Anyone running 63's and IFS?
May 2, 2009 | 07:11 PM
#22
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,024
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From: Souderton, PA
i can stuff the rears and chunk the rear tires in the fenders
the fronts rub turning and with suspension movement it sounds like the tires are gunna rip off the fenders
but not bad haha
im goin wheelin tomorrow and takin the fenders off
the fronts rub turning and with suspension movement it sounds like the tires are gunna rip off the fenders
but not bad haha
im goin wheelin tomorrow and takin the fenders off
May 2, 2009 | 09:17 PM
#23
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 53
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From: Sacramento, CA
also check out Ford F150 Springs or the springs from the rear of mid 90's explorers. the explorer springs are mounted under the axle stock so they have a near perfect amount of arch for the correct ride height and are very flexible. theyre 56" long
May 3, 2009 | 10:20 AM
#27
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
But seriously, I can't stand my rear setup, stiff as dually... I really want to do the 63" chevy setup.
Looks like the sky kit is pretty nice, I suppose their u-bolt flip kit that matches is worth the $55..
May 3, 2009 | 03:59 PM
#28
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,024
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From: Souderton, PA
Just got back from wheelin with the 35s....size was cool, rubbed alot on compressed turns on the pinch weld....could just pound that flat and I'd probably be ok. The rear rubs when i flex out the back, again, some trimming would do wonders. The tires being well beyond worn held me back alot. But I'd like to run the 35s with a 1" body lift and see happens..to bad the next time the 35s go on is when its SASed so IFS clearance wont be an issue
I'll get some pics up later of the 63s and 35s, I wasn't the "camera guy"
I'll get some pics up later of the 63s and 35s, I wasn't the "camera guy"
May 6, 2009 | 01:09 PM
#29
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 684
Likes: 2
From: North Georgia
Barrel of springs:
Fun in the shop
Rustbucket's 88 with his new Chebbies and 33's.
We used BudBuilt hardware and Energy Suspension bushings.
Mounting positions: 11" front and 4" rear.
Whitey with BJ spacers and Chebbies and 31s.
SKY kit was used, and the original bushings were retained in the Chebbies.
Whitey with his new SaS and a 5-leaf Chebby pack and 33's
Fun in the shop
Rustbucket's 88 with his new Chebbies and 33's.
We used BudBuilt hardware and Energy Suspension bushings.
Mounting positions: 11" front and 4" rear.
Whitey with BJ spacers and Chebbies and 31s.
SKY kit was used, and the original bushings were retained in the Chebbies.
Whitey with his new SaS and a 5-leaf Chebby pack and 33's
Last edited by misterzee; May 7, 2009 at 07:39 AM.
May 7, 2009 | 07:30 AM
#31
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 684
Likes: 2
From: North Georgia
We started with the "3-leaf" set from a 1500 2wd, and removed the overload. Its working pretty well on Little Red.
On Whitey, I installed the same setup with the overload retained. The truck tail sank when I loaded it up at Lowe's... so I went back to my supplier and asked for "The 5-leaf type"... meaning from a 4wd... 4+overload. What I got was 5+overload, and that overload was like 3/4" thick! (must have come from a 2500) I swapped in the smaller overload from the other set, and installed all 5+OL leaves. It still does not ride stiff, but you can stack bricks on it now if you need to. Still has decent droop too. win-win
On Whitey, I installed the same setup with the overload retained. The truck tail sank when I loaded it up at Lowe's... so I went back to my supplier and asked for "The 5-leaf type"... meaning from a 4wd... 4+overload. What I got was 5+overload, and that overload was like 3/4" thick! (must have come from a 2500) I swapped in the smaller overload from the other set, and installed all 5+OL leaves. It still does not ride stiff, but you can stack bricks on it now if you need to. Still has decent droop too. win-win
May 7, 2009 | 08:21 AM
#33
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 684
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From: North Georgia
It depends on the model of truck. On our first gen, the front hanger gets installed about 11" ahead of the stock hanger, and the rear goes 4" behind the stock hanger.
May 7, 2009 | 09:21 AM
#34
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Souderton, PA
The 4" behind the stock hanger is for chevys, not fords
May 8, 2009 | 02:53 PM
#35
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,825
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From: Inverness,FL
any 1 got a pic of ford springs installed, with the factory rear hanger retained?? ive been looking on pirate but there all pro's lol with bobbed beds and tube buggies and e and dont have the rear axle in the original position, im not goin that far but would like some freebie flex
May 8, 2009 | 06:01 PM
#36
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,024
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From: Souderton, PA
An awesome response I got on my build thread for F150 springs
I got mine from a late 90's 4wd F-150. They were three leaf plus overload, they are 57" long and around 2.5" wide. In my '85, you basically you do everything you would do for the chevy spring except the rear hanger, you can use the stock hanger for that. (not really sure if the measurement is different for a 1st gen pickup) You get the springs and run them backwards from the way they were in the ford. (they are 31.5" from center pin to rear, thus you turn them around)
I am running a 6" eye to eye shackle with mine and I left half the overload in. I got somewhere around 4" of lift from them with this setup.
I assume with a smaller shackle and no overload you could drop it it down to 2" pretty easily.
I don't have any really good pics to show the lift. I have some pics on 34's with a 1" body lift plus these:
You can see the springs here (these were all taken during fender trimming)
This is the link for Chevy springs, read it over (as I said, all the same steps, minus the rear hanger). If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...threadid=20665
I am running a 6" eye to eye shackle with mine and I left half the overload in. I got somewhere around 4" of lift from them with this setup.
I assume with a smaller shackle and no overload you could drop it it down to 2" pretty easily.
I don't have any really good pics to show the lift. I have some pics on 34's with a 1" body lift plus these:
You can see the springs here (these were all taken during fender trimming)
This is the link for Chevy springs, read it over (as I said, all the same steps, minus the rear hanger). If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...threadid=20665
May 8, 2009 | 06:31 PM
#37
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,825
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From: Inverness,FL
SWEEET, now all i have to do is get a welder.....
so its definitive about a 6" rear shackle fabed and move the front spring hanger forward 11" on the frame right? and thats from the old hanger eye to new hanger eye? sorry for the thread hijack just hanvent had any luck searching....
so its definitive about a 6" rear shackle fabed and move the front spring hanger forward 11" on the frame right? and thats from the old hanger eye to new hanger eye? sorry for the thread hijack just hanvent had any luck searching....
May 8, 2009 | 06:45 PM
#38
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,024
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From: Souderton, PA
Yep for Fords
6" shackles
Stock rear hanger
New front hanger 11" forward (eye-to-eye) of old front hanger
I'll post sky's link again, most complete kit for a good price, for the frond swap, just set the rear hangers aside and use the rest.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=125
6" shackles
Stock rear hanger
New front hanger 11" forward (eye-to-eye) of old front hanger
I'll post sky's link again, most complete kit for a good price, for the frond swap, just set the rear hangers aside and use the rest.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=125
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