ok a buddy wants to know what size tires he can fit on his 88runner with a 2in body lift maby 3in and 3in rear blocks and cranked tortion bars and as much fender triming as possible. he is hopein to wedge in 35x12.5's but idk i think it will hit the body by your feet up front but idk.

what do u guys think??????

 

thats a decent amount of lift going on but i think itd be very hard to fit those 35s, especially with no backspacing. i'd say he could probably do 33's with some trimming. with little to no suspension lifting going on, he won't fit the 35s i dont think

 

Sounds like 33's to me, and you dont really want to run 35's unless your going to regear anyway. Tell him to stick with the 33's, he'll be much happier, unless he wants to do a suspension lift and regear the diff's. Then go for 35's. Good luck!!

 

Yikes, I don't think you can crank up your stock T-bars up 3"... :pat:

Go for 33's, my 0.02.

 

he cranked up the tbars 2in and i thought 33 sounded good but he wont like it when he goes wheelin with me and i have 37in boggers. i have stock 4.10 with 37s and a 22r which i really dont like but its not to bad in 4LO, plus i do mostly mud.

 

What he has to remeber the only real lift he is getting in 2" from the body lift, provinding enough room to run a 4" larger tire of the same width, if he goes wider, the diameter gets smaller. While cranking the t-bars makes more room on the street it doesnt do anything offroad...they suspension still stuffs to the same spot, therefore no lift is acheived, BJ spacers are the same way, just take less preload on the tbars.

If he really wants big meats he will need a bracket lift or an SAS!!!

 

those big tires arent gonna make you go anywhere else wheeling. tell him to invest in gears and lockers first a stock yota with a locker will out perform a rig with 35's and open diffs

 

Yeah, doing 35's that way will be hell on the CV's and front diff. Stick to 33's (He could do 33x10.50 with just the body lift OR the tbar/blocks whichever is cheaper) and use the money saved to put a lockrite in the back. Between the better gearing and the better traction, I bet he'd at least give your rig a run for the money, if not drive circles around it...

 

Simply sounds like a stupid idea.

Tell him to not lift it till he can do it right.

 

 

i agree 100%

lift blocks on the leafs also multiply the effects of axle wrap!

 

Oh yeah - let be be clear - I'm not suggesting the blocks. It's a temporary solution at best. You WILL crack your leafs, and have to put in a rearched/lift set eventually.

I would suggest you put 33x10.50 on there with NO lift like I did, but knowing you're kids, you won't listen anyways, so I'll save myself the breath.

Maybe you'll listen to Roger (the Man for all things 1st gen 'Runner)
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

 

While I dont think 35's are any more streanious on the IFS than some 33's (my 35 BFG's are only slightly larger than my 33TSL, and lighter and easier to turn), and can be as deadly to the IFS as 31's on stupid driving..the key being stupid driving....

I would do like has been said and not over tire your current lift, and do it right. 33x10.50's are a great way to go, you get the added ground clerance, and they fit with a 1" BL where 31's fit.

Run a locker for a while, I was amazed by how far my 95 went when all I had was 32's and an ARB... My suspension was horrible...but the traction more than made up for it.. and it still does...

With all that being said, the difference on the trail between 33's and 35's is huge, I have so much less trouble with the 35's than I had with the 33's, and if I drive smart I wont ever have a problem with the front end...