Catamount

Researching to start water pump repair to include timing belt replacement. Do the camshaft pulleys really have to be removed to replace the belt? Also I need a good suggestion for a tool or way to hold the Crankshaft pulley. As I understand the pulley and damper must be removed.

Brokedown

When I did mine, I didnt touch the cam sprockets. My truck is a 5 speed, so I just left it in gear and applied the parking brake, and that held it tight enough for me to break the crank bolt loose and also re torque it when I was done.

buckz6319

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/

Catlin

It is much easier to put the belt on with the cam wheels removed. Note that the wheels are not identical. Taking them off is a problem but see below. To put the belt back on, replace the seals behind the wheels. This is easy with them off. Then string the new belt on the marks around the crank sprocket and put on the right (driver's ) pulley. No need to torque it yet. Route the belt through its course and over the right wheel and under the center tensioner. Use light clamps to hold the belt in place. Then lastly put the left wheel on the belt at the marks and put the wheel with belt on the shaft together. Don't try to rotate the belt yet. You must then pull the tensioner pin and retorque. Its easy to retorque the cam bolts to 80 with a holder tool. Same with the largercrank bolt, but you need another tool for it. I have had good results by making wood holder tools. Here is a what I wrote in a recent post, somewhat edited:

"You will find that taking off the cam wheels is a challenge. They are torqued far more than the 80# called for, even 250-300. A steel tool is good if you can fab it. I have had good luck making a tool out of 2 x 6 pine. Use a hole saw at the end of a 2-3 ft piece to drill a socket hole.Then drill 2 holes beside it for 3 inch -3/8 diameter bolts. These stick through the board and will hold the cam spokes firmly. A similar tool can be made for the crank pulley bolt removal. You have to drill 4 holes in the 2 x 6 for it and buy 4 eight mm bolts at the hardware store to screw through the board into the pulley holes. Use the little outer pulley as a template for the holes. Make the holes a bit larger than 8mm so you have some wiggle room. Three bolts will hold it if you can't line up the fourth. Its a lot easier to work with wood than steel. The 2 x 6 easily handles the job. Don't use spruce - too soft.

Brace the free end of the 2 X 6 against the frame or the ground (for the crank pulley). and off they will come. Use it again to torque the bolts back on. It feels good when you make your own tools.

I complement Brokedown if he could hold and tighten his crank bolt the way he described. If you can do it, more power to you.

Brokedown

Hey im not going to lie, I had air tools to get every thing apart. But once everything was back together and timed thats when I used the e-brake to torque everything down.

Catlin

I believe you! That would be better than using a tool. I think I had my 4runner on jack stands and would not want to make the car lurch off of them. Its easy to get the crank bolt loose with the starter and a breaker bar but torquing it back is the problem. A tool does give one more control. Catamount will need a tool if he takes the cam wheels off though.

turborich

Why would you need to pull the cam gears? The only reason that I can see removing them is if the seals are leaking, otherwise I would leave them on.

Catlin

You are correct that the wheels don't need to come off. I've done it both ways, and I had a lot of trouble fitting the timing belt and lining up all the marks with both wheels on. Maybe there is a trick to it. With them off it was a breeze.

Catamount

Thanx Catlin I don't have the tools to work with metal either. Your idea works great. After removing the four mounting bolts I used the front half of the pulley as a templet and a scrape of hard wood.

Catamount

My seals are fine on a budget and have to afford extra tools and shop supplies. getting the belt on with cams in place and with everything lined up wasn't a problem. With belt lined up with dot on crank I slightly backed LH cam CW pulled as much slack out of belt and line up belt mark with LH cam mark. Very important hold the crank as still as possible (I used pulley nut and wrench) then CCW re-align LH cam, belt mark and cover mark. This pulls all the slack out of this side makes sliding the belt onto RH cam simple and sends remaining slack to be taken up by tensioner and its pulley.