Cab4you26

I am in the process of rebuilding my front axle. I have a Toyota elocker fitted in the front and I'm ready to install the axle shafts. To be sure, before final assembly, I made sure the shafts slid in the differential before installing the inner axle seals. So once that was verified, I installed the inner seal (Marlin HD), greased the seal, greased the shaft and went to install it, well I couldn't get it to go in with the seal installed. I rotated the pinion, rotated the shaft, tapped on the shaft lightly, it didnt matter. I couldn't get it to go in. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. The flats of the birfield will go in the knuckle ball and there is probably 2 inches left the shaft needs to go in. Today I separated the inner and outer shafts and only slid in the inner shaft. Well it went in perfect. I'm not sure where to go from here, any ideas?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I'm assuming both sides won't go in? Is the axle housing bent? Are the steering knuckles properly shimmed? I'm not the best SFA guy, but I have rebuilt a few and they don't typically just "slide on in" on the first try - usually takes a little wiggling to get them to go, but it usually isn't a problem.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Actually, I know what could be your problem! 2 inches from going in you say?? I bet your new seal is giving you a little headache. The wider portion of the axle shaft that the seal rides on is about 2-3" long so that is likely what is holding you up. If you by chance have a spare seal (a new MC HD seal preferably), I would check to make sure that it slides onto the axle properly. There should be a little resistance, but once it "pops" through it should slide the rest of the way in fairly easily. I wouldn't whack it with a hammer or anything, but just put some good solid pressure on it and see what happens.

rattlewagon

I have a feeling that if the inners went in with out a problem, that your axle is slightly bent, probably just at the balls. May have to take a dremel to the bottom of the ball (inside) to get the bell of the birf to slide in. When it just wont go any farther, you should be able to see where its contacting the bell.

I went through the same thing a few weeks ago, birf just wouldnt go in, no matter how hard I hit it, but the inner shaft popped in every time. Light grind with the dremel and it poped right in. Also using the Marlin HD seals.

Cab4you26

I am using the same shims that came out of it, and I am currently only on the short side. I'm not sure how to check if the axle is bent, but I will read up on it. I wouldn't be surprised if it was bent, though, from where I welded the gussets. I was pretty new to welding when I did them, and I basically did them all at once without letting it cool. I would still think with the inner shaft going in, and with the whole thing going in without the seal, they'd go in with the seal.

Just the inner will go through the seal fine. I tried everything when putting it back together. Nothing would go. I wouldn't think grinding the inside of the knuckle ball would be necessary unless the balls are bent like you said. But if they're bent then I have bigger problems.

Cab4you26

I read a lot of people that have bent housings have a hard time getting the shafts out of the axle. I welded my gussets with everything assembled and I had no trouble getting my shafts out. That's not to say it isn't bent, though, because everything on the axle was wore out. I am going to give it another go tomorrow and see what happens.

Cab4you26

Well I tried again today with no luck. This time I used the other birfield. There is a noticeable gap between the bottom of the axle shaft and the top of the bottom part of the seal. It's like the axle shaft is hanging down on the diff. end and I don't have a way to raise it up enough to get it to spline in. There isn't enough wiggle room to move around the shaft to get it to go in. I'm not sure what to do at this point. This is how far it will go:

olharleyman

I am doing the same thing right now brand new birf/axle kit from TG got dark so I stopped till morning anyway I had the same issue with the short side and had the same top gap issue so what i did was got it in as far as it would go then grabbed a set of vise grips clamped them on the axle and turned the axle as i raised it and went back and forward with the axle a little at a time and suddenly all the stars lined up and it slid right into place , got all back together then realized I forgot to deburr a few spots that got messed up inside the knuckle after my stock birfield blew up and would not let me turn my wheel to the right so now I just got done tearing it all down again to redo tomorrow duh GOOD LUCK SHOULD BE A BREEZE IF YOU DO LIKE I DID BABY STEPS BROTHER BABY STEPS

Cab4you26

No luck again today. I didn't put vice grips on my axle shaft but I did try tipping the housing up while I tried to slide it in there and no luck. I'm going to have someone come over and help me and see if anything changes. If not then I'm not sure what to do. I could understand the knuckleballs being warped from welding the gussets, but not that warped. If my axle shafts came out just fine after welding them on, then I don't see where they wouldn't be able to go back in.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I highly doubt that you warped your balls - they are pretty thick and would take an insane amount of heat to warp. Are your knuckles properly shimmed/aligned?

rattlewagon

I still think a tad bit of grinding will solve all your headache. I only had maybe 10-15 hours of use on the axle. Originally everything went together very smooth, then when I tookshafts out maybe 2 months later (took them out to change a broken r&p) , I could not get the long side bell/shaft in. The shaft would go in fine, but not with the bell on it. Tad bit of grinding just to take the lip off the bottom inside of the bell by the trunion bearing and she slid right in.

Cab4you26

I am kinda doubting they're warped, too. I welded them on with everything assembled and grease/oil in it.

I reused the old shims that came on it, so I don't see where that would be an issue. If all else fails, I'll do some grinding on the bottom of the ball. That's where the birfield is contacting, anyway.

On another note, have any of you with high steer had issues with the tie rod being too long? I have the sky kit, and the rod is 42 inches. With the tie rod ends threaded all the way in, my knuckles are pointed like duck feet. I called sky and he said most people keep them at 42 inches. I don't even see how this is possible with the way my knuckles are pointed.

Cab4you26

Here is a picture with my tie rod on. I know I could shorten it, but if Sky says everyone else keeps them at 42 inches, it makes me wonder what's going on with mine..

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

That tie rod is definitely too long and it looks like you're maxed out on the adjustment.

rattlewagon

Huh. Tg has it listed at 41.5 inches.. Does that one on there measure 42"

Cab4you26

Yep, the rod measures 42 inches.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Something doesn't seem right there... I have the Sky HD tie rod (stock steering) and Sky advertises it at 43.5" (I assume that is the length of the actual DOM tube, but including the rod ends - you've got me curious so now I want to go measure during my lunch break). I know the stock length is longer because the stock knuckle caps have a wider stance, but I would assume the the 42" rod would fit fine - especially if you bought it as a hi-steer kit. I'm not a hi-steer expert, but I think you may have received the wrong rod

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Actually, hold on, did you accidentally order the hi-steer kit for the Dana 44 full width axle conversion?

Cab4you26

I called yesterday and specifically asked for the tie rod length for the Toyota high steer kit and he told me 42 inches. And with TG's tie rod being 41.5 inches it makes me think it's the right one. I also haven't really found any info on anyone having to cut them down to fit. If they sent them out knowing they would need to be cut down, I would think there would be more people talking about it. That or they would just send them close to the right length, or something is just really screwy with my axle, or I've done something way wrong and I can't tell?

Cab4you26

Ok so I just called Sky again. They told me the same thing. Tie rod is indeed 42 inches. He told me to email him a picture so I sent him one. After I got off the phone, I was looking at their kits on Google. On my driver side arm, the taper goes from the outside of the knuckle inward. On the Google images arm, the taper goes from the inside of the knuckle outward. This moves the mounting hole farther inward. Also, on my passenger side arm, the tie rod hole is on the inside of the arm. On the google images steering arm, the tie rod mounting hole is on the outside. Again, for me this moves the mounting hole farther inward.

If I swapped arms, I believe the knuckles would be straight. All of this makes me think I have my steering arms mounted on the wrong sides. But after repeatedly looking at high steer setups on Google to confirm I have it right, I don't see how that's possible.