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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Blown Headgasket- It CAN happen to you

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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:54 PM
  #41  
DupermanDave's Avatar
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From: Northern Colorado :-(
Why don't they make flexible and non-breakable gaskets? like an RTV gasket? Could you even use copper RTV for a headgasket?

Im just curious because after so many technological advancements (we've made it to the moon, for pete's sake!) we still can't overcome headgasket mechanics.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 06:35 PM
  #42  
annoyingrob's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB
Originally Posted by DupermanDave
Why don't they make flexible and non-breakable gaskets? like an RTV gasket? Could you even use copper RTV for a headgasket?

Im just curious because after so many technological advancements (we've made it to the moon, for pete's sake!) we still can't overcome headgasket mechanics.
The head gasket is under incredible amounts of heat and perssure. RTV just wouldn't hold up. It can't even hold up to the exhaust heat after it's left the motor.

The problem isn't so much the gasket itself though, it's how the gasket it held in place. A head gasket is only about 1-1.5mm thick. They have a lot of strength on the edge, but as soon as you let it flap around up and down, it's going to fail. As long as it's held tightly between the head and block, it won't fail.

You say we can't overcome ead gasket mechanics. We HAVE overcome them. Yes, Toyota made a few mistakes with a few models of motors, but most of their other models are fine. The reason why you keep seeing so many motors like the 3VZ, or 7M blowing head gaskets time and time again is usually because even if they are replaced, they are replaced using 'flawed' factory specifications.

A stock Toyota head gasket will hold for a long long time, but ONLY if the surfaces are flat and smooth, and ONLY if they are properly clamped down. If you're replacing the gasket with another composite material, the head needs to be machined. The head and gasket are actually designed to warp upon compression, and fill in any small imperfections. The block is usually flat enough to not worry about. If you are installing a metal head gasket, BOTH surfaces NEED to be machined. Not for flatness, but for SMOOTHNESS. A metal head gasket isn't as forgiving in filling in cracks and dips in the surface.

A metal head gasket isn't for everyone. There's a lot of extra work required to pull out the block, and dismantle it to get it machined, but whatever you install, I urge you, SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY ON HEAD STUDS. Head bolts can provide some vastly inaccurate torque readings. Spend the extra 200 bucks, and buy a set of ARP head studs. You're talking about a motor that's KNOWN to have head bolt issues. Eliminate the weak component. It's not like they're terribly expensive.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #43  
stormin94's Avatar
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From: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Originally Posted by annoyingrob
Spend the extra 200 bucks, and buy a set of ARP head studs. You're talking about a motor that's KNOWN to have head bolt issues. Eliminate the weak component. It's not like they're terribly expensive.
$200 is pretty expensive. My head gaskets, and most of the other components cost around $500. (Although my cost was only around $250)
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 06:22 AM
  #44  
TNRabbit's Avatar
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Originally Posted by stormin94
$200 is pretty expensive. My head gaskets, and most of the other components cost around $500. (Although my cost was only around $250)
If you have to do it again, it will be expensive~
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