my 3vz-e needs a new knock sensor wire just a quick question as to wether or not the timing belt or water pump need to be re-moved to get the lowerer intake manifold off. Thanks guys and any other helpful guidance

 

The timing belt needs to be loosened so the upper idler pulley can be removed. The water pump can stay, unless it's time for a timing belt/water pump change anyway. Carefully following the FSM will be important as there are quite a few steps. Take some photos before you begin from as many angles as you can, especially the vacuum hoses on the passenger side of the plenum.

 

the first time you get in there can be a bit daunting, but it really isnt that bad...

heres a tip.... instead of pulling all the hoses and such from the upper plenum, just leave what u can attached, and flop it over the fender....makes life a lot easier. Also...if ur going to be in there any way...I would seriously suggest replacing the sensor itself. I had the same issue, and just replaced the pigtail, and it didnt fix my problem, I then had to go in again, and replace the sensor, which still didnt fix my problem, but would have been nice to know it was new instead of having to rip into it all over again.
My problem ended up being a vacuum leak.......

 

yea thats my plan is too just flop over the manifold. i had the head gaskets replaced in 04 along with the knock sensor from toyota (180 dollars for sensor) and the wire i bought got left in my toolbox and never given to the mechanic so im just gonna change the wire. I dont see why the sensor would be bad. its kinda weird my cel light is off every time i start my truck no code stored or can be pulled until i either rev past 4 grand in 1st gear while driving or shift into second and give it gas. i can be out wheelin and if i start it up and stay in 1st or going down hill for 5 minutes and no cel but if i shift into 2nd it pops on with code 52

 

Team420, you had a vacuum leak cause a code 52?

Where was your leak?