The Ball Joint spacer/Cruiser Coil - Longer Shock P/N thread
#341
OK apparently rear non tank side spring is the short so for a short set it takes 1 spring from 2 fj80s to make a short set or just grab tge rears and stick the longer one on the gas tank side.
#343
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I've gone thru 14 pages and I am confused on which LC coils to use and what years and now it's even more confusing on which spring is it, that you use the long coil or the short coil and which side and then on top of that do you use to short coils or two long coils all together, from what I have gathered here so far, you use the long coils on the gas tank side is that correct and the short coil on the driver side, am I right so far, and then are we using the rear coils off of a Landcrusier is that corect not the front coils am right here so far. Cause I have my stash of parts to finish this but it is very confusing can somebody clarify this or did I hit the nail on the head.
1. 1.5 BJ spacers
2. Rancho RS 5167 for the front and Rancho RS 5009 for the rear
3. extended brake line, LSV bracket, and do I still need the P/Hard drop bracket?
4. Which Crusier coils do I use and what year should I get them from or is there a part number so I can buy them brand new and do I need the long and short coil or do I use two short coils or is it two long coils? That is were it gets confusing.
This is a great thread just a little confusing let's keep it up with some pics
1. 1.5 BJ spacers
2. Rancho RS 5167 for the front and Rancho RS 5009 for the rear
3. extended brake line, LSV bracket, and do I still need the P/Hard drop bracket?
4. Which Crusier coils do I use and what year should I get them from or is there a part number so I can buy them brand new and do I need the long and short coil or do I use two short coils or is it two long coils? That is were it gets confusing.
This is a great thread just a little confusing let's keep it up with some pics
#344
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1. 1.5 BJ spacers
2. Rancho RS 5167 for the front and Rancho RS 5009 for the rear
3. extended brake line, LSV bracket, and do I still need the P/Hard drop bracket?
4. Which Crusier coils do I use and what year should I get them from or is there a part number so I can buy them brand new and do I need the long and short coil or do I use two short coils or is it two long coils? That is were it gets confusing.
This is a great thread just a little confusing let's keep it up with some pics
#346
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LC coil info.
Here is some additional info for this thread: Van posted in a LC coils for sale post(look the post up by going to his signiture and look through his posts) He states, "use FJ80 rear land cruiser coils with 7 wraps for 90-95 4Runners and that will give you about 3.75 inches of lift...if you use the ones with 8 wraps it will give you about 4.5 inches of lift (7 wraps are a better match for front with BJ spacers) LC front coils can be used to lift the rear of the (96to 02 4Runner." Thanks for that info Van.
#347
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I have tried the Rancho RS99272 shock for over a year now with the ball joint spacers. I had to do 2 mods to make it work..first mod was to remove the stock upper snubber and replace it with an Energy suspension conical snubber trimmed down to the first level. I had it on the second level from the bottom but finally trimmed it flat to its max for better A Arm clearance. use of the stock snubber will bind the ball joint.
the second mod was to cut the lower top shock bushing in half to allow the suspension to hit the lower bumpstop without compressing the shock first. If you have non factory snubbers this shock will be too long compressed
the second mod was to cut the lower top shock bushing in half to allow the suspension to hit the lower bumpstop without compressing the shock first. If you have non factory snubbers this shock will be too long compressed
Last edited by milowilli; 07-01-2009 at 03:36 PM.
#348
Well from what I've read one LC coil is longer than the other and some people get two sets and either use the longer ones or the shorter ones. I'm trying to find some LC coils for myself.
sorry to ask, but I was playin around and stuck some cruiser coils in the back about 2 days ago. When I take any measurements everything works out fine, but if you look at the truck from the rear it looks higher on the pass. side. Has anyone else had this problem? Sorry, I don't want to hijack just had this question and happened to see this thread with some knowledgable folks
#349
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on bilstien's website there are application charts that give extended length/collapsed length/travel and mounting type. theres not much for the stem mounting though, but with an adapter it could work, theres a 6.5" travel shock that could be used or the front and an 11" shock for the rear, also a 10 and 12" .
so not exactly a drop in shock but it should work with some tinkering
so not exactly a drop in shock but it should work with some tinkering
#350
Bilstein 5150
I was able to use a Bilstein 5150 part # F4-BF5-A194-H1 with a couple of modifications. The top lower shock bushing must be trimmed down and the factory lower snubbers must be shimmed so that the lower a-arm hits them sooner to avoid the shock bottoming out. The Bilstein stem adapter adds about an inch to the total length of the shock so you could also trim the adapter.
Last edited by pbstriker38; 12-02-2009 at 06:36 PM.
#353
The bilsteins ride good although they are a little too long. You may need a taller shock tower. Yes I do have manual hubs. My cv's dont seem to be affected much even off road at full droop.
#354
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Just read through all 15 pages and from what I figured out is that my original plan of OME N98 & 72F may not be the best for BJ spacers and cruiser coils (both purchased today and on the way). So this is what I arrived at, and correct me if it's not a good decision, ES914014 for the front and ES926513 for the rear. Got part numbers from this thread. (post #3) I certainly don't have any issues going with ProComp, especially since they are almost half the cost of the OMEs. Going to search for a part number for a ProComp Steering Stabilizer as well. Would like to keep everything the same.
I need to buy shocks, MOOG tie rod ends & sleeve, OME Torsion bars (Addicted Offroad bumper w/winch in my future), Panhard Drop bracket, extended brake lines, steering stabilizer & my suspension/steering work should be complete......for now....I want to get a TC idler arm at some point as well, but wow...$$$$$$
I have in my garage now, Aisin manual hubs that i already rebuilt and painted the face & dials (red/black & ready for installation), OEM ball joints & new torsions bar adjuster bolts (BTW, it sucked removing them....took wayyyy longer to break than I expected)
I can't wait to receive all my tax forms to get my refund so I can spend it on my 4Runner...lol
I need to buy shocks, MOOG tie rod ends & sleeve, OME Torsion bars (Addicted Offroad bumper w/winch in my future), Panhard Drop bracket, extended brake lines, steering stabilizer & my suspension/steering work should be complete......for now....I want to get a TC idler arm at some point as well, but wow...$$$$$$
I have in my garage now, Aisin manual hubs that i already rebuilt and painted the face & dials (red/black & ready for installation), OEM ball joints & new torsions bar adjuster bolts (BTW, it sucked removing them....took wayyyy longer to break than I expected)
I can't wait to receive all my tax forms to get my refund so I can spend it on my 4Runner...lol
#355
Front is Rancho 5167. Stocker for a 4wd Samurai.
Rear is Rancho 5009. Pretty much the longest shock you can run with a pin on the top.
I would look hard and ditching the panhard so one could hack out the lower part of the cross member and run a shock hoop like a pickup.
Rear is Rancho 5009. Pretty much the longest shock you can run with a pin on the top.
I would look hard and ditching the panhard so one could hack out the lower part of the cross member and run a shock hoop like a pickup.
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