The Ball Joint spacer/Cruiser Coil - Longer Shock P/N thread
#1
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The Ball Joint spacer/Cruiser Coil - Longer Shock P/N thread
OK, the balljoint spacers and Cruiser coils have been on some rigs for a while and longer shocks help you get the most of the combo. Everyone running this setup chime in with your shock make and P/N.
I haven't installed mine yet cause I want new shocks ready to go when I do the install. Looking for input from everyone.
I haven't installed mine yet cause I want new shocks ready to go when I do the install. Looking for input from everyone.
#3
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I've emailed ARB about what their recommendation might be. I'm looking at their remote reservoir shocks - probably overkill, but we'll see what they say.
EDIT: By ARB, I mean OME shocks...
EDIT: By ARB, I mean OME shocks...
#4
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Front is Rancho 5167. Stocker for a 4wd Samurai.
Rear is Rancho 5009. Pretty much the longest shock you can run with a pin on the top.
I would look hard and ditching the panhard so one could hack out the lower part of the cross member and run a shock hoop like a pickup.
Rear is Rancho 5009. Pretty much the longest shock you can run with a pin on the top.
I would look hard and ditching the panhard so one could hack out the lower part of the cross member and run a shock hoop like a pickup.
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Originally Posted by Cebby
OK, the balljoint spacers and Cruiser coils have been on some rigs for a while and longer shocks help you get the most of the combo. Everyone running this setup chime in with your shock make and P/N.
I haven't installed mine yet cause I want new shocks ready to go when I do the install. Looking for input from everyone.
I haven't installed mine yet cause I want new shocks ready to go when I do the install. Looking for input from everyone.
I installed mine last Thursday night. Easy install if you pull the axle. I know you asked for feed back on cruiser coils but I am running OME 1.5 hd springs with OME shocks frt/rr. Sway-away 25mm t-bar, 33x12.5 procomps xterrains on chrome rock crawlers. Before the spacer install I had rubbing and the t-bars cranked to tight. Now everything works great. I agree with some of the other posts about stock t-bars are all you really need. Im still a little stiff. If you have any question about the spacer install let me know. I would be happy to help.
#6
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Originally Posted by strap22
I installed mine last Thursday night. Easy install if you pull the axle. I know you asked for feed back on cruiser coils but I am running OME 1.5 hd springs with OME shocks frt/rr. Sway-away 25mm t-bar, 33x12.5 procomps xterrains on chrome rock crawlers. Before the spacer install I had rubbing and the t-bars cranked to tight. Now everything works great. I agree with some of the other posts about stock t-bars are all you really need. Im still a little stiff. If you have any question about the spacer install let me know. I would be happy to help.
I heard back from ARB on the OME LTR's. They don't have an application that will work for us...
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I went with Procomp 3000's up front with the BJ spacers. In back I am still running my KYB's. For the $28 a piece I am very happy with them both on and off road. The part # is 317514, they are for a 4 inch toyota lift. I also bought the bolt on steering stabilizer they offer.
Not bad for 2nd gen IFS
Not bad for 2nd gen IFS
Last edited by Marc P; 09-29-2004 at 08:41 PM. Reason: added pic
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Originally Posted by Cebby
Do you have part numbers for the shocks? Are these shocks for a lifted application?
I heard back from ARB on the OME LTR's. They don't have an application that will work for us...
I heard back from ARB on the OME LTR's. They don't have an application that will work for us...
Last edited by Strap22; 09-30-2004 at 07:27 AM.
#9
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So with completely cranked bars you had rubbing issues, but when you installed the spacers and gained travel, you had no rubbing?
With 25mm bars, an ARB with winch and the bars relaxed so there is no exposed thread on the adjustor, I have no apparent rubbing at full compression with low profile bumpstops and no swaybar. Yes my fender seam is trimmed and flattened, but I have not removed any part of the true fender.
With 25mm bars, an ARB with winch and the bars relaxed so there is no exposed thread on the adjustor, I have no apparent rubbing at full compression with low profile bumpstops and no swaybar. Yes my fender seam is trimmed and flattened, but I have not removed any part of the true fender.
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
So with completely cranked bars you had rubbing issues, but when you installed the spacers and gained travel, you had no rubbing?
With 25mm bars, an ARB with winch and the bars relaxed so there is no exposed thread on the adjustor, I have no apparent rubbing at full compression with low profile bumpstops and no swaybar. Yes my fender seam is trimmed and flattened, but I have not removed any part of the true fender.
With 25mm bars, an ARB with winch and the bars relaxed so there is no exposed thread on the adjustor, I have no apparent rubbing at full compression with low profile bumpstops and no swaybar. Yes my fender seam is trimmed and flattened, but I have not removed any part of the true fender.
#11
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33" MT/R's on 8 inch wide wheels. There is a 1" bodylift, but that does not much matter for suspension's sake.
