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Attn: 3VZE cam timing experts

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Old 11-24-2007, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by thook
You have to drop the oil pan to get to the bottom end. The rod bearing caps are in there. If you don't have this, it will help.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/69cylin.pdf

I hope you have an engine stand. It just makes it easier than working on the floor.....or is that a table you're working on?
The engine is on a stand, been there since the beginning. I know I need to drop the pan and remove the crank, etc. to get the pistons out. The question is, what would be the best way to get the 2 pistons out that are no longer connected to the rods? I am assuming I should push them out the top of the cylinder, rather that try to pull/push them out the bottom, since they are at the top of the cylinder. I'm not sure how much force will be needed to get them out (like I said, looks like that one piston hasn't moved in a while). I suppose oiling the cylinder walls before removal might be a good idea.
Old 11-24-2007, 06:00 AM
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3VZE woes

Well, here's the pan dropped. As you can see, a chunk was blown out of the block. Should I continue, or get a new block? Not positive, but I think the chunk is an oil port.







Old 11-24-2007, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Cyberman
The engine is on a stand, been there since the beginning. I know I need to drop the pan and remove the crank, etc. to get the pistons out. The question is, what would be the best way to get the 2 pistons out that are no longer connected to the rods? I am assuming I should push them out the top of the cylinder, rather that try to pull/push them out the bottom, since they are at the top of the cylinder. I'm not sure how much force will be needed to get them out (like I said, looks like that one piston hasn't moved in a while). I suppose oiling the cylinder walls before removal might be a good idea.
Okay, it's just that I'm going by your words and pics, so good you have a stand. And it seemed as though you weren't sure 'bout dropping the pan, so I was just confirming.

The FSM procedure is the best way I know of. So, your correct in assuming through the top. There is a tool for doing that you ought to be able to rent at a parts store. If not, check with Harbor Freight for an inexpensive one or borrow one from someone you know. That's what I do most of the time. But, I have friends with tools.... If it's really buggered up in there some penetrating fluid would help and lubing it is a good idea, however that block looks pretty screwed from the volume of chunks. I mean a crack or something like that could be welded, but what you're dealing with is beyond repair.

Have you considered just buying an already rebuilt motor...or even a used one? There's plenty of good sources recommended here on the site. I don't know, it's just a thought. Unless you're really adamant about rebuilding this one for your own good reasons, maybe weigh the costs, time spent, and effort between rebuilding and buying. You'll need a new block, but you may also need new heads. I don't know....I'm just wondering and guessing because that chaulky crap looks a lot like electrolysis has been happening. But, if the heads check out fine then I'm wrong. Then, just get a used block (I have one, but I'd have to look it over real well before I felt good about selling it) to rebuild. Hopefully, you're pistons and crank, etc. are repairable. with all those chunks and the shape of that piston it seems unlikely.

But, like I said I'm going by your pics and such and it's hard for me to really tell exactly what all is going on. So, take what I say with a grain of salt if you wish. I just get the feeling you've opened a can of worms.
Old 11-24-2007, 07:34 AM
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I have no problems rebuilding an engine, it was my plan in the first place before finding what I did. Like you said, I'm weighing my options. I have a local guy here who might have a bottom end. Was hoping to salvage this motor for the rebuild, but the more I look at that chunk, the more it looks like I should get a different block, at the very least. I guess I'll continue to tear this thing down, unless someone tells me to just forget about it.
Old 11-24-2007, 07:49 AM
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Due to the damage, you will have to take the block and heads to a shop to determine what is good and what is junk. IF a piston hit a head, it may have an internal crack. I had a rod bearing disintegrate on #4 and when torn down, it was obvious the piston had been hitting the head. It was later determined that the head was cracked from the hammering. If you have two broken rods, you probably have little to salvage in the block. BUT, again, have it all cleaned at a shop and then go back to see what the foreman has to say unless you now find chunks taken out of the block, or the main bearing support or the crank. Even if the big parts are repairable, you are looking at a overbore, crank turned and several new rods plus all the others resized and checked for straightness, etc..

