dub tek

ALL 3 of these spots make the adapter needed
I see the AA kit allows 21 spline boxes in front+rear (This I like cause its what I have)
The output of the R150F is 23 spline but there they include as 23>21 tube

Finding JUST the rear half is going to be nearly impossible.......
been hunting for 2 solid days and google keeps kicking me to the same 4 or 5 pages, this being one of them.. lol
I did find a thread on pirate with dead pics from 2008 about this same ass half case swap.. It also mentioned swapping a few shifter parts too..
That being the "icing on MY cake" I feel an adapter will get ordered today!!!!






OK > Now for the part of this I know well > Volkswagens!!! (see blue link in sig)
There are a few rigs around with this swap that I have followed builds on...
Here on yotatech and TDIClub among others

Im using an ACME adapter kit
Has the adapter plate Engine>Bellhousing AND dual drilled Flywheel (Yota + VW)
ALL of the Flywheel,PSIplate,Disk IS proper > internal to the bellhousing (Starter IDK about yet.....)

The swap does require me to FAB engine mounts
(Most folks I see with this swap are reusing the W56+associated ORIGINAL driveline)

Seeing as my engine swap requires me to fab mounts
AND im adding the dual cases wich requires me to fab the cross member and mounts
THIS leads me to believe I will have free reign of install location
Forward is a MUST for me!! (Plumbing/electricals/coolant port/other bs)

^^ Bad part of this for me >> Drive shaft angles...
I have been reading up on this as our install angles are WACK at vw/audi and everything is constant velocity joints VS ujoints
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...line-101.shtml


I have x3 double Ujoints knuckles for donors all from front IFS trucks
And a fourth thats installed on my rig still
Trying to decide whats the BEST option for what joint at what location at what axle....
I plan to do plenty of highway driving (nearest real trail is a 3HR drive)
Then when I finally reach a destination I can play hard with the duals

dub tek

^^ STATEMENT OF THE CENTURY RIGHT THERE!!!!


The VW is "counterflow" head
AKA air IN+Out on what was the rear
Will now all be passenger side located.. (Less then ideal!!!)
As for exhaust we get 3" pipes into some silly places
VW land as taught me to fab in very tight places
So im assuming it will be a half day with the chop saw and the Tig


My real crutch is the TOYOTA specific bits...
if it be the actual gear boxes or the little BS parts down to axle flange patterns and slip yoke lengths
The swap game is gained from time spent with the parts
I have limited donor goods so here we are
HAHA

aztoyman

I don't understand your drive shaft angle problem. You will have a Toyota truck with Toyota T-case with flanges going to Toyota diffs with flanges. Why won't Toyota drive shafts work?

There are three and five pattern flanges available to fit just about any Toyota pattern out there.

As far as tight clearance with exhaust, there are plenty of heat wraps and shielding available.

You could also buy just about any dual case crossmember out there and fab up a mounting surface for the bolts if you didn't want to fab up an entire crossmember.

kornhuskerwizard

nice thread info guys!! AZTOYMAN that is a sweet tcase setup!!! I think i seen your rig on marlin website as well?? Good luck on the vw swap!!

dub tek

Maybe my wording was bad....

I plan to use all toyota drive shafts + parts.. Just need to adjust the lengths


I just dont know whats best for ME in the rear!!!
> Single U-Joint's at both ends of shaft
> Double U-Joint at front Single at Rear

It WILL see LOTS of open road, loaded with camping gear and my KingQuad on a trailer...





VS.

dub tek

Have X2 of these on order
1 At TCase output (rear) other at rear axle 3rd input


I dont know why i didnt think to modify an existing dual crossmember
Thats a great idea!!!!

dub tek

Once I have all these parts in hand and assembled
I hope to have some good pics posted
May help someone answer some of the same questions i had




Im still new to this toyota game and really appreciate all the help!!!

The VW side of this I have under control
My donor TDI makes 154 HP 312LB/Ft @ 2100RPM at the front wheels on a VW
Im guessing about 165/335 at the crank >> Sure HOPE its enough
If not Ill add more boost HAHA....



v v v - VW TDI AUDIO - v v v
BELOW HERE IS A BLACK SCREEN VIDEO "audio only" of my TDI



^^ ABOVE HERE IS A BLACK SCREEN VIDEO ^^
VW tdi motor noise

aztoyman

My stock non CV driveshaft was fine until I lifted my truck 4". My driveshaft angles were within limits but I had a vibration that sounded like my trans or t-case was about to grenade. Drive shaft had new U-joints and was balanced.

It was worse when coasting or light load and I didn't believe it was my drive shaft causing it. Super bad when slowing down from 80mph on an off ramp. Sounded like a bad bearing in my trans. I tore apart the trans and t-case and found nothing. A lot of work for nothing.

I finally gave in and had a CV added to the rear shaft and bought new spring perches so I could rotate the axle up for proper CV angles. (Which is better for clearance off road)

No more noise! Smooth, quiet and tucked up out of the way.

aztoyman

Kornhusker, Yep that is me on Marlin.

dub tek

^^^ THIS is exactly the real world info I was after
CV shaft I pulled from a front is going to get lengthened and become my rear
unless there is a stock rear CV shaft from Toyota..


Ordered my Advanced Adapter R150F>Gear Driven Transfer case kit from LROR today...
I hope to have it for next weekend!!!

aztoyman

I used my original front CV when I did my SAS. Non CV in front now.

