Mine was creaking during the cold weather, it was the plastic bushing that the pin goes through which holds the clutch push rod. Once the cab warmed up the creaking stopped.

 

Mine is already warmed up. No A/C and 100 degree heat outside. still creaking.

 

I've got 228,000 miles on my truck and never any indications of this issue; I wonder what causes it?!?

 

Gorilla feet?

 

Well, if it sounds like a squeeky door, could be what 84Yota said, mine will squeek when I grab the cluth pedal and pull it side to side as well as pushing it in. I reinstalled the bracket on Sunday and only tested it yesterday due to weather, now I notice a "Squeeky Hing" sound but its nothing like the cracking/poping I once had. I am WD-40ing everything this evening. I could even have a top bolt loose, who knows... I'm going to keep looking for a used one to have for a spare, I feel this will break again.

 

just found this thread... my clutch is creaking a little.. and grinds slightly when I shift into 2nd gear... hoping it is just an adjustment.

will be inspecting this bracket tonight.

 

Everything is pretty well covered in this thread, but I did want to add this: Toyota has updated this part, and is now using a much better design. I don't remember how much it was, certainly more than having the old bracket welded, but worth it in my opinion.

The new design will not break anytime soon. It is what they should have used the first time.

 

Did any steering have to be removed??

 

Well then, time to go inspect that creak sound i've been hoping that wasn't a big deal while driving back to chico, leaving my welder back home lol.

I'm surprised this isn't a sticky, it seems pretty common and I didn't know about it until today.

 

So I checked my bracket looked and felt around for cracks, but there didn't seem to be any, I didn't take the dash apart.

So if I push on the clutch pedal and the bracket doesn't move that means I should probably be good?

 

Alright, just to follow up on my two posts, I found the crack on my bracket after checking again. Taking it out wasn't too hard, it was just a PITA. Instead of the brake pedal, I took down the steering column, which was just enough to pull the bracket out.

You can see the crack there...

Machine shop a couple blocks over welded it for free


Anyways, the whole thing was no biggie, got it done in about 2 hours or so in the parking lot at my dorm lol.

 

found a crack in mine in the same upper corner similar to a lot of folks on here. sounded like a plastic bottle popped. trying to figure out whether to weld it or buy a new one to put in. anyone know where to buy a new one for a good price? been looking at all the sites listed in the parts section and none of them seem to have them. . .

Also, for someone who isn't experienced with working on trucks, is this something i can screw up trying to get the bracket out? lol.

 

I had same creaking, squeaking noise when depressing clutch pedal, tough shifting, grinding etc. I kept adjusting out the master cylinder adjustment shaft, it finally made the popping, cracking noise, then no clutch. Started in first with clutch cancel, pretty easy to shift without clutch, just get your revs up over 3500 slide out and into next gear at about 2500 rpm, play with rev matching and you can shift virtually any car/truck without the the clutch and without grinding.

I looked under the dash and haven't seen a crack in the bracket yet but took the clutch master cylinder nuts off from inside the engine bay and found that the firewall is cracked. Not a speck of rust, bright red paint under the master cylinder gasket but cracked around the upper bolt hole. I'll get the bracket out tomorrow and inspect it but I am going to have fashion a couple plates to sandwich the firewall and reinforce it without being so thick that it requires the adjusting shaft to adjust out too far. ugh.

Edit 6/14/11: Looked under the dash this morning in much better light, yep the bracket is cracked. In retrospect I think I have been having the creaking/squeaking noise on and off for almost a year. Lesson learned, if you destroy the bracket and things still work, you can adjust the push rod enough to destroy the firewall given enough time. So I shall remove the bracket, get it welded, and fabricate a thin support plate to put on the engine side of the firewall.

 

wow how weak... I expect this to happen with modified sports cars, but not on these trucks!

 

Just finished mine... Thought for sure that my cluch master cylinder and/or slave cylinder were toast. Bought new ones, installed them, bleed them (for 2 freakin hours) and had the exact same problem. Clutch wouldn't disengage enough to get it in gear when it was running... Got under the dash to check it out and found the bracket broken and about bent out about 3/4". So I got to work, pulled out the steering column, and all the pedal switches and finally the bracket. I took mine down to the local 4X4 shop and they welded it up and reinforced it for me. Just got it all put back together and the clutch hasn't felt this good in along time!! Kinda a PITA but overall it turned out good!!

 

All these years I never knew this. I have had many problems with Toyota hydraulic clutches over the years and I contributed them to cheap aftermarket master and slave cylinders. I need to check my 94 pickup, 94 4Runner and my 93 pickup. This thread SHOULD BE A STICKY!!!!!!

James

 

Alright, I just sent Corey a message asking him to make this thread a sticky!!

James

 

Wow good info here!

I just got an 86 yota xtra cab and the clutch pedal was creaking. I put some spray lube on the hinge pins and it went away. I'll definitely keep my eye i mean ear on it.

I'll probably pull the bracket this winter some time and have my welder fix it up for me.

 

Sounds like this part could help too! Probably prevent shearing the firewall like in that above pic.

Definitely worth reinforcing the clutch pedal bracket though
to avoid trouble down the trail...

thanks all,
kirk

 

happened to me. i welded it up plated it and internally gusseted it. best part it was free and there is no way it is going to break again in the next 200k miles