SpeedCrazy

So how many miles between changes do y'all suggest?

mtnhrdgr2

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...filter-190242/

This link is an excellent discussion on oil filters.

I use Toyota OEM part# 90915-YZZD3 on my 1987 4Runner.

mtnhrdgr2

I partly agree with what arlindsay said. If you religiously change your oil at 3K miles all the time, then you can use any major brand conventional oil and any major brand oil filter. IMO, I would disagree that you can use 'any' brand.

With Syn, you can go longer. I know Syns are rated to go to 10K or higher. I personally would not go longer than around 7500 miles, but that is just my personal preference.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

No need to overthink things. The 22RE is not hard on oil and the odds of suffering a true lubrication failure are very very low. Run the correct weight of name-brand oil, a quality filter, change it 5000-7500 miles and worry about other things

Here's an interesting site that independently tests oil quality of all brands you can find on the shelf. Their findings confirm that one should stick with a name-brand oil such as Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc. and avoid stuff like "MaxiGuard" and "Everclear." Some of the specs on these esoteric oils are quite hilarious.

http://www.pqiamerica.com/

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I run Rotella 15-40 oil. Always have always will. I never had a engine problem caused by lubrication or oil pressure failures.

If I don't have a factory OEM filter then I will run a K&N filter. Both filters seem to due a damn good job and they never failed me.

I change my oil every 3000-3500 miles. Depending on my bank lol. I've been told not to change the Rotella until 5000 miles however I like 3000 better. At 3000 miles the Rotella still has that golden color when draining it. Not to mention I drop a can of sea foam into the crank case 300 miles prior to changing oil. This really keeps it clean.

This is a thread of preference. Everyone will have there own opinion on what oil and filter to use. I have used several different filter even some mentioned here. I've just grown custom to what I have listed above. My opinion comes from my experience not others.

Laurentian

Good tip on the sea foam T-B, will try it !
I'm a Rotella guy too, hehe.

Stetson_md

20w50 and either a purrolator clqsic or there's a specific fram one that is oversized ill use

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I'm a firm believer in seafoam. I use it in my fuel And crankcase.

SpeedCrazy

I have heard of seafoam before, but do tell; what exactly do you believe it does for your engine? I don't mean that to sound accusatory, just its use seems to be debatable and i want to know your opinion.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I can tell you this for a fact.... I purchased a 5.0 ford engine out of a salvage yard acouple years ago. When I popped the valve cover off it looked like tar was poured into the engine. (This is caused by cheap oil) after installing the engine I ran seafoam through it for the 1st three oil changes. Upon removing the valve cover all that junk was gone. I later had to remove the oil pan due to a leak and there was no chunks or anything in there. So that seafoam must dissolve that stuff and flush it out if the engine. When I was up in NJ my toyota kept throwing the code for TPS I bought some seafoam spray and squirted it all the the internals near the TPS and my code disappeared and hasn't been on since. As far as pouring into fuel..... Well lets say you get a stopped off injector. Try seafoam before you change out the injector and tell me your results.

Now I run seafoam regularly to prevent any unwanted sludge buildup in my engine. I assure you that I can pop my valve cover any day of the week and it will look as good today as if it did the day I assembled it. No burnt spots or anything. I'd recommend it to anyone without hesitation

SpeedCrazy

Hmm, sounds good. So you just dump the whole bottle in the oil filler cap and drive?

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

Yeah see the way I do it is about 300 to 500 miles prior to changing my oil I will add a entire can to my oil. Then change my oil after that 3 to 5 hundred miles.

Now the can says to add it to your oil upon changing the oil. But I do not do it that way. It's all in preference. I only add it to my gas once a month. That stuff cost 10 bucks a can so every fill up gets expensive.

There's hundreds of reviews on SeaFoam floating around google. Don't take just my word check out some others.

If you start using it then I do have a small request from you. Remove your Valve cover and snap a pic of your internals. Then after a month or two of using it remove the valve cover and take another pic. Compare them then tell me whatcha think. If your head has that burnt golden yellow look. I bet it starts turning silver again. Guaranteed.... Or your money back lol.