Best of luck with that mess.....obviously the PO did not take care of the engine.

Last edited by SEAIRESCUE; 11-24-2007 at 07:50 AM.
Old 11-24-2007, 07:56 AM
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Ah! Well, good then.

Yeah man, that really looks like you're going to find other problems the more you dig. I'd get a different block.....one worth rebuilding. There's no telling the damage done by those particles....unless, of course, you tear it down just to look at the bearings and crank. Hell, you might even have a bent rod. But, I'm going to assume you were thinking of new pistons anyway?

Get the heads checked. If all else....other than the block....looks fine, then go to town. From appearances, the motor looks fairly clean. But, how many miles were on it before the PO's killed it?
Old 11-24-2007, 08:00 AM
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I could be wrong ( I seriously doubt it), but from the looks of that oil.....aside from the obvious large chunks of engine matter...you've a spun bearing or two. Get another bottom end, guy.

Last edited by thook; 11-24-2007 at 08:01 AM.
Old 11-24-2007, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by thook
Ah! Well, good then.

Yeah man, that really looks like you're going to find other problems the more you dig. I'd get a different block.....one worth rebuilding. There's no telling the damage done by those particles....unless, of course, you tear it down just to look at the bearings and crank. Hell, you might even have a bent rod. But, I'm going to assume you were thinking of new pistons anyway?

Get the heads checked. If all else....other than the block....looks fine, then go to town. From appearances, the motor looks fairly clean. But, how many miles were on it before the PO's killed it?
Okay, I'll look for another block. The more I think of it, I really don't want to put this one back in and have to deal with pulling it again. The truck had just over 150k.
Old 11-24-2007, 08:37 AM
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Hmmm....150k. Well, you know you need a new block. You'll see about the heads. And the front end, you've got a little while longer on some of those parts (according to the average). But I'd be suspsicious of the water and oil pumps. New belt...definitely. Coming up....probably a few new sensors. Anway, all told, if those heads fail inspection seriously consider more than just a block....like an entire motor. But, weight the costs.

Last edited by thook; 11-24-2007 at 09:02 AM.
Old 11-25-2007, 05:25 AM
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Well, these will be the last pics I post for this engine. After taking off the baffle plate above the pan, I found the mains for the front 2 cylinders were gone. Cylinder 2's rod was completely gone, while cylinder 1's rod was still attached to the piston. I was surprised at how dry the entire crank was in the front, almost like it was driven for a while. What I haven't been able to figure out, is whether both cylinders went at the same time, or one was gone for a while. Cylinder 2 has a pretty clean piston face, compared to the rest. But, that rod was completely gone, and apparently caused all the damage, including knocking a chunk out of the oil passage between the filter and the cooler. The other puzzling thing about that is that oil passes through the crank from the front to the rear, yet the rear cylinders seemed to be getting oil.

Anyway, here are the final pics, if anyone wants to speculate on what happened.

RIP little 3VZE...

Main Cap Blown


Crank dry and worn


#2 Cylinder with no rod to speak of


#1 Cylinder with rod bearing gone


Some remains of the #2 rod and wrist pin, #1 rod bearing and main cap
Old 11-25-2007, 12:42 PM
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I bet what happened is the headgasket failed, PO ran it as was, didn't bother to atleast maintain the oil and coolant levels, the piston stopped firing right and progressively wore the cylinder wall and rod bearing/cap, the particles from that and block rust and old, overly acid coolant built up sludging the oil (on top of low oil levels), blocked proper circulation consequently starving the first row of pistons and top end, and eventually the piston/s seized blowing the motor. It would interesting to see just how bad the heads are.

That thing was seriously neglected.....and that's too bad. Sorry for your disappointment, Cyberman. I hope you didn't pay too much for the vehicle.
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