You're right. It doesn't make much sense. Haha

So since it turns on the ATF light I wonder what will happen when I put it in my truck with a 5 speed...? I'm not going to dig into it to find out. I already took the bulbs out of the sockets for the lights I don't need.

Thanks for all the help guys! I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Hey sparks, with a little caution, you can disassemble old/new units, and just switch the odometer between them. Waaay easier. Read superbleeder's thread. All of it. He breaks down all the do's and don'ts of it, and how to swap odometers.

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Oh wait. I got that headlight pin wrong. B1 is the highbeam indicator light. B2 is the "starter relay". Except as far as I can tell there is no bulb check relay anywhere. That metal can IS the bulb check relay. It gets power from the starter relay and when it gets power it turns on the AT Oil temp warning light and your brake warning light.

What's odd is that this pin is officially not populated in my FSM wiring guide. Since this only shows up on SR5 gauge clusters I wonder if my manual doesn't cover this explicitly or if I'm missing pages.

Anyway, if you leave it on it just don't do anything if your harness doesn't have B2 populated.

 

Yea I saw that. It was easy enough taking the odometer out of the speedometer. I just figured I wasn't going to be doing this in the next couple of days and would rather only have to take one speedometer apart while I can still drive the truck rather than two when the truck is down during the swap. It could save me a potential headache if I were to run into a problem. I also saw on his thread that the needle is difficult to get off the deluxe cluster and figured if I was going to take the chance of breaking something and have to take them both apart anyway I may as well eliminate that chance and not have to worry about it. Plus it kept my hands busy for a few hours while I watched a movie

And I'm a big fan of taking things apart...just cuz I can.

 

Ah. Yeah my DLX needle was a ______ . I was just really careful about turning counter clockwise only. Tried rolling the new odometer ahead first, but the digits weren't lining up perfect. Said screw it, and swapped odo. Tested all bulbs with meter, and then stuck the speedo needle on 5 MPH fast...dangit. Already used to it, so I may just leave it. Love the tach.

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I'm looking forward to the tach and actual oil pressure.

A lot of what I've read about adjusting the tach says you have to check resistance across terminals. This seems like a lot of taking the gauge in and out and hoping you got it right. I'm just going to hook up my timing light (i can read RPMs on it too) and adjust the tach until they match. I think this way will give me a more accurate reading...and much faster too.

 

Yep. That's how I did it. Mine was from a v6, read resistance for a 4cyl...backwards from the writeups. So I set it against my service tach, 1k, 2k, 3k rpms. Works great. Used some big solder wire, bent at 90*, flattened and trimmed to fit the screw on the pot. Its touchy.

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Greetings! I got sort of lazy and didn't read the second page(it wasn't fully loaded till I logged in). The manual (page be-46, of combinat.pdf linked here somewhere search for it) indicates it as "Bulb check relay", it's connected to right to left, A11 (P-Brake) and D4 (Trans temp), B2(Starter-relay), and C9 (Ground). It appears to ground the B2 line when the transistor is activated..

*edit* I assumed that was an NPN transistor, it's more likely a PNP. Makes more sense to toggle the lights than the starter circuits.

 

93 and 95 Cluster wiring side by side

*EDIT* To clear up any confusions, what they did was change the number/lettering around from 94 to 95. abcd <=> dcba eg. same wires in the same positions.

 

No, my gauge is stationary, doesn't have that.

 

The arcing fuel gauge is spring loaded so it returns to empty. No idea why they left the spring off of the horizontal one, I guess it's so you know if someone siphoned your tank, the other three in the SR5 (iirc) have return springs.

 

It was a guess
I think Co_94_PU figured it out.

 

Hey sparks. Did that cluster work for you? The one I got at the junkyard has that extra board on it too. It came out of a 95 auto v6 4runner. My pickup is a 89 too.

 

Worked fine. I took all the extra bulbs out before I put it in. no problems with anything. Check out my build thread. I found an easy way to adjust the tach that will help you with yours.