Amp problems
04-14-2007, 09:39 AM
#84
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Wasn't that one of the first suggestions made on this thread?
ovrrdrive: "I'm putting my money on a loose connection, bad battery or weak alternator in that order"
ovrrdrive: "I'm putting my money on a loose connection, bad battery or weak alternator in that order"
Last edited by TNRabbit; 04-14-2007 at 09:41 AM.
04-14-2007, 10:41 AM
#86
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Well, I suggest the EverStart MAXX at WalMart; @ $70 with 1000 CCA and an 8-year warranty, but Bumpin' Yota says go with the $$$ Optima Bluetop (about $170??). Depends on what you want to spend, I guess. I don't know that the Optima is 2.5 times better than the EverStart. I've had 4 of the EverStarts & they are fantastic, plus you'll never have any problems if you need to return it to WM.
04-14-2007, 01:16 PM
#89
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lol im not askin anything. what im tryin to say is that you can return anything at walmart. i returned my two year old broken speakers back and they gave me a full refund!
04-14-2007, 02:58 PM
#90
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I have a walmart battery in my truck and in my boat. Nothing but good things to say about them - they're cheap (er) and they work fine.
Glad you got it nailed.
Thanks for the props TNRabbit. It's so rare for anyone to actually give me credit for anything these days.
Glad you got it nailed.
Thanks for the props TNRabbit. It's so rare for anyone to actually give me credit for anything these days.
04-14-2007, 03:13 PM
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yea thanxs all you guys that helped, i will be checking into the battery. but my dad is givin me crap n how if it still works then keep it and if it holds a charge then the battery is still good. Is it my battery that corrides my terminals?
04-14-2007, 03:33 PM
#93
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I pulled this from http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq3.htm
Remove any corrosion, lead oxidation, paint or rust with a brass wire battery brush or with a "ScotchBrite" pad from the terminal's mating surfaces on both ends of each battery cables, battery posts, lugs or terminals, and engine grounding strap connections. For safety, brush the corrosion away from you and wear eye protection. A stiff steel wire brush or sandpaper may damage protective lead plating on copper connectors or terminals. Corrosion is normally a white powdery substance, but could have other colors mixed in with it like gray, yellow or green. Heavy corrosion can be neutralized with a mixture of one pound of baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) to one gallon of warm water. Some folks have been known to use Diet Coke or Pepsi to dissolve corrosion. You are probably thinking why "diet"? Diet is used because it does not contain sugar which will leave a sticky residue. Bare metal to metal mating surfaces are required for very low electrical resistance and good current conductivity.
To prevent corrosion caused by batteries located under the hood, thinly coat the terminals, posts, terminal clamps, lugs and exposed metal around the battery with high temperature and water resistant wheel bearing grease, lithium grease or silicone. Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or Calcium grease is not recommended for use under the hood because they have a low melting point. Gluing a sacrificial anode, such as a piece of copper to the top of the battery between the posts or using VRLA batteries will prevent or reduce terminal corrosion. Do not use the felt or metal washers between the mating conductive surfaces with General Motors-type side terminals. For car or deep cycle batteries not subject to high temperatures, use "No Oxide A" (or the battery manufacturer's recommended grease) on the posts, lugs, terminals or connectors. Do not use the felt or metal washers between the mating conductive surfaces with side, stud or "L" terminal batteries. Use of some stainless steel alloys and other metal lugs, washers, nuts and bolts have also been known to cause problems with electrolysis and high resistance.
Corrosion is caused by one or more the following:
* Dirty or wet battery tops normally caused from expansion of electrolyte from overfilled cells or weeping from faulty battery terminal seals
* Acid fumes leaking through the vent caps, which could be a sign of overcharging
* Not enough battery box or room ventilation
* Electrolysis due to the mismatch of metal alloys used in the battery posts, lugs, terminal clamps or terminals
3.4. Tighten loose hold-down clamps to prevent excessive vibration, battery lugs, terminals and connectors.
3.5. Clean the battery top to eliminate conductive paths created by dried or wet electrolyte and to prevent corrosion.
3.6. Clean the alternator or charging system to allow better heat transfer and check the alternator belts for cracks and correct tension.
3.7. Replace any battery cables (or cable terminals) that are corroding, swelling or damaged with equal or larger diameter cable. If electrical problems are experienced in vehicles with GM's side terminal connectors, check for corrosion inside the positive terminal, lug or connector with the multiple cables. Larger cable and lugs, connectors or terminals are better because there is more surface area and less voltage drop. Please see Exide's Voltage Drop in Cables for additional information.
3.8. Replace the battery if the battery case is bulging, cracked or leaking, especially around "GM" style side terminals.
3.9. Periodically rotate batteries in a bank because the lowest capacity batteries tend to fail first and to insure that the connections are clean and tight.
Remove any corrosion, lead oxidation, paint or rust with a brass wire battery brush or with a "ScotchBrite" pad from the terminal's mating surfaces on both ends of each battery cables, battery posts, lugs or terminals, and engine grounding strap connections. For safety, brush the corrosion away from you and wear eye protection. A stiff steel wire brush or sandpaper may damage protective lead plating on copper connectors or terminals. Corrosion is normally a white powdery substance, but could have other colors mixed in with it like gray, yellow or green. Heavy corrosion can be neutralized with a mixture of one pound of baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) to one gallon of warm water. Some folks have been known to use Diet Coke or Pepsi to dissolve corrosion. You are probably thinking why "diet"? Diet is used because it does not contain sugar which will leave a sticky residue. Bare metal to metal mating surfaces are required for very low electrical resistance and good current conductivity.
