AXLE SHAFT questions
#1
AXLE SHAFT questions
Does anyone know if axle shafts for a 3d gen Toyota Pickup 4WD vary between those with the 22RE 4 cilinder and those with the 3.0 6 cilinder motor?
Another thing: axle shaft part # apparently was 42311-35190 and has been replaced by # 42311-35310 but no other information is given. I'm suspecting the new part may actually be axle shaft from later Tacomas (95-2003). Does anyone know anything about this?
THING IS, I was working on replacing oil seals and bearings on the rear axle, but since I don't have neither a hidraulic press nor an angle grinder, I took the axle shafts to a mechanic but alas, without the special tool some people have fabbed to use in conjunction with the press, he proceeded to use an angle grinder to take out the retainer. And yes, as I feared, even though he did it with lots of attention and I was closely watching the mechanic accidentally nicked the axle shaft- well, actually sawed like 1.5 mm into the shaft with the angle grinder. Now, since the cut is just below the space where the snap ring sits (see drawing below, I have no pics at hand), at first I thought that it was no big deal as anyway the shaft's diameter is shorter precisely above that spot, but now, after reading all that has been said in this and other forums with respect to the damn stress risers, I'm thinking on replacing the axle shaft to be safe.
Could anyone give some feedback on what real risk would there realistically be of the axle shaft actually having been weakened?
THANKS!
Another thing: axle shaft part # apparently was 42311-35190 and has been replaced by # 42311-35310 but no other information is given. I'm suspecting the new part may actually be axle shaft from later Tacomas (95-2003). Does anyone know anything about this?
THING IS, I was working on replacing oil seals and bearings on the rear axle, but since I don't have neither a hidraulic press nor an angle grinder, I took the axle shafts to a mechanic but alas, without the special tool some people have fabbed to use in conjunction with the press, he proceeded to use an angle grinder to take out the retainer. And yes, as I feared, even though he did it with lots of attention and I was closely watching the mechanic accidentally nicked the axle shaft- well, actually sawed like 1.5 mm into the shaft with the angle grinder. Now, since the cut is just below the space where the snap ring sits (see drawing below, I have no pics at hand), at first I thought that it was no big deal as anyway the shaft's diameter is shorter precisely above that spot, but now, after reading all that has been said in this and other forums with respect to the damn stress risers, I'm thinking on replacing the axle shaft to be safe.
Could anyone give some feedback on what real risk would there realistically be of the axle shaft actually having been weakened?
THANKS!
Last edited by BMarino; 01-16-2019 at 11:28 AM.
#2
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Does anyone know if axle shafts for a 3d gen Toyota Pickup 4WD vary between those with the 22RE 4 cilinder and those with the 3.0 6 cilinder motor?
Another thing: axle shaft part # apparently was 42311-35190 and has been replaced by # 42311-35310 but no other information is given. I'm suspecting the new part may actually be axle shaft from later Tacomas (95-2003). Does anyone know anything about this? ...!
Another thing: axle shaft part # apparently was 42311-35190 and has been replaced by # 42311-35310 but no other information is given. I'm suspecting the new part may actually be axle shaft from later Tacomas (95-2003). Does anyone know anything about this? ...!
The part you want is determined by the body style (which you get from your VIN ). https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=511151&ukey_make=1 060&ukey_model=15426&modelYear=1991&ukey_category= 21645&ukey_driveLine=6708&ukey_trimLevel=18381
For a given body style, the axle shaft DOES fit 4Runners with the 22RE or 3VZE and several years of Tacomas and Tundras.
The bad news: the part is no longer available from Toyota for any body style.
#3
42311-35130
The part you want is determined by the body style (which you get from your VIN ). https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18381
For a given body style, the axle shaft DOES fit 4Runners with the 22RE or 3VZE and several years of Tacomas and Tundras.
The bad news: the part is no longer available from Toyota for any body style.
The part you want is determined by the body style (which you get from your VIN ). https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18381
For a given body style, the axle shaft DOES fit 4Runners with the 22RE or 3VZE and several years of Tacomas and Tundras.
The bad news: the part is no longer available from Toyota for any body style.
Strange. At Toyotapartsdeal.com, they have registered rear axle shafts as part # 42311-35310 for my VIN. And it seems they do have them in stock. I also called a Toyota dealership and they say those shafts are still available.
But that's irrelevant, since I'm gonna get it from a junkyard.
Thanks, anyway!
Well, actually, would a shaft for, say, a 4runner with ABS fit in my truck (with no ABS)? I know rear axle shaft with ABS do accomodate a "ring" in addition to the retainer and bearing. I'm supposing I can simply remove that "ABS ring" and it will fit without any problem, but maybe I'm wrong. Could someone shed some light on this? Appreciate it.
#4
How is your mechanic not replacing the shaft?
