hey.. I never thought to use the probes on my new toy.

When you do that, what do you set the dial to?

 

I would still get them ceramic coated to hold the heat down in the engine bay. Headers will run very close to things you don't want too hot (starter, brake lines and fuel lines, wiring, etc...).

 

do the 3.4 and then supercharge it makes good power

 

If it was a feasible option I'd be on it in a heartbeat. Right now though, it's just not something I can pull off. I only have about a grand to make the truck run again and there are other things in my way that prevent me from doing the swap.

Where in Indiana are you?

 

Oh. Alright. That makes sense. I saw someone mention Jet Hot in another thread. Are there other options besides them that anyone has any experience with? I only ever see threads mentioning people who have purchased them already coated.

Additionally, is the cost really offset by the small performance and larger reliability gain? I know that ( from lots and lots of reading on the forums ) that HG problems on the 3.0 are caused in part by that crossover pipe meeting up behind the #6 Cylinder.

 

My honest opinion...the cost is a bit steep for a design flaw of the motor. You can usually find them used for a decent price but new they are $500+ easily.

And I would stick with ceramic coatings. As mentioned already keeps the engine bay cooler since it runs pretty close to the starter and other important things.

 

Whoa. $500 plus?! I kept reading that people were paying between 3-4 for them. Maybe headers are out of the question.

I've been PM'ing another member who did the swap and basically has an entire 3VZE lying around. Only problem is that he's in California so things would have to be shipped. I imagine that might get kind of pricey. Since the 3.4 swap is pretty much forever out of the question, having a second 3.0 might not be such a bad idea.


Thanks for the tips/advice. I appreciate it. I'm hoping that maybe in the next couple weeks I can buy some large tarps ( garage, no garage door, have to do something to keep it slightly warm in it ) and some kerosene for the heater and go out there and start taking stuff apart, maybe see if I have bigger problems than just a blown HG. I'm too nervous to go out there and wrench on stuff when it's cold like this. I also need to invest in another can of PB Blaster. I had to leave my old (basically full ) one in AZ

 

I meant to say around $500. I think it's like $334 on Summit + shipping and I am not 100% sure if that is for the ceramic coated ones or not. Plus you have to add the cost of the y-pipe pre-fabbed or an exhaust shop fabbing it for you. That's my reasoning for saying $500.

 

Ohhhhh... I see. Got it. Color me dense Thanks for clarifying.

Maybe I'll make my own headers out of hammered out pipe and JB Weld.

 

I'm in the same boat...does anyone know where to get cams for better performance? Weasy2k was mentioned a lot in previous years, but his site is no longer up...I'm also curious if anyone has used a steel gasket instead of a fabric one since it seems like it would be far less likely to fail...Any input would be appreciated. As for headers, the NWOR set will totally bolt in while their routing will definitely keep you from cooking the starter or passenger side floor I've had both downey/thorley they're both made by thorley) the thorley headers required cutting of emissions control, a terrrible fit under the truck while the nwor were way up out of the way and fit exactly...worth the money and even the wait IMO...

 

Even though I haven't used them yet, I'd suggest getting in touch with Ted @ Engnbldr ( http://www.engnbldr.com ) His gasket kits are as complete as any kit on the market and superior quality ( steel gaskets ) His headbolts are also dirt cheap and better grade ( he mentioned them being 10.9 grade, and stated that because of that, they can be reused )

My plans are to ( hopefully ) get everything from him, send my heads to his son in Portland and have them do the machine work and install the new valve seals ( providing I can afford all that ) After all the promising stuff I've read from members working with him on here, I'd be dumb not to work with him.

Headers are likely out of the question for me at this point. I just won't have the funds to cover the extra cost ( insert sad face here )

Good luck. Sorry I didn't mention anything about better cams. I'm still learning stuff too.

 

the only problem with not doing headers is that you're not remedying the design flaw which is the root cause of the blown headgasket in the first place: the crappy exhaust crossover pipe design which overheats the back of the head and weakens the gasket....

 

Not saying I'm convinced that is the problem but it is a bad design. Let me just throw out there headers are not the only option to get rid of that crossover. Many of us that did the 3.4 swap have made a custom cross-over behind the engine. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...r-pipe-138902/