Oh now if you add it at every oil change be sure to fill your truck up all the way with oil. Then add the SeaFoam. Don't substitute a court of oil for SeaFoam.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

You can also use the spray can through a vacuum hose to clean out the upper plenum and intake. But be sure to hold the throttle half open or it will kill the engine. It will start right back up if it dies. And doing it this way is a awesome bug repellant... Your truck will blow out some major white smoke. that's how I fixed my TPS.. I only did this one time and it really took alot of carbon buildup out of my plenum. I can see bare aluminum in spots when I remove my intake tube. And my butterfly is nice and silver now to. But spraying it through the intake is tricky cause of that air box... If you take a stick and hold the flapper open your truck will run without the intake tube hooked up. That's how I sprayed it directly into the upper plenum

SpeedCrazy

I'm gonna have to try that. And I will definitely post pics when i do.
Thanks for all your advice Toyota~Boy, and the rest of y'all as well.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

If you're worried about crud buildup in your engine Kreen by Kano Labs is also an excellent product. It has alot more interesting stuff in it than Seafoam.

Seafoam: http://www.mta.ca/administration/fac...Co.%202010.pdf

- "Pale oil", Naptha, and isopropyl alcohol

Kreen: http://www.kanolabs.com/msds/kreen_liquid.pdf

- Petroleum products plus ketones and other stuff
- And it smells *evil*

phlorit

I'm all synthetic.. have run multiple motors and the rest of the rig will fall apart long before the engine.. go about 5 to 7k before changing.. I agree with OEM filters.. also have run Amsoil in several rides.. not sure if its any better, but my 230k F250 diesel seems to like it.

I'm not a fan of conventional oil. It simply breaks down much faster. Europeans laugh at us for the amount of oil we throw away.. they are all synthetic and change once a year no matter how much they drive.. not recommending this but food for thought.

rattlewagon

fourwheeler did an oil filter shoot out, and just happened to test 22R oil filters..

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ot-out-248054/

SpeedCrazy

Thanks for that link, very interesting thread.

Laurentian

Toyota seems like the clear winner

RSR

Head on over to BobIsTheOilGuy and read through their motor oil university: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
Their boards are also great for everything oil and filter...

Also, you want the biggest oil filter you can fit for add'l capacity for both filtering (avoiding/reducing the use of the bypass valve) and for add'l cooling. I think the YZZD3 fits the 22re. It's what the Toyota V8s use but what a lot of folks use on the 22re.

As of the past five years or so, Toyota switched oil filter production from Japan to Thailand -- well, at least for the American market (American consumers didn't want the best filter, they wanted the cheapest ones and to compete with the cheap Fram and AC Delcos, both quality and production methods had to change to reduce costs). That change had some substantial reduction in quality/components... They're still a good filter, but not as good as they used to be... I have a stock of the old Toyota Resin filters (note the current w/ same part number are paper Thai filters and in between D1 and D3 in sizes -- resin are same size as the D3) that should last me the next decade I hope.
Of aftermarket filters, the Mobil One Premium is the same as TRD & K&N I think. And definitely a little cheaper than the two. The Purolator PureOne (yellow, not white) filter gets very good reviews as well, but isn't as robust as the Mobil One Premium. Royal Purple is similar to the Mobil1, TRD, and K&N, with a slightly upgraded filter media... Same as w/ Toyota go w/ the YZZD3, V8 Tundra equivalent size instead of the smaller 22re ones.
EDIT: Amsoil filters are a good option too.
See here for some size listings: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51439035

On oil, you'll get the drift over at Bob's but go w/ synthetic and the smallest first weight 5w, 10w, etc -- go w/ 0 or 5 -- as this is the weight/viscosity at cold and the higher the number the less oil flow and more wear your engine sees until it's warmed. The second number should be consistent w/ factory recommendations. The only caveat being a lower first number might leak more when engine is cold than alternatives. I think the Castrol Ti oil is a great value. $25 per 5 quarts at WalMart.

And if going to synthetic, do yourself a favor and do a flush. I was very impressed w/ the Amsoil Engine Flush, really quieted down and smoothed out my engine and my oil's color turned from tea to coffee (despite using synthetic oil for, well, at least the past 80k miles). It's detergent and not a solvent so is easier on the engine too. Amsoil actually recommends every oil change, but at least once a year or two wouldn't hurt.

Lastly, depending on when your engine was last rebuilt and how long you want to run your engine, consider getting a TopDogV remote bypass system (have to call them to order, their web store has been down for months). And regardless of filtration, the add'l oil capacity and cooling from these types of system are big boost to your engine's lifetime. Best of the kind I've seen, can add magnets if you so choose, and utilizes the Amsoil Remote High Filtration Bypass Filters:
Think that covers it...