as it sounds.. your probably gonna need a whole new fuel pump bracket. Thats the thing that holds the pump in the tank, and its up top. It has the tubes on it that connect to the rubber hose to the main fuel lines. My guess is thats all gonna just be rusted solid.
But yea, you should go out and just rip that port off to take a look. Rip the whole line out, the run new one.. its actually much easier that way.
If you rip the old out, you can feed the new one down the side of the truck..as long as you cradle it up beside the frame.. protect it..it does not need to go the same route as the old one.. to save you time.
One note. If your line is as rusted as it sounds.. your probably gonna need a whole new fuel pump bracket. Thats the thing that holds the pump in the tank, and its up top. It has the tubes on it that connect to the rubber hose to the main fuel lines. My guess is thats all gonna just be rusted solid.
But yea, you should go out and just rip that port off to take a look. Rip the whole line out, the run new one.. its actually much easier that way.
If you rip the old out, you can feed the new one down the side of the truck..as long as you cradle it up beside the frame.. protect it..it does not need to go the same route as the old one.. to save you time.
#29
i went from right out of the tank to right before the filter with HIGH PRESSURE FUEL HOSE.. which isnt the same as rubberhose..it is fine i used 2 or 3 clamps per side and zip tied it ever few inches... cheap and easier fix..
post up some pics and we will fix up a diagnosis for ya!
post up some pics and we will fix up a diagnosis for ya!
#30
I will see if I have that access panel or whatever on the gas tank side topside. If I do I will be sure to take pictures to see what resolution you guys come up with. I am hoping to get the stock hard lines but if I have to run rubber hose for now (temporary) to get me up and running for a little bit that would be awesome too.
I will try to see if I can replace the lines (with the OEM hard lines) without having to drop the tank, that would be amazing if I can do it.
I will try to see if I can replace the lines (with the OEM hard lines) without having to drop the tank, that would be amazing if I can do it.
#31
might have a hard time.. you prolly dont have that pannel its only on first gen runners me thinks.
if its leaking at the fuel pump?? you must drop the tank... i though you ment the fuel filter which is closer tot he engine?
i replaced fromthe filter to almost the tank with rubber i cut the steel from a few inchs past where i could first see the steel line coming from the tank..
if its leaking at the fuel pump?? you must drop the tank... i though you ment the fuel filter which is closer tot he engine?
i replaced fromthe filter to almost the tank with rubber i cut the steel from a few inchs past where i could first see the steel line coming from the tank..
#32
I dont think you can replace with the oem lines, they are bent to follow the original path. You would have to drop for that.
if you do get rubber, remember to ask for high pressure. Its more expensive. Stock metal line is the cheapest.
I can tell you what that pics gonna lock like. Rust.
Been there.
if you do get rubber, remember to ask for high pressure. Its more expensive. Stock metal line is the cheapest.
I can tell you what that pics gonna lock like. Rust.

Been there.
#34
might have a hard time.. you prolly dont have that pannel its only on first gen runners me thinks.
if its leaking at the fuel pump?? you must drop the tank... i though you ment the fuel filter which is closer tot he engine?
i replaced fromthe filter to almost the tank with rubber i cut the steel from a few inchs past where i could first see the steel line coming from the tank..
if its leaking at the fuel pump?? you must drop the tank... i though you ment the fuel filter which is closer tot he engine?
i replaced fromthe filter to almost the tank with rubber i cut the steel from a few inchs past where i could first see the steel line coming from the tank..
Last edited by BoostinChick; Dec 12, 2008 at 06:49 PM.
#35
here what you do.. turn the key to on but not start..
then takea wire and jump the fp +B i think in the test box.. this will kick on fuel pump.. and you should be able to see the leak.. then unhook wire to turn pump off...
dont need to have the truck started and try to find a leak that way!
then takea wire and jump the fp +B i think in the test box.. this will kick on fuel pump.. and you should be able to see the leak.. then unhook wire to turn pump off...
dont need to have the truck started and try to find a leak that way!
#37
all 3 of my trucks , my 2 22re 4runners and my hilux surf dont have a cess pannel in under the seat for the fuel pump... they have a jack hidden in there though..
my old 1987 had one..
my old 1987 had one..
#38
Oh I am sure I will be using the breaker bar. I just want to make this as easy as possible since I am still on edge about the possibility of dropping the gas tank.
#39
if you have to drop the tank.. take out asmuch fuel as you can and keep a floor jack under it and you can lower it slowly with that!!
lots of pb blast tonight or a hour before you go at it tommorow...
but like i said it was 30 dollars for rubberback to front.. filter to almost tank.. a pack of clamps.. go 2 or 3 on each side and check them every few days till you know its good.
lots of pb blast tonight or a hour before you go at it tommorow...
but like i said it was 30 dollars for rubberback to front.. filter to almost tank.. a pack of clamps.. go 2 or 3 on each side and check them every few days till you know its good.
#40
So I ripped apart my interior. The passenger side right above the gas tank. I don't really see any access panel or anything large enough for me to even work with:




Close up of the only hole that's not for the motor mount:




Close up of the only hole that's not for the motor mount:


