I know for a fact that my entire exhaust system needs to be replaced so it probably wouldnt hurt to do that, but yes i did clear it i pulled the efi fuse, maybe i didnt leave it out long enough? Should i try that paperclip trick again and see if anything comes up?

 

Wouldn't hurt.

 

So i went an got another AFM, it fixed my idiling problem and the truck runs fine until your driving around 3000rs it puffs black smoke and is very under powered but below 3000rpms it runs fine, is it running rich? anybody have an idea as to whats wrong? I know for a fact that my whole exhaust needs to be redone so maybe thats a problem, but yea i unplugged efi fuse for abit, maybe not long enough? Should i try the paperclip trick again and see if anything comes up?

 

Oops my bad i didnt think my previous post registered, ignore the post before this lol.

 

ok so i just got home, truck wasnt smoking as much as it was on my way to my destination 30km's away but it still didnt feel right, so i did the paper clip trick and there were no flashing lights, chk engine lights stayed one and o/d light didnt come on at all. any idea where the problem lies now?

 

Really? You had the key turned all the way to ignition? Correct terminals....te1 and e1? Try again and make sure you're getting good contact with the paper clip. Doesn't sound like you are.

 

I did the test before i left for work this morning, youre right i had a bad connecttion, because it sent me the same codes as before, even though it runs way better now, could i have gotten another bad AFM?

 

You may have not had the fuse pulled long enough to clear the codes. I forget exactly how long you're supposed to leave it out to do so, but give it like ten minutes.

Where'd you get the "new" AFM?

 

See my last post here, it might help

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rs-271213-new/

And once again, check too see if your cat. Conv. Is plugged

 

Haha yea notice how i said another AFM not a new one, i couldnt believe wht they charge for new ones so ill stick with used ones lol, i didnt leave the fuse out that long maybe 2 minutes but ill take it out again for longer and see if thatchanges anything

 

If you're talking about dealership prices, then you'd have to have fat wallet fer sure! Auto Zone has reman'd units for a fair price. Somewhere around $160, as I recall. I have one in my '86 that's been fine for three years, now. It's a reman'd OEM by Beck Arnely, I believe. Lifetime warranty, so if ever fails I just get another. The replacement in my wife's '92 V6, however, is a used low mileage unit from Nix99 out of Washington state. Paid less than $200, was tested before shipped, and has been great. Used is risky unless it's from a reputable used dealer or someone parting out whom you trust and has been reliably tested prior to you receiving it. So, unless your newly acquired AFM's been tested, you should test it.

 

And, 92Yoda.....I realize ghost is being helpful and I'm not negating his suggestion, but given your amount of experience, I'd suggestion sticking to diagnosing the AFM so as not to confuse things. At this point, there's no reason to believe anything else would be going wrong since nothing was wrong until you dropped it. And, that have you a used unit that's "questionable" (AFAIK) still leaves the AFM diagnosis unresolved.

 

Yea for sure ill test this AFM when i get home because like you said there cant really be that much else wrong with it. Ill test it when i get home and pull the fuse for longer, also ill check my cat conv.