Bad vibration from rear
07-31-2012, 07:12 AM
#21
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maybe the vibrations are being caused by the fact that you are modifying a vehicle that is perfection when left stock...33 inch tires? lifts? hahahaha gimme a break...i live in the woods and drive off road nearly everyday with goodyear wranglers 185/75's or whatever they are when i bought em two years ago...no vibrations here...just a thought lol
07-31-2012, 11:47 AM
#22
There is a dust shield on the transfer case right behind the flange to the driveline that I took off when I installed my drive shaft e-brake, that eliminated a lot of the vibration that I was having. I also thought it was my 3rd member but that dust shield seamed to be the problem for me.
08-16-2012, 02:47 PM
#23
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from the research i have been doing online and talking to people. i have found out the my angles are to high for the stock drive shaft. I will have to redo the spring perches and install a Double Cardan (cv) drive shaft. The u joints on my drive shaft are going into a elliptical pattern. i have read that over 7° you can have this problem. Right now I'm running 14°. So now I'm going to have to save my money.
08-16-2012, 03:59 PM
#25
from the research i have been doing online and talking to people. i have found out the my angles are to high for the stock drive shaft. I will have to redo the spring perches and install a Double Cardan (cv) drive shaft. The u joints on my drive shaft are going into a elliptical pattern. i have read that over 7° you can have this problem. Right now I'm running 14°. So now I'm going to have to save my money.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1
08-17-2012, 11:04 AM
#26
I hope you find the source of yours, but I've replaced nearly everything on mine, including 3rd member, and it still vibrates while light on/off the gas or coasting in neutral. The only things that are left are the transmission and transfer case... Things that helped the most are when I had my transfer case output shaft bearing replaced, and then tightened the flange nut on both ends. I am just learning to be friends with my vibration. That, and the new 33x12.5 BFG A/Ts help drown it out a little. I've thrown in the towel on finding mine, but good luck. If you do give up, you are in good company.
3rd member has all new bearings and gears but didnt make any noise or vib for a good 1000 or so miles
new u joints - no change
different driveline/new u joints/balanced - no change
3rd driveline fully rebuilt and balanced - no change
shim my axle so both t case and 3rd is parallel - seem to have gotten worst
this is odd because i looked at another runner that has been lifted even more than mine and can see his 3rd is pointed right at the t case, he is using single u joints on each end and he has no vib or noises
new motor mount and t case mount - no change
08-17-2012, 11:14 AM
#27
You might want to try leaving the pinion 1-2 degrees below the transfer case flange angle to allow for a bit of up-tilt in the pinion while driving:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1
And it might be that your u-joint angles are just too high. U-joints do not perfectly cancel out shaft vibrations, and that imperfection gets worse the higher the angle gets:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...n-Measurements
This animation shows why this is:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ies/ujoint.avi
Watch how the shaft in between the joints speeds up and slows down a couple of times each revolution. So even a perfectly balanced shaft with perfect u-joints and all will still vibrate with a certain u-joint operating angle and shaft length.
Could be the 4Runner you looked at might have had the alternate u-joint angle set up where instead of running parallel flanges, you tip the pinion up higher the the drive shaft angle and have the same angle at the t-case flange.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml#FAQ1
And it might be that your u-joint angles are just too high. U-joints do not perfectly cancel out shaft vibrations, and that imperfection gets worse the higher the angle gets:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...n-Measurements
This animation shows why this is:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ies/ujoint.avi
Watch how the shaft in between the joints speeds up and slows down a couple of times each revolution. So even a perfectly balanced shaft with perfect u-joints and all will still vibrate with a certain u-joint operating angle and shaft length.
Could be the 4Runner you looked at might have had the alternate u-joint angle set up where instead of running parallel flanges, you tip the pinion up higher the the drive shaft angle and have the same angle at the t-case flange.
