BATT./ LACK OF POWER issues
#1
BATT./ LACK OF POWER issues
got a 88 yota p/u 22re 4 banger. so my brand new battery is already kickin the bucket. only one month old, also new 60 amp ALT, new belts, valve adjustment, cap, rotor and wires, plugs, terminals. the battery is reading 9.5V and i had to jump it three times now. does the battery have to be rated for the output of the Altenator so it can keep a proper charge or what? the battery is 750 CCA's 12V. After i got it jumped i took it around the block and it started to sputter out and loose power untill i had to coast it into the drive where it kicked the bucket all on its own.no idle at all just done. Now i ran some seafoam through the intake last week and im not sure it did what was supposed to happen. i got no white smoke at all. anyone have any ideas on the two problems i got.
Last edited by jaredhicks; 03-14-2013 at 05:47 PM.
#2
If the truck dies after its started, it shouldn't be a battery issue but rather an alternator issue. Maybe you could have the alternator tested and also make sure it is hooked up correctly. It sounds like it is faulty or not hooked up right. Even a ground wire not being bolted on to the right place can mess with things.
#3
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Remove & clean ALL ground wires to engine, frame, & body.
If that doesn't help, I'm sure it's the alternator. Likely a regulator diode going out as that will actually drain your batter when the engine is off. It will get progressively worse. I suggest a rebuild of your old Denso alternator. Search here & you will find some threads on a company in California called "Boyles Future Tech" or something similar. They will increase your stock Denso to @ 130 amps for under $200 last time I checked. Excellent work.
If that doesn't help, I'm sure it's the alternator. Likely a regulator diode going out as that will actually drain your batter when the engine is off. It will get progressively worse. I suggest a rebuild of your old Denso alternator. Search here & you will find some threads on a company in California called "Boyles Future Tech" or something similar. They will increase your stock Denso to @ 130 amps for under $200 last time I checked. Excellent work.
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A battery reading 9.5v is completely discharged. So completely that it has probably been damaged.
First things first: is your voltmeter accurate? If it is, put the battery on a charger and see if you can get it to hold a charge (incidentally, at 9.5v, modern chargers will "conclude" the battery is damaged and won't try to charge it. Since you haven't much to lose, you could try a low (2amp?) charge to see if anything happens.)
Next, once you've got the battery charged (or replaced) and the truck running, is the alternator doing anything? The voltage at the battery while running should be 13.9v-15.1v. If only 12.6 (or lower) your alternator is not charging.
If not charging, check the voltage at the big ("B") wire on the alternator itself. Also 13.9-15.1; if that one's good you've got a broken "B" wire.
OR, you can jump right in and start screwing with all your ground wires and rebuilding your brand-new alternator. But a little diagnosis first could help direct your efforts.
First things first: is your voltmeter accurate? If it is, put the battery on a charger and see if you can get it to hold a charge (incidentally, at 9.5v, modern chargers will "conclude" the battery is damaged and won't try to charge it. Since you haven't much to lose, you could try a low (2amp?) charge to see if anything happens.)
Next, once you've got the battery charged (or replaced) and the truck running, is the alternator doing anything? The voltage at the battery while running should be 13.9v-15.1v. If only 12.6 (or lower) your alternator is not charging.
If not charging, check the voltage at the big ("B") wire on the alternator itself. Also 13.9-15.1; if that one's good you've got a broken "B" wire.
OR, you can jump right in and start screwing with all your ground wires and rebuilding your brand-new alternator. But a little diagnosis first could help direct your efforts.
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