Replacing Hard Fuel Lines From Fuel Filter...
 

*EDIT* The line is so corroded/bad that I am now needing to replace the entire thing.

Well I attempted to tackle the task of replacing the fuel filter and I am stuck on the nut that is towards the front of the truck. I am letting it soak with PB Blaster for the night and going to try my flare nut wrench. I am pretty sure once I get some muscle in there and twist it that section of the fuel line will most likely snap, kink, or give me another headache.

hey hun just thinking here im guessing you got the other side off the filter aye? then why dont you try holding the line with the wrench and spinning the filter off the line after you unbolted it to the block of corse?

just thinking out loud here

If you can, try to order the hard line before and after the fuel filter from the dealer and replace them (if they're still available). The cost isn't too bad. Then when you install them use a little anti-seize on the threads and don't over-torque the nuts. Anyway that's what I did. :)

I can tell you, if you find one. LUCKY! I had a rusted front and back side fuel line, the people at the dealer said they showed 2 total and no idea where they were.. so for the front side I got one off a same year truck, and with a little tube bender got it to fit. I made my own back side of filter to tank.

Automotive fuel line is standardized.. import, american.. meeting basic req. Take in a section of your old fuel line and they will get you the right stuff. SAVE the MALE>FEMALE JOINTS.. as when I went they didnt have them...

Anyway, I second the STICK to hard line. If youve read, you really are supposed to go what, more than3 or 4 in. of rubber tube. The braided stuff, I know its stronger..but how much so?

You see braided on carb. systems which run usually off a mechanical fuel pump at around 5-15 psi...so not very strong vs. our yota's efi which is up at 60 or more psi.

My numbers maybe a little off, im not looking at the specs and doing it from memory but the jist is, EFI systems run at a MUCH higher PSI, so I would stay with OEM tube.

Its SO EASY to buy a 10 foot or 20 foot length and cut to fashion. Its SO CHEAP. I seriously spent a grand total of 20 bucks on it. You will need a tube bender (10 bucks) and a flare kit (20 bucks)... practice till you get it and your ready to go. Its really easy.



Ive never used the braided...but I gotta think that straight metal is stronger and I would go with it.

That's what is usually screwed...

Well my worst fears came true. I did as Alan suggested and WHAM I have hard line leaks in a couple spots. I cannot repair them because one sprung up behind the rear cross member towards the fuel tank. I asked a buddy of mine if he could do the work (because I am not comfortable with dropping the fuel tank) and unfortunately he cannot since he is an exhaust shop and welds. I will talk to the dealership for now and see if they can order me both lines.

Hehe.....Dale made a funny. :nerd:

Aye.....it happens to many (<<me<<), but it still sucks.

The way you gotta work with PB Blaster.....or any penetrant.....is to start days in advance with the soaking on hard to remove parts. Just as importantly, you have to add vibration to the equation. However you can do this......whether it be a block of wood between the frame rail and line or whatever and a wrench or another block of wood on the fittings.....is tap lightly with a hammer. Small ball peen, in this case. You have to relieve the surface tension of the metal. Penetrant will get in and soak the area of rust and whatnot, but won't set up this vibration and tension relief. I know it's a very difficult area to get to, so you just have to work with it. Start now with any other fasteners that will need to come loose to make this repair.

I've not done this, so not sure how it's done, but maybe consider relocating the filter at this point, also. Somewhere else along the frame rale, perhaps??

*rail.........

Another thing you might consider, since you work on your own vehicle, is to mix ATF to a ratio of 10% acetone and keep it around for such occasions. It's a cheap and much more effective penetrant than PB.

I actually just ordered stuff by Castle called Thrust. It was recommended to me in another thread of mine (by a guy who lived in Canada and most likely has worse rust woes than I). I posted in another member's thread since he had to drop the gas tank in his pick up but he replaced a hell of a lot more than I did. If I went back to stock hard lines, as many have suggested, not sure I can re-locate the fuel filter.

I replaced the fuel lines earlier this year. It took the dealer 1 day to get them.

Since I was replacing all the hard lines I cut the old lines right behind the connections and used a breaker bar to break the connections. Used a flare wrench on the flexible lines [that run forward to the engine and back to the fuel pump] and did not damage them at all. They are very pricey. The hard lines are around $20 each if I remember correctly.

If anyone would have the part number to make it easier for myself and the dealership that would rock. Since most of my hard lines from the fuel filter are rubber anyway the only obstacle I foresee (if I venture into this myself) is draining the gas tank and dropping it.

Ok I just have to say.. dropping the tank is really easy.

Couple of tips:
I have a 90, so 2nd gen... on it there is a port above the gas tank you can access by pulling up the carpet to get at the fuel filter and lines without even dropping the tank.. AWESOME!

Toyota being what it is, I gotta think they left that awesome idea on yours? If so, well theres a great thing. You dont even need to drop the tank. Run the line back, leave a lot of extra, get in there...pull up your carpet and open your port. Theres not a tremendous amount of room..but since the last 4 inches or so will be rubber...to allow for slack in the system..if you get the tube in the right area the rubber connection will allow you to get it lined up.



if you dont have a port, which I cant believe they would have gotten rid of... one person dropping of the tank is easy.

I found that if I place a tube jack, like the ones our trucks come with, under the tank I can use it to carry the weight and hold it as I slowly lower it to unplug stuff. ITS SO SIMPLE.

Hrmmmm I am not really picturing this. Did you replace the same lines I am needing to? I am unsure where the hard line for the rear fuel filter would connect to since I am only seen the front. I assumed it was another line nut that went directly into the tank. What section of carpet do I need to pull up? The cargo area or rear seats?

I'm thinking he means pulling the cargo area carpet. It's pouring here, but I'll go check out my rig.....the things 1 does for boostin chickies......

Mine did the same thing, I just used the rubber hose.

FYI - the braided lines for my brakes were >$70 - they ain't cheap!

My '91 doesn't have that access panel, chicky, so I'm thinking your '94 doesn't have it either......

Where my new leak is I cannot reach back there to get rubber hose without dropping the tank anyway (it's above the rear cross member more towards the tank now). If I am going to do all that work I might as well invest in the hard lines/OEM and do it right. I just got off the phone with DeathCougar, really great guy and answered a lot of my questions.

Yea, I should have said fuel pump that is in your fuel tank. And if you have a 91, thats the same generation as mine. You must have one? It should be back, right behind the rear seats on or around your rear wheel well.

Also, he way it works is one fuel line runs the length of your vehicle, starting at engine moving to about midway at the front door with the filter(placement may be different for you), then moving back to the fuel tank.

You have two more lines, vent and return lines that run usually down the middle of the vehicle. for the VSV system, this returns unused fuel and allows for venting and what not.

I have a 94'....I am going to order the lines today if I can. This weekend I will start tearing it down and will look for that access panel.

I am also told there is a drain plug on the tank itself. This way I can just unbolt that instead of attempting to siphon it, right?