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I will definitely use the MONSTER SIZED Purolator PL30001 in my 94 P/U 22re on the next Oil Change. I think my local PepBoys carries these.
I had the STP oil filter and did an oil/filter change after the truck was sitting for a couple days. To my surprise the filter was absolutely DRY! I guess the "anti-drainback" valve didn't exactly "anti". I got REALLY worried that something was really wrong. I had bought the Bosch filter for this change, but will switch to the larger PL30001.
Has anyone tried one of those Billet Aluminum slip-on Oil Filter Heat-Sink Coolers?
I would not bother with it (but don't let me stop you if it sounds like fun). The engine oil temp is controlled by the coolant temp, so unless you have a cooling problem there's no need for extra oil cooling.
Actually, one of the primary functions of oil is cooling...
Oil gets to and cools a lot of places that coolant can't.
My recommendation would be a top dog 5/V bypass setup with an amsoil filter on that. And then add the billet aluminum cooler to the amsoil bypass filter.
You have to call, but I think they're still selling: http://www.paretopoint.com/
The ideal setup IMO. (Yes, the bypass filters more which is great, but the increased oil volume also helps tremendously with cooling -- more important on the 3vze than 22re but a solid mod nonetheless -- and a lot of 3vzes even have the oil to water plate coolers on them.)
When my 94 is back on the road, I am going to use the PL30001 Pure One filter with this Filtermag. I have been using Filtermags on all my vehicles for well over ten years now including 96 F350, 99 Jeep Cherokee, 88 4Runner, 09 Ford Escape and currently my 94 4Runner. I have one on the hydro transmission's filter of my 78 International Cub Cadet 1250. It's not hype....they just plain work. I still have the first filter that I ran it on and cut open. If anyone is interested in pics, let me know and I will post one up. Pure genius and simple physics. It collects metal particles below the 10 micron mark and probably below the average clearance of an engine at 4 to 6 microns...and holds it against the wall of the filter where there is full flow. Check them out...
About the added capacity and filtering area of the 30001, I believe adding a little more oil would def. not hurt but help to keep the oil temp in check. I also like the added filtering capacity of the bigger filter as well. The lower the temp of the oil, the longer it will last. I'm not saying it will significantly reduce the oil temp but it has to have some effect. And I do believe in pre- filling filters as I have done always...esp. with the 30001 as I don't like the sounds of the motor as the filter is filling up w oil. I have a remote mount that I want to use and mount possibly where the vacuum container was for the ADD (deleting my ADD system).
While I am a full believer in synthetic oil, I don't run it in my 94 until I do the leaking rear main when it's time for the clutch. A common myth about synthetic oil is that it causes leaks. The truth is that it does a better job at keeping the internal parts cleaner (because the more complex additive package) than dino oil and hence, will clean up all the gunk that forms from dino oil inside the motor and suspect, weak seals will then begin to leak because all the gunk is now gone. A lot of the gunk forms when routine oil changes are extended or not performed. And synthetic oil will resist baking onto the inner parts, flow better in winter and perform better...esp. if you drive hard or abuse your engine.
I've heard of Seafoam but was always leary of adding it to the oil to clean out the inside of the motor. This affects the viscosity of the oil by thinning it out, it has to...you're essentially diluting your oil. This would have to affect all the moving parts such as bearings, lifters, rings, timing chain, etc...causing more wear. Just my opinion.
Another interesting fact that intrigues me is the use of heavier weight oil than what is factory spec (10w30). I prefer 5w30 for my 22re. I'm not knocking anyone, but just curious as to why some would use 15w40 or 20w50 as I have seen here (maybe they get it for free....). I remember trying Rotella 15w40 (someone told me about the higher zinc content in it) in my 96 Ford in the 351W and before it was warm...it was waayyy too noisy for too long. It could have been the cold weather (oops). I'm just curious as to the advantage of running a heavier oil when the engine was designed to run on thinner oil. Thicker oil may not be able to sufficiently get into the places that the thinner oil would like main bearings.
The FSM's maintenance specs for the 2.4 and the 3.0 are 3.75k miles for severe duty and 7.5K miles for normal duty. If anyone is worried about the filter going too long with the longer "Normal" factory drain period, you could always change out the filter halfway through. But I see no reason except personal preference to change oil at 3000 mile mark unless you truly work and/or beat your motor...as described in the severe duty maintenance section. I've gone anywhere from 5000 miles to 7500 miles on my Yotas with no problems. But to say again, to each his own. And stick to name brand oils such as Mobil, Pennzoil, Valvoline...etc. I like to buy whatever oil/Pure One filter combo is on sale at Advance or go buy the 5 qt jugs at Wally World for $25...
**Disclaimer - This was just DaveD5150's opinion and is not to be taken as gospel, as a "shot" to what you are doing or that I believe I "know" it all. Opinions are like donkey holes...everybody got one. Take this as you will...and move on. I wasn't talking directly to you...forums are supposed to be fun. Happy Father's Day boys!**
Last edited by daved5150; 06-15-2014 at 09:29 AM.
Reason: add to post
Know this is a late post but for my 22RE 93 4x4, I use either Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Platinum 10w-30 OR M1 High Mileage 10W-30 plus Toyota OEM YZZD1 filter with OIC at 5,000 miles. Sometimes it takes me a year to reach 5,000 miles so I change oil and filter after 6 months.
1000 to 3000 miles per change? You're just throwing away money. If the oil is only in there that long you could use the crappiest oil and filter and still be fine.
I've run into this with two exsact same motors in three months one had 1000 miles on it and the other more but that 1000 miles was all six to ten mile around town trips. The oil was a lot darker coming out. So I tend to do the same thing but it was a waste of time changing the oil in the other engine that had less than 3000 miles. That oil looked brand new as I was dumping it out. Too late then as it went into the dirty oil pan.
I've ran Toyotas for 25 years, most of them 22res. I've always ran the Fram filter and never had a problem. But I always change oil every 3000 miles. Ran Castrol GTX for years, because that was what my dad ran. Switched to Quaker state about 10 years ago when there was an oil shortage and there wasn't any Castrol on the shelf when it came time to change oil, wasn't the next time either so I stuck with Quaker State. I grew up being told it wasn't good to switch brands of oil in a vehicle, I don't honestly believe that is true but, I stick with Quaker State for the Toyotas (my 2009 I run Mobil 1 syn) and Delo for the Diesels. I've put 400,000 on a 3.4 without touching it and 350,000+ on multiple 22re motors. Mine tend to get a lot of off highway, slow speed, and light towing use. Also a lot of deep snow driving in winter, so I'll stick to the 3000 mile change on the older motors.
Also I tried synthetic in two trucks (back at the oil shortage time) a 22re and a 3.4, both trucks had a couple hundred thousand miles, both started leaking oil with synthetic, went to Quaker State conventional oil and the leaks dried up. I'm a believer in synthetic, I run it in my 09 2.7 and all my ATV/4 stroke snowmachines, but I won't run it in these older motors that have been used with conventional oil for years.
I should note, the 3.4 was an honest untouched at 400k, closest I came to getting in the motor was replacing a bad injector. 22res always had the timing chain changed and one or two had a head gasket, etc. but I've only ever rebuilt 2 at less than 350,000. One probably didn't need it, just the first motor I put 300k on and I thought it should be redone. The current 89 looked brand new inside and out with 130k on it when I bought it, but at 140k it spun a rod and when I tore it apart I could see silicone smeared around that someone had already been into the motor.
Oil is the lifeblood of these motors, brand isn't as important as changing it regular and not running them low.
06-08-2014, 08:52 PM
