Anyone know how big this nut is?
07-19-2009, 01:42 PM
#1
Anyone know how big this nut is?
No idea what it's called, as my mechanical experience is very limited, especially with this fairly new-to-me 4runner.
I've had it for a few months now, got it cheap as a project. It's always had a bit of a clunk on the right front when going over a particularly large bump or dip to quickly, but that has developed into an extremely annoying rattle just going down the road.
Anyway, I took the tire off and started manhandling stuff to see if I could duplicate the noise, and sure enough, there's a good 1/4" gap at the top and bottom of this assembly, whatever it is, that makes that noise. Seems like I should be able to take the nut off, drop a couple of washers or somesuch on, and put it back on. Only thing is it is on there GOOD, and I don't have the right size wrench. Seems just a bit larger than a 17mm, but I'm not sure how much. 19mm maybe? Got a marginal phone pic, if it's not clear enough I can get a better one with a camera.
I've had it for a few months now, got it cheap as a project. It's always had a bit of a clunk on the right front when going over a particularly large bump or dip to quickly, but that has developed into an extremely annoying rattle just going down the road.
Anyway, I took the tire off and started manhandling stuff to see if I could duplicate the noise, and sure enough, there's a good 1/4" gap at the top and bottom of this assembly, whatever it is, that makes that noise. Seems like I should be able to take the nut off, drop a couple of washers or somesuch on, and put it back on. Only thing is it is on there GOOD, and I don't have the right size wrench. Seems just a bit larger than a 17mm, but I'm not sure how much. 19mm maybe? Got a marginal phone pic, if it's not clear enough I can get a better one with a camera.
07-19-2009, 04:00 PM
#6
Contributing Member
yep yep, that be yee Idler Arm 
a VERY comon item to ware out with normal driving, and if you wheel the truck then it's only a matter of time before you kill the bushings in it, or bend it, lol
yeah I would say just rebuild it, but if you're automotive knowelge is limited, you're probably better off just buying a hole new one and replacing the entire assembly, but that will cost you more
for the rebuild, you can get factory replacement plastic bushings that ware faster, or get aftermarket brass bushings that will hold up a lot better
if you go the route of replacing the entire thing, all it takes is to remove the 3 bolts that hold it to the frame (all 17mm bolts and nuts if I'm not mistaken), and a pitman arm remover to get the ball-socket end off the relay/tie rod.
if it's to the point of making that much noise and wiggles that much, you'll also notice a HUGE change in the general stability of the truck while driving on the road after installing a new one with no play. It was almost a night and day difference when I replaced mine; just feels so much safer
a VERY comon item to ware out with normal driving, and if you wheel the truck then it's only a matter of time before you kill the bushings in it, or bend it, lol
yeah I would say just rebuild it, but if you're automotive knowelge is limited, you're probably better off just buying a hole new one and replacing the entire assembly, but that will cost you more
for the rebuild, you can get factory replacement plastic bushings that ware faster, or get aftermarket brass bushings that will hold up a lot better
if you go the route of replacing the entire thing, all it takes is to remove the 3 bolts that hold it to the frame (all 17mm bolts and nuts if I'm not mistaken), and a pitman arm remover to get the ball-socket end off the relay/tie rod.
if it's to the point of making that much noise and wiggles that much, you'll also notice a HUGE change in the general stability of the truck while driving on the road after installing a new one with no play. It was almost a night and day difference when I replaced mine; just feels so much safer
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 07-19-2009 at 04:02 PM.
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07-19-2009, 04:18 PM
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Ummmmm. He just told you ^^^. If you really have to ask that you should probly just take it somewhere and have them do it. From that picture you can see the 3 bolts holding it to the frame. That plus a pitman arm remover and your done. Like he just said... Up there... ^^^....
07-19-2009, 04:34 PM
#10
Didn't read before I posted last. Not familiar with this pittman thing.
After monkeying with it a bit, it seems absurdly easy to just replace the bushings and grease seals, as per the above link. Anyone happen to know the part numbers for the bushings, dust/grease seals, and cap?
After monkeying with it a bit, it seems absurdly easy to just replace the bushings and grease seals, as per the above link. Anyone happen to know the part numbers for the bushings, dust/grease seals, and cap?
Last edited by nevermore1701; 07-19-2009 at 05:34 PM.
07-19-2009, 05:57 PM
#11
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judging by previous posts, i would suggest buying a new one, you'll be into it for more money than it's worth if you happen to ruin a seal, or bushing during the replacement.
07-19-2009, 06:01 PM
#12
The parts are a couple of bucks each, and I've already had it apart and back together now, that part is way easy.
07-19-2009, 06:26 PM
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07-19-2009, 09:23 PM
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really? did you even call them? ive gone to 4 or 5 dealers and only one had stupid parts guys and thats because it was a GM dealer too and they hated toyotas. Those parts shouldnt be too expensive, and you know what they are so they shouldnt be too hard to describe.
07-19-2009, 09:32 PM
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Wasn't the Geo Prism the same as a Corolla? Ever look close at the Malibu and notice it's a Camry in disguise? And the Pontiac Vibe IS a Toyota Matrix....
Too bad GM went to Isuzu for their trucks instead of Toyota.
And Honda / Acura uses Isuzu for their SUV's.... 
Last edited by abecedarian; 07-19-2009 at 09:35 PM.
07-20-2009, 02:24 PM
#19
