If any of you saw my earlier threads about my clutch problems you will be interested to hear this.

The hard shifting I was experiancing was due to no failure of the clutch hydraulic system or the clutch itself. The large bracket that holds the clutch pedal and mounts to the firewall broke in 2 places. This caused the clutch to not fully engauge because when the pedal was depressed it actually pulled the push rod out rather than push it in creating negitive preassure in the system.

My mechanics were also supprised this was the problem. They removed the bracket and welded it back up, along with some extra support and 3 addittional bolts through the firewall. Unfourtunetly, the negitive preassure ruined the clutch master cylinder and I had them replace the slave as well at my request (it only cost $40).

Everything now works great. The only problem is the pedal feels different than it ever did before. Oh well, it will only take a week to get used to it.

Remember, if you ever hear a loud pop or a grinding noise under your dash it may be a broken clutch pedal bracket. Its hard to see all the parts of it give it a good and I mean good lookover. If you catch it soon enough, you can avoid the $100 master cylinder replacement. Just keep this in the back of your mind MT owners.

Total Cost = $350, Ouch coulda got sliderz for that, oh well, the mechanic gaurenteed his parts and work for 80,000 miles!


Lamm

 

I had the same problem in Feb - Cost $400. I lost all clutch function when I was in the mountains and had to drive 120 miles home crunching gears all the way!

 

That's just what I heard the day before yesterday!!! POP!.....then my hydro clutch felt like a cable clutch and made shifting next to impossible without jamming my foot down. I can barely get it into reverse.
Ordered new one from Toyota of Dallas, about $137, shipped. I will brace and weld the original to keep as a backup.

I plan to chronicle the repair procedure with pictures and a write-up, as I have seen people asking, yet none exist.

 

i thought that happened to me too (weld breaking)..but found only the master cylinder shaft unscrewed itself from the pedal arm.
heres a pic.(below) .if only for reference on our clutch pedals. and the very thin guage metal used for our brackets...
i thought they were govt. mandated to be "unbreakable"..is this not "recal worthy" ?

Death Couger warned me about this when i bought my truck, and this is my 3rd, "2nd gen" yota.
havent seen one fail yet, but being aware is important

 

Common...

new, and old.

 

Thats..... a bit strange......... no beyond strange.. Wouldnt the nut on the end of the bracket just fall off it its welds broke and allowed it turn? Last I looked it was literally welded to the fork that connects to the pedal bracket?

in your photo is still where it should...hell even in the position it should be. Also looks like (by where the locking nut is) it was pretty far out on the input shaft..maybe it just broke off? Mine is much further in on the shaft fyi

**could just be me but the splines on that input shaft dont look long enough, i remember having more room to play with

 

hmm, ok so maybe its not as long as i thought. I got intrigued so i went out and snapped a shot of mine,



of course they're different year trucks/tacomas... but i cant imagine the master cylinders really varied, they perform exactly the same task? I dont recal my shaft ( LOL sounds sooo wrong ) from turning on its own. Maybe in the later years they didnt make them as efficient?

 

Looking at the pictures it would appear that the pedal has some allowance for adjustment for functionality and "reach" [adjustable for shorter/longer legged drivers] maybe the po on that one that came loose just adjusted it incorrectly and the little bit of thread he had engaged just could'nt stand the strain.

 

SO to this:
Just bought a 99 tacoma, 5 speed 4x4.
Now the tranny seems to work perfect, no noise. No issues. EXCEPT its a bit harder than I would expect to shift, almost like not quite getting all the clutch. Theres no grinding when I shift, just a bit harder than im used to.

WOuld this be caused by out of adjustment screw down there?

 

I just had my bracket give out yesterday. For the last several months I noticed an occasional creaking sound when I would depress the clutch pedal sometimes more often in cold weather than warm. I can only assume that creaking was an indicator of the bracket starting to weaken?

Over the weekend I noticed the creaking sound was becoming more persistent and as I was driving along last night when I heard a loud "pop" and the pedal got mushy. I was able to shift gears to get me to the shop but it was a real workout. It's times like these that I wish I knew how to work on my own repairs and save some $$$

 

So how many threads should be showing on that adjuster. Mine is about half showing, and it feels as if I have very little clutch left.

 

Just got back from a short cruise. It was shifting great and then pop! Now it shifts like a beast when I'm moving and if I'm sitting still I can barely get it into 1st or reverse. Glad I found this thread. I figured it was the master cylinder. I can clearly see the break in the bracket in the upper left corner. Is this where they normally break?

Rob

 

mine was broke when i bought the truck. it'll only get worse if you don't fix it. i had to put all my weight on the clutch pedal and use both hands to shift before i got it fixed.

had a guy at work weld it back together, only cost me the time to take it out/put it back in and a case of beer for the guy that welded it

the PO had it held "together" with a wire hanger

 

Mine did that.. twice.. Fixed it once then it broke in another spot a few months later. I learned my lesson and when we fixed it the second time we also welded a new plate behind the bracket to strengthen it up. Hasn't failed me yet.

 

I got mine out today. What a pain in the ass. Here is the crack



Rob

 

x2...

Went wheeling saturday and all of a sudden i couldn't get my trans into gear while stopped


sure enough went outisde and wamo bracket is broken in the SAME upper corner.

 

I'm contemplating whether to buy a new one or have a welder weld the piss out of this one. If I could get 21 years out of a new one like I did this one (assuming this is the original) I would go that route. But if it's just going to break again why bother.

Rob

 

Man i think if you welded it up and even possibly put some bracing on it too it would be fine.

I have to ask, about how long does it take to get that bracket out. I have to take mine out and reweld it, and im just trying to get an idea about how long it will take. since i will have to get this done some day after school/work.

 

I did mine yesterday morning. I think it took about an hour or so to get it out. I could probably do it faster now that I know how to do it.

Rob

 

Okay an hour doesnt sound bad.

So you need to unbolt the master cylinder/clutch pedal/ and what exactly else?
any tips/recommendations. I guess removing the lower portion of the dash will help a bit eh?