Realisitcally, he fubared it. Wrong proceedure AND being dumb.
Realisitcally, he fubared it. Wrong proceedure AND being dumb.
#5
Because I live in Mexico and over here, 95 % of mechanics proceed shadingly and have a view about life and risk rather superficial. His response to nicking the axle was: "No pasa nada" = "Its nothing, I GUARANTEE you the shaft won't ever break apart, don't worry". And all of them think more or less the same way, and most people, by that matter.
So yeah, there's no realistic way of making him pay, at least not a "legal" one. Thinking about it, it was MY mistake of not making extremely clear to him to not nick the axle.
But what's done is done.
Now I wanna make sure I don't get an axle shaft from the junkyard that won't fit my truck. Any suggestions?
#6
Registered User
Most of the force is going to be transmitted through the outer diameter of the shaft. A deep cut in it will create a weak spot on the outer edge and can cause issues. A nick like that can have a much larger impact on strength than drilling a large hole all the way through the shaft. I would recommend replacing it if you do any kind of hardish wheeling. To my knowledge, the only difference between 8" diff shafts are the length.
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BMarino (01-18-2019)
#7
Would you happen to know what vehicles are there differences between regarding axle shafts?
If I'm not mistaken, 3d gen pickups and 2nd gen 4runners 4wd models use the same axle shafts. Toyotapartsdeal display same part # for rear axle shafts between my pickup (4 cyl, manual, xtracab) and any 2nd gen 4wd 4runner. My concern regards the ABS ring fitted on rear axle shafts of some 4runners.
Does anyone know if an ABS fitted axle shaft can be used on a non-abs pickup (obviously taking off the ABS ring) ?
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#8
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I wasn't aware of an abs ring on any 4runners. I thought they used the sensor on the top of the third member. I see no reason why it couldn't just be knocked off
#9
Hmmmm.... maybe I'm mistaken then.
I saw this on a 3d gen 4runner thread, but since I once read some versions of 2nd gen pickups and 4runners did have ABS breaks, I'm supposing the rear axle configuration would be similar in them.
Could it be that 2nd gen 4runners with ABS did not use this axle shaft configuration?
There's a 2nd gen 4runner listed on a junkyards web site, not much info is posted on it, but on photos I see it has the ADD front hubs, aluminum wheels and sunroof, so I'm assuming it must be the "fancier" version and maybe it does have ABS breaks. That junkyard is a bit far from home, so I wouldn't like making it there and discover its axle shafts are of no use to me.
#10
Registered User
The 3rd gens I believe have 4 wheel ABS. Some even get their speedo signal from there. The 2nd gens were available with a reletively crude version of rear ABS. Their sensor is on the third member using the ring gear as a the ABS reluctor. I vaguely remember seeing a thread on the rear ABS for the 3rd gens. If I remember right, I think the sensor was mounted to a boss on the end of the axle tube. I see no reason why the ring couldn't be removed and the shaft be used so long as the length is right.
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BMarino (01-24-2019)
#11
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Frankly, I don't know much about which "gen" a particular truck or 4runner is. The rear axle depends on the body style, but for a given style the same axle fits 1988-2006. Yes, even those with the "newer" abs with the reluctor on the axle (it's a separate part with a separate part number) https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18380
So just figure out what axle you NEED (use your VIN to confirm the body style), then on the above site click "What this fits" for a list of the other years and models that axle is used on.
So just figure out what axle you NEED (use your VIN to confirm the body style), then on the above site click "What this fits" for a list of the other years and models that axle is used on.
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BMarino (01-24-2019)
#12
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The 3rd gens I believe have 4 wheel ABS. Some even get their speedo signal from there. The 2nd gens were available with a reletively crude version of rear ABS. Their sensor is on the third member using the ring gear as a the ABS reluctor. I vaguely remember seeing a thread on the rear ABS for the 3rd gens. If I remember right, I think the sensor was mounted to a boss on the end of the axle tube. I see no reason why the ring couldn't be removed and the shaft be used so long as the length is right.
My wrecked '92 has 2 wheel ABS that uses the rear ring gear and sensor on the 3rd member.
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BMarino (01-24-2019)
#13
Most of the force is going to be transmitted through the outer diameter of the shaft. A deep cut in it will create a weak spot on the outer edge and can cause issues. A nick like that can have a much larger impact on strength than drilling a large hole all the way through the shaft. I would recommend replacing it if you do any kind of hardish wheeling. To my knowledge, the only difference between 8" diff shafts are the length.
Finally took apart my truck's axle shafts and took some pics. This is the nick I was talking about. How likely would it be for it to cause issues? Actually, it isn't 1.5 mm deep as I stated initially, but actually hardly 0.5 mm deep. I don't use my truck (94 xtra cab 4WD, 22RE manual) for wheeling, but I do use it to haul stuff and driving on rough offroading (but again, no extreme wheeling).