Do you have an IFS lift? That is a lot of wheel either way.
Do you have an IFS lift? That is a lot of wheel either way.
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
33" MT/R's on 8 inch wide wheels. There is a 1" bodylift, but that does not much matter for suspension's sake.
Do you have an IFS lift? That is a lot of wheel either way.
Do you have an IFS lift? That is a lot of wheel either way.
#14
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Originally Posted by strap22
??? Im not sure what you are asking.
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Front is Rancho 5167. Stocker for a 4wd Samurai.
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Originally Posted by BeaterToyota
He's asking if you have a 4"-5" drop bracket lift kit like Pro Comp or Superlift, etc.
This is what I'm using and seems to work great.
This is what I'm using and seems to work great.
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Originally Posted by 914runner
Hey strap, do you have anymore pics of your rig?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by Strap22; 09-30-2004 at 07:04 PM.
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Originally Posted by Big blue truck
Wher did you purchase the ball joint spacers or did you fab them up. How thick are the spacers.
thanks
thanks
#19
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Installed my balljoint spacers over the weekend !
Everything went pretty smoothly if you discount the fact that I sheared the top pin off of both my Rancho shocks (nuts were rusted solid and a week worth of soaking them w/PB Blaster didn't work) . So I installed the stock shocks which of course I still had laying around the garage (you never know when you're going to need that original thing-a-ma-gig that you removed from the truck ten years ago!!). The stock shocks are not very happy up there and the drivers side wheel pulls when I hit a bump in the road. I'm hoping this is due to the front end being out of alignment. Its a bit un-nerving but at least I made it to work.
Did everybody get an alignment done after doing this mod?
I have an ARB winch bumper on the way and I would like to get it installed with new shocks before doing an alignment.
One other thing, I think the driver's side axle pulled out of the slip joint next to the diff. When you disconnect the upper ball joint and raise up the upper A-arm, the wheel assembly rotates out and away from the diff until the brake line stops it. After I got the A-arm trimmed and was attempting to put things back together, the wheel assembly would not move back in towards the diff. I tried moving the axle up and down, left and right with no luck. Finally, I grabbed the wheel studs and after turning the axle just slightly it slipped back in and everthing bolted back together with no further issues. My only concern here is the shop manual description of front axle removal shows a diagram with match marks made on the end of the axle and the slip yoke. Since I have no idea if the axle went back in the position it came out from is this a problem??
Strap22 if you happen to read this is when you said "Easy install if you pull the axle"? did you mean what I'm describing above or did you mean to unbolt the end of the axle at the diff with the CV boots intact etc. and then bolt it back together.
Everything went pretty smoothly if you discount the fact that I sheared the top pin off of both my Rancho shocks (nuts were rusted solid and a week worth of soaking them w/PB Blaster didn't work) . So I installed the stock shocks which of course I still had laying around the garage (you never know when you're going to need that original thing-a-ma-gig that you removed from the truck ten years ago!!). The stock shocks are not very happy up there and the drivers side wheel pulls when I hit a bump in the road. I'm hoping this is due to the front end being out of alignment. Its a bit un-nerving but at least I made it to work.
Did everybody get an alignment done after doing this mod?
I have an ARB winch bumper on the way and I would like to get it installed with new shocks before doing an alignment.
One other thing, I think the driver's side axle pulled out of the slip joint next to the diff. When you disconnect the upper ball joint and raise up the upper A-arm, the wheel assembly rotates out and away from the diff until the brake line stops it. After I got the A-arm trimmed and was attempting to put things back together, the wheel assembly would not move back in towards the diff. I tried moving the axle up and down, left and right with no luck. Finally, I grabbed the wheel studs and after turning the axle just slightly it slipped back in and everthing bolted back together with no further issues. My only concern here is the shop manual description of front axle removal shows a diagram with match marks made on the end of the axle and the slip yoke. Since I have no idea if the axle went back in the position it came out from is this a problem??
Strap22 if you happen to read this is when you said "Easy install if you pull the axle"? did you mean what I'm describing above or did you mean to unbolt the end of the axle at the diff with the CV boots intact etc. and then bolt it back together.
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Originally Posted by strap22
The fronts are #N92, the rear are N72F, The springs are OME901. And yes they are for lifted applications. You can inquire at info@TRDparts4u.com. We are an ARB, OME wholesaler as well as TRD, Toyota Dealer. The Steering Dampner for this application is #OMESD33. Hope this helps.
Are you still happy with your front shocks? I was thinking about ordering some of the OME #N92s and a steering dampner unless you have some negative feedback. Do these shocks have a metal sleeve in the lower mounting point like the stock shocks so you can properly torque the bolt? The sleeve that came with the Rancho 9000s I had was too small for the stock mounting bolt so I didn't use it and the shocks rattled all the time.
Last edited by PAhydrohead; 01-10-2005 at 11:15 AM.