Why don't you buy some strips of that plastic like stuff they make cutting boards out of. Its super hard and slippery as hell on rocks. You can countersink bolts into it. Especially if you have the flat based rock slider you can put a 1/2" or thicker strip on there and it will last. A lot of DIY guys you do that for under-armor. BUt it would be great for slider too. I plan on doing this to several things on my truck including when i make a square front driveshaft. and want it to be smooth and quiet.

Wood is a very bad idea. Good thinking, but not a good idea. It can crab or bite into stuff. Snap n' Splinter. If it breaks right it can twist around up n bust something on your truck.

 

No point of having sliders if they are cosmetic, want that get a set of chrome nerf bars.
Seems like a line-x would just peal.
Cheap rattle can works fine, easy touch up and no freaking out when the $150+ coating is destroyed...

 

Indeed.

 

For the record we were only joking in our discussion about wood (2x4s) to protect the sliders... that being said if you do have wood bumpers or the like Epifanes is the varnish you want to use.

 

im a fan of poly-acrylic.

 

The bottom and back side/first coat on all my stuff is gloss black rattlecan. The top/everything visible from the exterior is rattlecan bedliner. It's my favorite spray paint. Holds up well and gives a good footing for your feet. I've sprayed my truck armor, motorcycle, plastics on my Yamaha scooter, and a few misc things with it - so far it's held up great! It is a little pricey at around $10 each, but once Lowes had it yellow tagged at $7.50 so I bought a half dozen cans. I think I'm on my last one now

If you wanna get really trick with it, I saw the Xtreme4x4 guys cover a tube chassis with it for texture, then went over it with a metallic silver, then last coat was a transparent red. Final results was a textured metallic red, pretty sweet IMO.

 

Just to let you guys know undercoating is not the way to go. Far too soft to hold up to anything. Ended up blasting it back off so I guess is just regular rattle can for me.

 

Hmm, If only someone would have recommended that in the first place....oh wait...

Live and learn I guess. haha.

 

Undercoating like the asphalt coating is brutal.. I guess the point of it is to never cure or get hard but man, I painted my KC housings with that stuff thinking it acted like bedliner and a month later I'm still finding it all over my hands when I touch my lights..

Cheapo spray can for rockers that work, powder coating if you're for show. A friend of mine has a TG rear bumper he powdercoated and afterwards got rear ended.. Barely a scratch in the finish but I wouldn't rely on powdercoating for rock sliders.

 

Real champs clear-coat the bare steel right after welding (leave the slag on), for that heavy-duty-industrial look.

 

^ I would do that if I had pirate4x4 quality looking welds...but alas, not yet.

 

SERIOUSLY!!!!! Make a side holster that fits a can of black spray paint.

Test your quick draw

wait for that rust then strike.

Truth is there is no subtaince on earth that can withstand the test of offroad.
bashing against rocks and trees, come'on!!!!

As long as the cage is good, you just throw a-little paint on there once and a while and your good. Hunt the rust.

P.S. Powder coating and line-X are very tough, but problem is when,, "not if", they do chip or break off, theres big chunks missing and impossible to repair. Ends up looking like ----. Good old spray paint.





Nothin well used ever looked new