Not to steal business from Roger (because he is a GREAT guy with FANTASTIC products and INCREDIBLE customer service), but why don't you do 33x10.50 and not need any lift at all?

I think the wide tire thing cracks me up more than the bodylift bias.

If you ARE dead set on a bodylift, be sure to look into "drivetrain lift" if you're actually gonna 'wheel at all.

 

Oh - what is this "tilt" test? They roll your truck and see how much it took for it to go over?

 

im also curious on this tilt test...? i went to my inspection station about a 3 inbch body lift and they said to go for it! its when your headlights start blinding other drivers because the trucks headlights are at family car window level. mine is going on next week!

 

Its a great mod!

 

i got a 3inch bl for my runner.I plan on doing the driveline lift tho. I have to say its not the best looking thing in the world because you can see the frame but at the same time it doesnt matter..if you lift the susupension you can see the frame because its all up higher lol

Anyways bl is a good one but like i read from Tc why lift if you dont need to. Even if you do wheel it then go as high as you need but dont go crazy. My truck went up almost 6inches and i turned the tbars down to about 4-5 and still run 36/12.5/15 all day everyday.

 

Put some sliders on and you won't see the frame:

 

the tilt test is when u take ur truck and drive it up a little ramp on onr of ur front tires. when u drive up the ramp you have to stop and then they weight each tire to see how your truck will do when your truck is on a tilt. at least thats what i know. then after you go there once you must alwas return there every 2 years.

 

So at which BL hight will you need to do mods to the steering sgaft and gas filler neck or shifters. After 3inches? Or is 3in and down ok?

 

Depends on the vehicle:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...o.shtml#Taller
and
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/....shtml#Updates

 

My 3" kit came with a block to fix the steering linkage. It was an unbolt, insert spacer, then bolt back up mod. Nothing to it.

Gas filler reached, barely. I had to loosen the clamps and slide the rubber all the way to the edge, and then stretch it slightly to reach but it worked fine and has for 10 years or so.

My kit also came with spacers for the gear shifts and i took them down to a welding shop and had them cut and extended. I spoke to a 4wd shop later and they said they always just straightened them out a little and left them alone. I had trouble for years with the shifter popping out of r, 2, and 4 because I think the shifters were cut in the wrong place but recently I had another transmission installed and the guy notched the shifter plate and fixed it for me.

Overall its not a bad job, but it is time consuming.

 

Yes, funny how the other kits always include those weld-in extensions for the shifter when that is really not the issue you need to deal with. What you need to do is make sure the shifters do not bind up on the rubber boot and base plate where the shifters pass through the floor. Several options for dealing with that on the web page below:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#ManualTranny

And if you find the shifter is too short after the lift, then a screw-on extension is much easier to install. Just unscrew the knob on top of the shifter, screw on the extension and screw the knob back on:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...tml#SL_ScrewOn

 

Wow, that is so much better of a solution than the cut and weld, but I don't think those were around back when I did it. I had just gotten on the internet back then with a 133mhz win95 computer and the net was a source of free games for me, not truck parts.