MRecio

Hey guys I was driving my 94 4Runner around town today and noticed the throttle felt a little sticky depending on where it was at. Well this evening on the way home the throttle felt really hard so i pressed it down and well it got stuck! the pedal came up but the throttle was stuck at about 75%. Well i turned off the truck coasted (NO BRAKES AT ALL WITH THE TRUCK OFF PEDAL WAS HARD AS A ROCK) thank god it wasnt near an intersection.

Well the Throttle body gets stuck open at about 50% and again at 75%, I thought I could just drive it home really easy and got back into the truck turned her on and my tranny would not shift!!! reverse, drive, 2, L NOTHING. I threw the transfer case into 4hi and still nothing. With the transfer case in 4lo though it kicked into all the gears?? well I drove it home about 5 miles away in 4lo going about 20mph and now that its home I dont know what to do. The transmisison will not shift into any gear in high range, if its in gear in low range and I switch to high range I loose the gear and the truck will just rev

The throttle body and the transmisison related in this manner? I know the kick down cable has a little to do with the tranny but it just doesnt make sense. Im sure i could fix the throttle body or get a hold of a new one but the transmisison is another story. It not shifting has happened to me twice before but never like this. It has always just been for maybe a mintue and turning the truck on off playing with the shifter I could get it to shift. Latley its had a delay in its shift, I go from park to D and abour 1-2 seconds later the truck with jerk telling me it finally shifted.

What should I do guys? does the whole tranny need a rebuild after 160K miles? Just makes no sense it will go through all the gears in 4lo and thats it. I have been reading on a tranny swap when mine went bad just did not think It would be this soon. From what I gathers the 5 speed and auto are like night and day as far a performance. The Auto slugs down the 3.0 (mostly from what I hear is because the pump in the auto also has to control the hydralic transfercase meaning its almost like two autos behind one motor and the stock TC doesnt keep up bogging the whole truck down. I would still like to keep an Auto so i heard the AW4 from a jeep will take the bell housing from my auto and bolt up letting me use a seprate gear driven xfer case hopefully solving the problem the auto in it now does to MPG and acceleration.

Well guys tell me what u think. how bad is it? easy fix or am i looking at a rebuild possibly a tranny swap?

thook

The TPS on the throttle body is related to transmission operations. If you look in this diagram, you can see where the TPS falls in the circuit.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34electron.pdf

The transmission is electronic and so relies on TPS input for throttle angle and load range. If the transmission operates normally in low 4wd, then it's safe to assume nothing is mechanically wrong with it.

I'd start by inspecting the throttle body. See why it's sticking and if it's somehow related to the mechanical operation of the TPS.....ie, the return spring. Then again, the throttle cable may just need adjusting, or is sticking, or is damaged and in need of replacement.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...30generalt.pdf

Look on page 116.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...32prelimin.pdf

These are good places to start.

MRecio

Well this morning the throttle still got stuck if u opened her up pas 50% or so but she shifted in high range... Idont trust her not to strand me somewhere but did notice taking her down the street for a test drive she stutter a lot in first even though i can only give her half power... whats is going on with my TRUCK anyone got some ideas for me?

thook

You have to understand the automatic has two speed sensors. It picks up on everything your motor is doing.

Did you follow any of the suggestions I've already made?

MRecio

It was late and didnt get a chance to really do much last night and didnt haver time this morning I downloaded the pdf's and going to look through them tonight and check em out. im not worried about fixing the tps and such as im worried about the stuttering it had in 1st this morning. but ill see where i stand after i get the tps working and check it all out. hopefully thr is nothing wrong internally that decided to show itself now.


BTW you said to lookon page 119 but there doesnt seem to be one... it goes to 118 on one and then the next one starts at 120... can you check to see which page it was i should be looking at?

SEAIRESCUE

I've seen more than one instance where the throttle cable rusts on the inside and the cable sticks. Pull the kickdown cable off the throttle body and see if you can pull it up and retract it smoothly. If there is a problem, run oil down the cable to free it up. If not this, pull the pan and look at the circular part that the other end of the cable attaches to. Rotate it to see if its free. Speed sensor could have crapped out too. Its on the rear of the transmission, passenger side. Easy to replace. But, I suggest pulling codes first to see if any are being detected. Ohm the solenoids while the pan is off. They should only be a few ohms if they are still good. Check computer just in front of shifter, under carpet, to see if connector is backed out or pins have oxidation. I assume fluid level is correct when hot?