There are posts out there on Pirate and 4Crawler on how to clearance the CV for more angle. I "THINK" the early types like 1985 have more angle.

My 88 needed to be clearanced which I did. I also lost a needle bearing from the center bearing like all the how to's tell you not to do. Not available from Toyota. I did find one company that made the bearing. It had loose tolerance and the drive line shop couldn't get it balanced. I ran it but had a slight vibe at highway speed.

When I went duals and 3.4 I thought I was good to go using my 99 4Runner donor rear CV drive shaft. Had the drive shaft shop swap out the CV with my loose one when they shortened up the rear drive shaft. Balanced out fine. Wouldn't bolt up to my 3 pattern flanges!!

The CV from the 99 had a 66mm x 66mm bolt pattern. Marlin sells a 5 pattern flange that has it covered but they have been back ordered forever. I'm not waiting.

I took the flange off the 99 T-case. Doesn't fit my gear drive case so I stuck my 3 pattern flange on the CV and two of the holes lined up and two were off about half a hole. Welded those two up and re drilled the two of them so it would work. What a pain in the arse.

So.........BEWARE YOUR BOLT PATTERN!

dub tek

All my donor parts and what Im assembling for gearbox/crawl stack is all 93 AND EARLIER
I hope this keeps me in the 3 basic patterns
OR better yet Id love to run all 1 size across the truck
Keeps it easy

I really wish I had a huge pile of random parts to use as test fitters
NOTHING like having my hands and eyes on the stuff VS guessing...

dub tek

Im back........
lol

Got my Advanced Adapter in the mail....
Have most everything in place now
Layout all checks for fitment and such
Some minor odds and ends to handle
Few OE Dealer ONLY parts to order
But its getting close to a complete parts stack!!!


Last issue is gaskets
I see gasket ONLY kits from $40 and up
Im thinking I may snatch a sheet of gasket paper and get my trace on.....
Anyone else do this?







The rundown left to right
ACME plate > vw
22RET bellhousing (Had to counter sink my holes for dowels)
V6 R151F Tranz (Stock)
Advanced adapter 23>21 kit
Gear Drive reduction 21 Spline
Trail Gear 21 kit
Gear Drive Reduction + 4X4 Drop 21 Spline

aztoyman

Is it the R150F with a 22RET Bell?

You are running 21 spline because it's what you had? Sorry, I didn't want to go back through the whole thread.

Lookin good. Especially the shiny new parts.

I ran those t-case mounts for a while. Work well but you feel and hear the drive train. I went back to stock mounts.

You can buy the gaskets individually from toyomotorparts.com or others. Pretty cheap too.

osv

you don't need gaskets between the trans and transfer cases, just degrease everything thoroughly, and use permatex ultra grey.

awesome thread!

I almost got those triple sticks from davez, but I ended up installing tg twin sticks instead, we'll see how it holds up.

osv

i'm in the middle of this exact situation, except that I already have the rear axle housing rotated up, no cv in the driveshaft... what I found the other day is that when you put the rear housing up on jackstands, with the motor running, in first gear, rev it up a bit, on deceleration you can hear the noise coming from the gear box end where the driveshaft hooks up... just like it sounds on the road.

I do have a bit of play in that rear flange area, but i'm bummed to think that i'll need a cv joint in there :-(

cv's are a pain, if you don't constantly grease that center joint, it'll go out on you... I have a front axle like that, everything is good but the center cv, and they are a nightmare to take apart... I couldn't even pound the regular u-joints out of it... maybe I need to revisit the issue.

at any rate, you used to be able to get the cv parts from Rockford drive line, but the last time that I checked with rockauto, they weren't in the rockauto catalog any longer.

i'll attempt to add the Rockford driveline catalog, if anyone wants to search for specific part numbers.
toyotaCardanParts.pdf

aztoyman

Without a CV your flanges should be parallel. Rotated toward t-case is for CV.

I never had a CV fail. I lost a needle bearing when I took it apart to clearance it. I'm sure I have the part number for the special center bearing. They are available but have loose tolerance making it almost impossible to balance.

aztoyman

I never made gaskets for my cases. Should work fine. Use proper thickness.

RTV or FIPG is fine also. I prefer gaskets in case I want to take it apart. I hate cleaning off the old stuff and it makes it difficult to separate.

I have even reused the OEM gaskets without leaks. I use a little white grease or WD-40 on them so they don't tear when you pull them apart.

osv

I think you are right, there is at least a 5 degree difference in the flange surfaces :-/ fark, I thought that I was over this with the front axle.

you probably maintained your cv's by regularly greasing 'em... that center grease fitting can be very difficult to access, so i'm thinking that the p.o. on my truck ignored it.

when my cases didn't come apart easily, I was kinda lost at first, lol... eventually I found out that there are a couple of raised areas that you can beat on, so I used a 2x4 for a drift, and they came apart pretty easily.

thanks for the pointers about the rear driveshaft, appreciate it! i'd rather gamble on a rear cv driveshaft than have to pull and disassemble that trans again.

dub tek

Yes
151 bell
150 gearbox

Yes 21/21 cause thats what I had for donors
AND the TG adapter I got used for $100 was 21 already

Ordered some gasket paper sheets
Im going to DIY my own

Never knew about the spray them before use so they peel easy trick using the WD40!!!