08-17-2012, 11:25 AM
#28
the other runner looks like a stock driveline (he got runner used) no axle shims and rear axle spring perches are stock
before the shim. my 3rd was point at the t case just like the other runner was.
im gonna shoot a video and see if i can upload it here to see if you can see anything wrong.
for sure i thought the 3rd driveline would fix it because the 2nd driveline slip yoke had a little play when turning it.
before the shim. my 3rd was point at the t case just like the other runner was.
im gonna shoot a video and see if i can upload it here to see if you can see anything wrong.
for sure i thought the 3rd driveline would fix it because the 2nd driveline slip yoke had a little play when turning it.
11-30-2013, 06:06 PM
#29
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I have similar problems as you fellers. Replaced the factory 2 piece shaft with a tom woods one piece and am running 8 degrees at the T-case and 8.5 degrees at the rear diff and still have a vibration only when on the throttle at around 40-60mph and its the worst in 5th gear below 55mph. And a vib when slowing down in neutral from 30-15mph. Weird…. 
I have replaced the rear diff, and checked torque on the nut at the
t-case output flange, and the output bearing has the tiniest amount of play imaginable. I am beginning to think its something inside my t-case or transmission but that is speculation, so I'm stumped. Taking it to the local amco trans place tomorrow for the free diagnosis check.
Ill let you guys know.
I have replaced the rear diff, and checked torque on the nut at thet-case output flange, and the output bearing has the tiniest amount of play imaginable. I am beginning to think its something inside my t-case or transmission but that is speculation, so I'm stumped. Taking it to the local amco trans place tomorrow for the free diagnosis check.
Ill let you guys know.
12-01-2013, 09:15 AM
#30
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A cv added to my rear DS, solved my problem. 4 inch springs and 6" shackles had pointed my rear pinion up to the transfer case. I had growl and some shake on the off throttle. Conversely I am now running U joints at both ends up front on a Square DS. Due to the now almost parallel flanges.
12-01-2013, 05:01 PM
#31
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Sucks for me cause my other truck is lifted way more and is running about 13 degrees at both ends with no cv and has no vibes ever. And I have bashed the rear DS on rocks before.
12-01-2013, 06:58 PM
#33
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I have no issues but I still want a one piece. Now that I live in a big city I'm going to spec one out.
Going from 2 piece to one piece made a difference in peppiness IMO.
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 12-01-2013 at 07:00 PM.
12-03-2013, 05:45 PM
#34
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I have similar problems as you fellers. Replaced the factory 2 piece shaft with a tom woods one piece and am running 8 degrees at the T-case and 8.5 degrees at the rear diff and still have a vibration only when on the throttle at around 40-60mph and its the worst in 5th gear below 55mph. And a vib when slowing down in neutral from 30-15mph. Weird…. I have replaced the rear diff, and checked torque on the nut at the
t-case output flange, and the output bearing has the tiniest amount of play imaginable. I am beginning to think its something inside my t-case or transmission but that is speculation, so I'm stumped. Taking it to the local amco trans place tomorrow for the free diagnosis check. Ill let you guys know.
t-case output flange, and the output bearing has the tiniest amount of play imaginable. I am beginning to think its something inside my t-case or transmission but that is speculation, so I'm stumped. Taking it to the local amco trans place tomorrow for the free diagnosis check. Ill let you guys know.
12-03-2013, 06:48 PM
#36
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OH I see now. Thats why I was so adamant about making sure my u-joint angles are perfect. No just kiddin but Ive seen that one.
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; 12-03-2013 at 06:50 PM.
12-04-2013, 01:51 AM
#37
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had similar problem with mine as well.. bought a 1.5" spacer off here that gets added to the driveshaft on either end you desire to make my yolk not so far out from the driveshaft... fixed my problem because after my bigger tires and leaf swap i had mean vibrations... this is where I found mine and so thankful for this site because its what helped me find it... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ftSpacer.shtml
12-05-2013, 09:57 AM
#38
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driveshafts
ifthers any play in the ujoints replace them make sure you mark every thing also if there the original ujoints (inside clips ) they take a 1612 ujoint 2-1612-dl auto zone neapco etc also there a bitch to remove they want tio twist when you remofe them iv'e been building driveshafts for 20 yrs im a professional drive line tech
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