Report back with your findings.

thook

No, no....I said 116. Reread the post.

The stuttering could be related to the TPS....if it's sticking. It may not be sticking, though. The more I think about it, I believe the throttle cable is your problem. The TPS is reading one thing while the speed sensor is reading another as far as how fast your engine and vehicle are going, and so the ECU is getting mixed signals and fuel mix and shifting times are being affected. When you have time, look at it all. But, I'd address the sticking throttle/cable first. See where that gets you.

thook

Actually, the speed sensor is on the driver's side....about mid-way of the transmission/t-case assembly. The FSM diagram is misleading because it "appears" to be on the rear in the drawing. The one on the rear is for the transfer case. It has three pins instead of two. What exactly it does, I'm not sure yet. But, the speed sensor is a bugger to get to. Atleast, the connector is. How do I know? I'm in the middle of testing my own. I have to pull the exhaust pipe down to even have room enough to get my hands up to where the connector is tied in with some other cables. Pain and agony....

MRecio

[QUOTE=thook;50758287]No, no....I said 116. Reread the post.QUOTE]

I see what you did there. Well I feel kind of dumb as far as the TB sticking goes. Turns out the hose clamp connecting my intake tube to the TB worked its way up and was catching a bracket coming off the TPS sensor as it came down. quick fix but as far as the transmission goes I just dont get it... its failed to shift on me twice before this but I was able to fiddle it into working within a mintue or two. Now when I got home I fixed the throttle body, pulled the EFI fuse (I always does this ahaha no matter what I am doing it seems) and took it for a test drive. It drives perfectly fine, still like a dog, but fine. the stuttering it was doing with the computer disconnected from the tranny is gone with the computer hooked up (doesnt make sense) now am at a lost for where to start to track this problem down as I have nothing to test now cause its all working for now.

I still think I should tear our the A340H buy a AW4 and a Gear driven Xfer and call it A DAY. I am unsure though what XFER would be good to use and if it would bolt to my stock drive shaft and the current wiring for the transmission anyone ever done this or looked into it? Ive read in on it a bit and i know they BOLT up but it never seems to state if they connect to the stock wiring for the toyota or the driveshafts.

thook

See what I did? What do you mean? What did I do?

You failed to mention the transmission was disconnected from the ECU. How was it disconnected exactly? An electronically controlled transmission is never going to operate correctly not being able to receive input from the ECU circuits. The only time that transmission operates mechanically....as opposed to electronically....is in park and reverse. Otherwise, all of it's shifting relies totally on voltage input....and consequently affects the operation of the engine. Hence, engine stuttering.

Read this page carefully. You may have done some damage, but since you're wanting another tranny, I suppose it doesn't matter.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14operatio.pdf

MRecio

when i read through it it mentioned disconnecting the tranny to check the mechanical aspect of the tranny to make sure it functions, D=O\D, 2=3rd, L=1sr. said it can be used to rule out mechanical failure so you can focus on the electronic side of the transmisison. so i dont think i damaged anything doing it. but it seems a sensor somewhere is going out from time to time just not sure how to pinpoint it when it will work 98% of the time...

thook

Okay, I see. The picture becomes clearer. I thought maybe you were just running around with it disconnected.

So, when you ran the test, did it shift through the ranges normally?

MRecio

Yea it shifted fine but like i said it stuttered really bad in 1st like it was slipping but it didnt do it when it was hooked to the computer so im assuming everything mechanically is ok guess my AW4 Dream will have to wait.. in the mean while i gotta do more research on which sensors could be bad.

thook

Guess what? You are correct. The FSM is wrong....dead wrong! And, consequently, I was mistaken. The #2 speed sensor is on the rear of the tran/t-case assembly pass. side.

Regardless, if anyone were to have problems with this sensor, it controls the speedo. So, no sensor....no speedo. My speedo was behaving erratically, tested the sensor (the right one) and it was showing an erratic signal.