Bad clutch slipping, what is going wrong with it???
#1
Bad clutch slipping, what is going wrong with it???
I have an 87 22r pickup with 159k on it. I have been adding fluid in my clutch master cylnder about once a day cause it leaks somewhere on the floor board. Yesterday I was going up hill and my engine reved real high but I was still in gear I had to barlely be on the pedal in 3rd smoking the clutch just to get to the town I live in, what could this b? I visually dont have any leaks with the motor but you never know
#2
ummmm maybe you need a new clutch? But if you have just replaced it recently it could be the transmission input seal leaking and slinging gear oil all over in your bell housing and possible contaminating your clutch disk with gear oil. Could be the rear main seal leaking too. But i would replace that master cyl first and fore most.
Last edited by spc mike; 03-29-2011 at 08:25 AM.
#3
Registered User
i had an 84 clutch mc seal went bad and was leaking down inside the truck behind and under the carpet. i ended up tearing out the saturated carpet to get rid of the fluid smell.
#6
ok thats what I was thinking that it went bad, I work at a nissan dealership but not in the service side and one of the techs told me that the mastercylnder is all good but thats why its leaking in my cab? I dont think he knew what he was talking about, where should I look to buy one? how much do you think
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#8
Registered User
Call me crazy but, I don't see what a leaky master cylinder has to do with the clutch slipping under load.
Replace the clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced. Bet it won't happen again.
Replace the clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced. Bet it won't happen again.
#9
Banned
#10
Registered User
#11
I appreciate it you guys thank you, Should I even mess with the seals while im in there or just go ahead and do a clutch/resurface and see what happens
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 03-29-2011 at 05:49 PM.
#12
Registered User
1. replace master cylinder as it is leaking in the cab...
2. pull trans and clutch Assembly
3. have fly wheel resurfaced
4. inspect seal if leaking replace
5. replace clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing
6. reinstall clutch and trans, bleed clutch and watch it work tell u blow it again.
2. pull trans and clutch Assembly
3. have fly wheel resurfaced
4. inspect seal if leaking replace
5. replace clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing
6. reinstall clutch and trans, bleed clutch and watch it work tell u blow it again.
#15
Registered User
yup something i did that worked was to get a clear hose that was about 6 ft or so that fit over the end of the fitting, and used a vacuum gun to pull the fluid threw tell there was no air bubbles. or just have someone pump it tell u get all the bubbles out.
#16
Registered User
If the master is leaking down, there is a chance that while sitting idle the system looses pressure allowing the clutch/disk/pressure plate to 'rub', shortening the clutch life.
Which brings me to the next question, when sitting for an extended time with the clutch pressed, ever have problems getting it into gear witout letting out and pressing the clutch again?
Which brings me to the next question, when sitting for an extended time with the clutch pressed, ever have problems getting it into gear witout letting out and pressing the clutch again?
#17
Registered User
haha. but yes, he needs to replace the clutch as well. i agree.
#18
sports man phil, yes Sometimes I have to depress the clutch again or the best way is for me to put it in 4th real quick then go into first with no problem, and yes the cab smells like crap, seriously I left one of my work shirts in there last night and I wore it today and all I can smell is old yota/ fluid, bugh
#19
Registered User
Your master is leaking down and allowing your clutch to rub, which builds heat and reduces its life. Plus a clutch will 'gas' like overheating brake pads. That gas acts like a lubricant reducing the friction of the clutch.
My suggestion, until you get a chance to replace the clutch and master. Only press the clutch to engage gear and change gears. When sitting at idle, pop it in neutral and let the clutch out.
Your master can make pressure but not hold it. You will need to replace the master soon and more than likely the clutch in the near future. However, its possible that the clutch will be fine. In addition, the heat caused by the dragging clutch may have warped/cracked the flywheel. Might end up resurfacing or replacing the flywheel next clutch change.
My suggestion, until you get a chance to replace the clutch and master. Only press the clutch to engage gear and change gears. When sitting at idle, pop it in neutral and let the clutch out.
Your master can make pressure but not hold it. You will need to replace the master soon and more than likely the clutch in the near future. However, its possible that the clutch will be fine. In addition, the heat caused by the dragging clutch may have warped/cracked the flywheel. Might end up resurfacing or replacing the flywheel next clutch change.
#20
clutch was burnt to a crisp, i replaced the master now no more leaking... I was driving it around for a few days then my clutch must have hit an air bubble because it lost all pressure (goes to the floor) . I bleed it a little with a fried and got a few bubbles out then it was cool until 20 minutes later, weak