this is a problem im havin with my one amp as i turn up the volume on my deck the amp goes in and out. my Sub amp is fine. its seems like when a strong bass note kicks in thats when it happens and also when im at a stop, it starts going in and out. but when give her a lil gas she fine! whats the deal do i need a new battery, capicator, alternator?

 

you need to get a 4x4 and lift that puppy!



really your alternator only puts out about 30 amps at idle and the full 65A over 1500 RPM.

if this is a new issue, then either your alternator is being over worked and its wearing out, or you never compinsated for the amplifier when you installed it.
by this i mean that 2/0 positve cable that goes back to your amp, now requires you to install the same size ground wire coming off your negative battery terminal, to your chassis.

 

naw man i love my lower yota but soon ill be gettin one!

yea cuz i had this setup for a long time and it never did this to me. and now its starting to act up. i have the amps going to the battery all the same size wires. the ground goes to the chassis. but im getting confuse some guy at a local auto store told me i need a capacitor, cuz if i get a say like a 160amp alternator that it wear the crap our of my battery and wires!

 

i cant tell you anything about a capacitor, other than it stores energy. so you should talk with a stereo shop. but someone from here should chime in about that.

all im saying is the AWG must match on both sides of the battery.

 

Sounds like your sub amp is starving your battery/electrical system for juice. A cap is a good place to start, since it stores extra juice in between for those hard bass hits.

Beyond that, regrounding the battery could help, but shouldn't be necessary. What sort of battery are you running, anyway?

 

why do you think battery hook up is unessicary?

if you have a six inch pipe, open and equal on both ends, and pour water into it, from a six inch wide container, will the water run out the other side at the same rate it was filled? yes.

if you have a six inch pipe that funnels down into a one inch end, and pour water into with a six inch wide container, will the water run out at the same rate? no.

the battery cables for the positive and negative make a difference, and must be equal size.

 

getta capacitor, like previously said; it stores energy for those hard booms so it wont need as much from the alternator. Id get a cap in there before you re-wire anything, wouldn't hurt...

 

check and double check and triple check all of your grounds for your amps, dissconnect them and reconnect them because even a good looking ground needs to be fixed sometimes. i have seen this cause a problem such as yours many times.

if all is good in the ground area pull out your deck and bypass your rca cable with a new one and see if that fixes it.

what amp and subs are you running and how high is your gain?
your subs may be overdriving your amp, it doesnt take much.

if you need any more help pm me, i would be glad to help.

 

All of what you wrote makes sense, but when you are talking about the type of power requirement subs and their amps need to hit an especially hard and low note, the first step is to add a cap (assuming you've checked your grounds, made sure they are fastened to bare metal, etc.) Its more of an instant hit than a constant draw. The best comparison is to starting the vehicle- you need a lot of amps initially, then the power draw minimizes for general operation.

When I used to design large systems professionally, the first thing we did was start at the power supply (battery). For especially large systems drawing maximum current like the competition sound pressure setups, we'd run multiple batteries and capacitors to make sure the sub had enough juice for the hit.

For instance- in an old 323 hatch, we installed 2 of the old-school JL 15W6's in a ported enclosure for sound pressure. With 2 caps we still pulled less than 12 volts from the battery. We tandemed 2 more deep cycle SVR batteries and 2 more caps and wound up with a healthy 14+ volts and the owner hit 150 db (and launched his tail lights out of the car!!) at a comp.


I'd start with a cap, and verify connections along the power lines, and make sure the grounds from the amps and the battery are solid and go from there.

 

If it worked before a cap won't solve the problem.

I'm putting my money on a loose connection, bad battery or weak alternator in that order.

If the connections look good I'd take to the auto parts store and have them test the charging system.

 

any problems in the charging system and battery would kill all power to the truck and make it unable to start.

IE: Dead Battery

 

That's not true at all.

Alternators weaken over time and it's very possible that the battery is on its last leg but will still start the battery. Every single time I've ever had a charging system problem leave me stranded, I knew it was coming for several months due to the way the truck was acting.


I'd still do the charging system check.

 

I agree with Ovrrdrive. Weak charging system or battery.

 

Could be a bad voice coil in one of your speakers. If it is causing a short in the speaker and shutting down the amp.

Louder the volume the more the speaker moves and when it hits the extream points of excursion you can be seeing a short.

I would start by dissconecting each speaker individually and seeing if the problem stops with one speaker dissconected.

 

Totally agree with Tron.
I had a 12" Infinity Kappa Perfect 4ohm sub that actually had a defect and the ohmage went down to 1.
Blew my amp and almost blew it again when I tried to hook it up after it being repaired.
Point- Ohm out the speakers, double check your grounds and power wires on the battery!

 

my one amp is a 200 watt amp and my sub amp is 300. i will check the gounds around, it is very possible it could the alternator or a bad speaker coil but how could i test if is? disconnect the speakers n put in other ones??? and if i do replace the alternator would a 160amp hurt my system? my battery is pretty damn old its a diehard, its been in my truck for about 8 years now. thanks for the help guys!

 

If your battery is that old, it's toast. Start by replacing it first. Then double check all your grounds. Last resort is larger alternator. A cap isn't worth much; one good hit then your alternator is trying to resupply the cap AND provide power to your amp. Talk to Bumpin' Yota; he has @ 7,000 watts in his truck and knows this stuff better than anyone here.

 

yea i kinda figured that i had to. I was gonna post about this to him on ur thread, but i didnt wanna hyjack ur thread!

But the battery is still good isnt it? cuz it starts up my truck fine on some dayz it doesnt but if i keep on trying it works. its most likely becuase the terminals are corrided!

 

I PM'd him with this thread link. He should be along today some time....

 

While the amp is playing dissconect a speaker one at a time at the amp. If it stops shutting off when you unhook one then that is most likely your problem speaker.

I come from a stereo background so my first thoughts are that it is a amp or speaker problem not a charging or battery problem.

Thats my 2cents