Wildcat_4R

I am looking to replace the bushings in both my upper and lower control arms in the near future. I was wondering what bushings are recommended? I came across some through autopartswarehouse that are under the Moog name: http://replacement.autopartswarehous...%20Kit&dp=true

Anyone have an opinion on these? Any info or links would be greatly appreciated.

MudHippy

I would go with the polyurethane, rubber wont last as long. I will be getting some like the ones here when I do mine.
http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_Toyota.htm

That price is a little whack as well.

Marc P

I was planning on replacing mine, but when I saw how much work was involved I decided to go another route....good luck

MudHippy

Yeah, I shoulda said "if" I replace mine.

Yota82

[sarcasm] Here is a good write up about replacing IFS bushings:
http://firstrung.co.uk/dbimgs/iStock...of%20worms.jpg [/sarcasm]

gonzo

LMFAO

ovrrdrive

I had to replace one of my LCA bushings when I did my lift and quickly decided that it was something I didn't want to fool with...

$50 later for an OEM bushing and $15 to press it in its all good.

Yota82

The lower a arm bushings are not the hard ones. The upper's are. The bushing, cross shaft and the a arm all come off as one assembly. I needed the metal sleeves out of a set of upper arms bushings once, I found the best way to get the bushings out was to take a torch, light the bushings on fire and walk away and let them burn for 10 minutes or so until the completely melted. It is a major PITA.

hodgepodge79

subscribing

ovrrdrive

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ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HEY, EVERYONE, ..... please revive this thread with me? hahaha. I Need to decide to do them or just forget it! lol... However, .... I think my rear/lower bushing is starting to 'peel' a lil.....I'd had to re-do nearly my entire IFS(in about a week), and NOT do the bushings, .... BUT HOLY CRAPOLI! lol. Buddy says once we get my A-arms out I can have his spares(he went LT) and we can just use his Hydrol. Press to push the old out and new in.... Is it really not so bad if you have all the right tools/equip? Or is it just TERRIBLE, no matter what? lol. I also wanted to know if the UCA Bushings are as often to go bad as the LCA's ones.... I looked up in there and the uppers don't 'APPEAR' to be bad, ...but after 24 years???????

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, so would thoughts on which are the best route to go(Poly, OEM, etc.)

PS> Please, don't remind me it's an old thread,.... I KNOW, lol. Feel free to razz if you must, but PLEASE, at least give an answer along with it? hahaha.

82yota

I changed mine out a few months ago with the ones from Rocky Mountain. It was a real pain. I kinda really wish now that I had of just thrown the solid axle under the truck thats sitting under the 81 in my yard. It took longer than I had planned and I have all the tools including a press. The biggest pain was getting the metal bits from the stock bushings which inevitably came to burning them out with a torch. If I were in the position again I would have just driven it until I came up with a little money for the springs and jigs for a SAS.

rlordjr

I just did what 82Yota described - burn it all out. Others have soaked the bushing ends of the control arms in gasoline to soften them up. I used paint thinner and flame to get them melty then they slide out nice. Used more paint thinner and more fire to get every last bit of rubber out of the bores. Oh, and just pile up the removed bushings, soak with thinner and set on fire again to get the metal bits out. I used a simple propane torch. An Oxyfuel rosebud would work but it is so much hotter you risk damaging the metal.

I only did one side and it is such a pain in the arse that I'm going to at least take the arms from the other side to a shop for the pressing if'n I don't have them to do the whole blamed thing.

SmoothPelican

ok i replaced my uca bushing. took the arm to the shop and had them press old out and new in. well they didnt stake the nut back. my question is, do i just line it back up and stake it where it was previously staked or do i torque it down a certain amout and then make a new stake in the nut? the nut im talking about is the 27mm one. manual just says to take it to a shop. im a lil confused here. thanks

offset442

Just torque that puppy down and re-stake no mater where it lands, my experience it it will land close to the previous stake, don't frightened if it doesn't.

I did these parts on both my 00 tacoma and my 88 pu, a bit of torching and some work with a coarse wire wheel, cleaned all, you just have to heat everything with a torch to about 500 degrees, the old rubber turns to black goo and you can just push the center bushing stright out and the rubber core, just slides right out of the outer shell.

WORD OF WARNING: DO not over heat the shell or the control arm, over 700F or it will loose its temper and deform under normal load,

A Good way to tell how hot it is without a IR thermo gun, is to clean spot to shiny metal, DO NOT EVER heat it up past the point that blue oxide forms when you take the torch away thats 600F, yellowish brown and canary yellow oxide formation temperatures are about the right heat to turn the rubber into to goo and form between 400F and 500F respectively

also I recommend going poly-urethane it will make the next bushing change less like a super challenge and more like a quick swap

Ocean

Ocean

ra33it

So, I just did my wheel bearings, rotors, added ball joints, and spacers.
I dropped the 4.10 diff and swapped in the 4.88.

I have the upper and lower bushings....and I'm dreading doing this.
I don't have a press, but there's one right up the street at a local shop. I think I'm going to head over and have them press my a-arm bushings and while I'm there I have them push in my wheel bearings too.... fingers x'd for tomorrow morning.

ra33it

Those staked 27mm bolts are not fun to undo, even after unstaking. I had a buddy stand on the arm while I used a 3 foot cheater on a 2foot 1/2" breaker......if I had let go of the bar I probably would've sent the cheater over to my neighbors house

wii_tarded

oh boy,

I search for help in doing this my self and this is the tread that comes up...I'm in trouble. I will be replacing all bushings soon in the T4R, and was also looking for advise on where and what to buy. I will be able to take the arms to a shop, but what's this about a metal sleeve to be saved and ??reused??. I was under the impression that you cleared the "socket" of the arm by what ever means needed, and just pressed in the new bushing-job done..

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Wii, .... i'm about to tackle this, too. Maybe ask a shop that's going to press them out and in for you, .... "What exactly do IIIIIIII need to do?" Preferably a suspension shop?... I got all 8 Bushings, OEM, from dealerdirectparts.com, .... spoke to the guy on the phone, Jeff I believe, and he was REALLY helpful, making sure he spoke to the main dealer parts warehouse technicians, ....and they confirmed the numbers for him. I paid around 50$ less, AT LEAST, for all 8, than if I'd bought them at the dealer, even with my 20% off. My upper stops have the metal sleeve on them, unlike most replacement bushings I've seen, where many melt the stuff out, etc. I saved so much I got a set of 8 Sway Bar bushings, too, lol. I also got my lower Ball Joints there, .....also OVER 50% less than dealer w/discount. They're in AZ... might be worth a call. I just figured, ...mine lasted 20-PLUS years, no problems... might do well to trust the same ones, ya know? lol. Just my personal choice... not knocking ANYTHING, Poly or otherwise.

Best wishes, ...you'll get it, PITA or not! lol.

wii_tarded

Where are each located, (got all 8 Bushings, OEM, ) and what type of bushings are they? My factory pass. side upper front has melted away after years of oil leaks and power steering fluid leaks on it from the old 3.0. Since I have the truck down to do one, might as well do all (mine is 21 years old) along with MOOG ball joints, shocks on all corners, manual hubs and maybe even new rotors. I've been looking at www.rockauto.com and JC whitney, which seem to have good prices, but know nothing of brands and durability and reputation.