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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Amp problems

Old Apr 11, 2007 | 01:45 PM
  #61  
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lol maybe ill try that not!
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 01:47 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by shoes138
yea to my fuse block its a 4 gauge wire and its a 12 gauge going to the amp. but if it was a wiring problem would that effect the other amp?
What is the power rating of the other amp? What speakers are you driving with it? If it's lower power & running the upper frequencies, it won't be driving nearly as hard as the one pushing the bass.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #63  
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the bass amp is 300 watt and the other is 200watt. im not sure on the speakers in the back but i will check!
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 03:03 PM
  #64  
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This is what we know so far...

It used to work fine so that pretty much rules out the wiring unless it's a loose wire or bad connection.

The amp is going in to protect so it's either getting too hot or it is not getting the voltage it requires and is pulling too many amps.

Do I need to say it yet again?



Why haven't you had the battery checked yet?

Are you just trying to have a 20 page thread?
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #65  
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was the first video where the DMM was on your battery taken with the system pounding? If so, then your battery aint the problem...

Just where is the fuse block and how long is the 12ga run from the fuse block to the amp? If it's any longer than 4' that's your problem.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 05:52 PM
  #66  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Bump: I can guaranteffingtee you that battery, at 8 years old, ain't worth two $h!ts.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 07:12 PM
  #67  
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hahaha I never said it wasnt but if the voltage is rock steady at the battery when he's quadding out, the battery isnt at fault, it'd be something btwn the battery and the amp...(wiring)

Hey shoes, measure your battery's voltage with the engine off and the system quadding out and post that video.

I think you do have a toasted battery AND/OR your wiring is substandard. But I wanna be 100% sure before I make a statement.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 07:37 PM
  #68  
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will do sir, will get the measurement manana. im hopin its the battery ive been dying to get rid of it!
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 08:00 PM
  #69  
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well in that case get rid of it and go buy an optima blue top!!
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 08:08 PM
  #70  
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Optima is a waste of money; you can get the big yellow monster 1000 CCA battery at WalMart for @ $70 with an EIGHT YEAR warranty!
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 05:14 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by TNRabbit
Optima is a waste of money; you can get the big yellow monster 1000 CCA battery at WalMart for @ $70 with an EIGHT YEAR warranty!
I completely agree.

I had a Red-Top in a buggy, and it did OK, but just didn't maintain CA like an el-cheapo battery did. Forget driving a winch with one, or cranking over an INOP engine for more than 5 minutes. To me, it isn't worth double the price.

If I planned on mounting it sideways or upside down, then yeah, it might be worth it.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #72  
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ok well i did the measurements
bat-12.6
amp-10.6
the werid thing is it was turning off and the volume wasnt even loud. Then when i turned it up the sub started to go out! and the truck was turned off.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #73  
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2 volt difference between the battery and the amp makes me think wiring problem...

At this point I'd get a roll of 10 gauge wire from the auto parts store and temporarily run a new power wire from the battery to the amp and see if the problem goes away.

Honestly, at this point it sounds like the battery may be fine. If you get 12v to the amp it will probably be happy. It's definitely a voltage problem like I thought, but it sounds more and more like it's due to a faulty wire or connector.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 03:10 PM
  #74  
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Well,

he could run temporary wires, clean all the connections, Ohm-out every wire, do thermal scans of amplifier for heat spots, etc.

But until he swaps in a known good battery, or gets a new one, that will always be the number one suspect in this situation. Especially an 8 year old one.

It would take 5 minutes to swap in another battery...
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 04:42 PM
  #75  
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damn i thought swappin a battery would be as hard as swappin a motor. lol yea i gotta see what good batterys are out there, any suggestions? or if my battery is still good.

Last edited by shoes138; Apr 12, 2007 at 04:49 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 04:51 PM
  #76  
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Get the big yellow battery (1000 CCA) at WalMart (I forget the brand); it's awesome & has an eight year warranty. I had one go bad at 6 years & got a new one for only $38! They cost @ $70 new.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by shoes138
damn i thought swappin a battery would be as hard as swappin a motor.
Whatever! I checked out your cardomain site. I know you and electricity are friends.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 07:21 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by TNRabbit
Optima is a waste of money; you can get the big yellow monster 1000 CCA battery at WalMart for @ $70 with an EIGHT YEAR warranty!

if he were to buy a red top id agree, but I like my blue tops! MUCH better than any of my old lead-acids in term of sudden discharge...

Originally Posted by shoes138
ok well i did the measurements

bat-12.6

amp-10.6

the werid thing is it was turning off and the volume wasnt even loud. Then when i turned it up the sub started to go out! and the truck was turned off.
So this was done with the system playing? And 12.6v was the lowest voltage the battery ever dropped to?

How easily does the truck crank up in the morning?

Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; Apr 12, 2007 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:13 PM
  #79  
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she had a lil hesitation, Sometimes she doesnt starts up at all that mainly cuz of the terminals are corrided. After a couple of trys she starts up! And yea the lowest was actually 12.58 but i just rounded up.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 05:47 AM
  #80  
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the terminals are corroded? Clean them. Carbonated soda (coke, pepsi, whatever) will litereally eat away that grey'ish dust that builds up on the terminals so you can pourt that over the connections, then buy a walmart terminal cleaner for like 2 dollars. Itll has a hole with a zillion wire bristles that fits over the post. You then twist several times and it takes the first layer of lead off of the post. It also has a brush to clean the ring terminal as well.

Do that since it's cheap and free. And besides you'll eventually need that tool anyhoo. While in walmart, grab a 4ga kit (should be 30 bux) and run 4 ga back to the amps, then use the distrobution block to route a 4 foot long (or shorter) 8ga to both amps. Then ground both amps with 8ga as well.

Keep in mind your battery is DEFINATELY on it's last legs, and may need to be replaced anyhoo, but the wiring is something you need to do first before the battery.

Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; Apr 13, 2007 at 05:49 AM.
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