Thing is, I did find a spare axle shaft in a junkyard. Overall it is in good shape, but the shaft's base sports this. Apparently it was slammed at those spots for reasons which I can't imagine.
As I have no idea on what kind of abuse an axle shaft sourced from a junkyard has been subjected to (even if visually it seems ok), I'm thinking it is safer to continue using the original axle shaft if the nick on it isn't really that of an issue.
There's another thing that jumped on my mind: in this way I would also ensure having axles with the same accumulated fatigue on both sides, whereas if I replace one of them, this would no longer be the case. But then again, I'm no engineer and am just guessing on what an ideal situation would actually be.
So the dilemma is:
Is it safer to stick with my original, nicked, axle shaft, obviously if, and only if, the nick on it isn't really that of an issue (?)
OR
Is it safer to eliminate the risk that nick represents, and replace the original shaft with the junkyard rear axle shaft (?)
In short, which is a greater of a risk:
Trusting my nicked axle shaft, or trusting an apparently flawless axle shaft, with an unknown history of possible abuse?
THANKS FOR ANY FEEDBACK!
Last edited by BMarino; 02-28-2019 at 04:22 AM.
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Gee, I dunno. I suppose I'd use the "nicked" shaft and just be careful. I think I would take a file and try to round off all the sharp corners (it looks like the bottom of the "nick" is close to round, which is very good, so I would round over the edges on the "top" of the nick.)
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BMarino (02-27-2019)
#15
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I didn't realize how small the nick really was. With it being that small and that close to the snap ring groove, I think it will be fine. Right at that grove, there will be little to no power transfer at that edge. Plus, since you don't do much wheeling, it really should be fine.
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BMarino (02-28-2019)
#16
Gee, I dunno. I suppose I'd use the "nicked" shaft and just be careful. I think I would take a file and try to round off all the sharp corners (it looks like the bottom of the "nick" is close to round, which is very good, so I would round over the edges on the "top" of the nick.)
I didn't realize how small the nick really was. With it being that small and that close to the snap ring groove, I think it will be fine. Right at that grove, there will be little to no power transfer at that edge. Plus, since you don't do much wheeling, it really should be fine.
Thanks!
I decided it's best to keep using the original axle shaft. Maybe try to smooth out the nick edges, probably leave it as it sits, don't want to make it any worse.
Thanks again for your useful feedback!
#17
Has anyone successfully used a 1st gen Tacoma rear axle shaft on a '86-'95 Pickup (4WD, 4cyl, 8" diff, 2 pinion, 30-spline axle shaft)?
I KNOW Tacoma axle shafts are wider in length by 1.5" as Kolton states (and that's it regarding differences between them as far as I know), but here's the thing:
If you observe closely, the spline end on the axle shafts (be it Tacoma or Pickup) has "contact/wear markings" which don't cover the total length of the splines.
1.- Am I right in supposing the Tacoma rear axle shaft would simply ENGAGE DEEPER into the side gear (extending beyond those contact/wear markings) in comparison to the Pickup axle shaft, allowing for correct sealing and mounting at the axle wheel end?
2.- If this is even possible, would problems arise because of having a shaft at one side engaging deeper into the DIFF in comparison to the other side?
THANKS FOR ANY FEEDBACK ON THIS!
#18
Because I live in Mexico and over here, 95 % of mechanics proceed shadingly and have a view about life and risk rather superficial. His response to nicking the axle was: "No pasa nada" = "Its nothing, I GUARANTEE you the shaft won't ever break apart, don't worry". And all of them think more or less the same way, and most people, by that matter.
So yeah, there's no realistic way of making him pay, at least not a "legal" one. Thinking about it, it was MY mistake of not making extremely clear to him to not nick the axle.
But what's done is done.
Now I wanna make sure I don't get an axle shaft from the junkyard that won't fit my truck. Any suggestions?
So yeah, there's no realistic way of making him pay, at least not a "legal" one. Thinking about it, it was MY mistake of not making extremely clear to him to not nick the axle.
But what's done is done.
Now I wanna make sure I don't get an axle shaft from the junkyard that won't fit my truck. Any suggestions?
Did you pay him money? I hope not.
The right way to do it is to cut "just" close to where you need to go, then "snap" pry the ring apart with a hammer and screwdriver.
Another way is to bang the axle shaft on the ground until the ring falls off. Place hard plastic / wood under it!!! Bearing will come off too if you keep at it.
Install the shaft, do a couple of burnouts (hahaha) and shock loads. Most probably you will break something else, not the nicked axle. If it doesn't break trust it.
I mean you are in Mexico. If you know the truck will not fall apart today, it will not fall apart.
Swapping the axle takes less time than to drink a
Last edited by ev13wt; 03-12-2019 at 07:00 AM.
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