To prevent corrosion caused by batteries located under the hood, thinly coat the terminals, posts, terminal clamps, lugs and exposed metal around the battery with high temperature and water resistant wheel bearing grease, lithium grease or silicone. Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or Calcium grease is not recommended for use under the hood because they have a low melting point. Gluing a sacrificial anode, such as a piece of copper to the top of the battery between the posts or using VRLA batteries will prevent or reduce terminal corrosion. Do not use the felt or metal washers between the mating conductive surfaces with General Motors-type side terminals. For car or deep cycle batteries not subject to high temperatures, use "No Oxide A" (or the battery manufacturer's recommended grease) on the posts, lugs, terminals or connectors. Do not use the felt or metal washers between the mating conductive surfaces with side, stud or "L" terminal batteries. Use of some stainless steel alloys and other metal lugs, washers, nuts and bolts have also been known to cause problems with electrolysis and high resistance.
Corrosion is caused by one or more the following:
* Dirty or wet battery tops normally caused from expansion of electrolyte from overfilled cells or weeping from faulty battery terminal seals
* Acid fumes leaking through the vent caps, which could be a sign of overcharging
* Not enough battery box or room ventilation
* Electrolysis due to the mismatch of metal alloys used in the battery posts, lugs, terminal clamps or terminals
3.4. Tighten loose hold-down clamps to prevent excessive vibration, battery lugs, terminals and connectors.
3.5. Clean the battery top to eliminate conductive paths created by dried or wet electrolyte and to prevent corrosion.
3.6. Clean the alternator or charging system to allow better heat transfer and check the alternator belts for cracks and correct tension.
3.7. Replace any battery cables (or cable terminals) that are corroding, swelling or damaged with equal or larger diameter cable. If electrical problems are experienced in vehicles with GM's side terminal connectors, check for corrosion inside the positive terminal, lug or connector with the multiple cables. Larger cable and lugs, connectors or terminals are better because there is more surface area and less voltage drop. Please see Exide's Voltage Drop in Cables for additional information.
3.8. Replace the battery if the battery case is bulging, cracked or leaking, especially around "GM" style side terminals.
3.9. Periodically rotate batteries in a bank because the lowest capacity batteries tend to fail first and to insure that the connections are clean and tight.
04-14-2007, 04:05 PM
#94
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Well for my needs the blue top fits the bill perfectly. I need roughly 1200-1400 amps of draw be instantly available to my amps. With that kind of a draw, having a very fast discharging ultra deep cycle really helps 
I think you'll be fine with those everstart max's myself.
I think you'll be fine with those everstart max's myself.
04-14-2007, 04:08 PM
#95
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shoes, take your truck down and get the charging system tested...
They should do it for you for free, and if it says the battery still has plenty of reserves then don't change it. If the battery is good I wouldn't change it.
Just keep on mind that the extra corrosion could be a sign that the capacity of the battery is going down and there is increased charging going on to maintain the proper voltage.
Usually when I start having mysterious electrical problems I don't even bother with a test, I just start with a fresh battery and go from there if it doesn't fix the problem. They are cheap enough to just replace.
Had you done that from the start though it would have fixed your problem but you wouldn't have known it was due to inadvertantly fixing the bad connection...
If they test it and say it's perfect then you can safely wait for a bit.
They should do it for you for free, and if it says the battery still has plenty of reserves then don't change it. If the battery is good I wouldn't change it.
Just keep on mind that the extra corrosion could be a sign that the capacity of the battery is going down and there is increased charging going on to maintain the proper voltage.
Usually when I start having mysterious electrical problems I don't even bother with a test, I just start with a fresh battery and go from there if it doesn't fix the problem. They are cheap enough to just replace.
Had you done that from the start though it would have fixed your problem but you wouldn't have known it was due to inadvertantly fixing the bad connection...
If they test it and say it's perfect then you can safely wait for a bit.
04-15-2007, 11:27 AM
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well im gonna go get my battery tested today n see what they say, hopefully good signs!
Also if i was to get a high powered alternator like TNRabbit, it would be smart to get a new battery right? since what you say Overdrive that the capacity of the battery is going down.
Also if i was to get a high powered alternator like TNRabbit, it would be smart to get a new battery right? since what you say Overdrive that the capacity of the battery is going down.
04-15-2007, 11:30 AM
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Batteries degrade over time to where they eventually won't hold their charge for very long. They may still show 12 volts, but have no staying power under load (for example, put the multimeter on your battery then turn on the lights & see what happens). When that happens, your alternator has to work more to keep the battery & car electronics supplied with enough current. SO while it's not IMPERATIVE that you replace the battery when you upgrade your alternator, it's a good idea if the battery is near the end of it's service life (which your's most definitely is if it's 8 years old!!)
Last edited by TNRabbit; 04-15-2007 at 11:32 AM.
04-15-2007, 05:50 PM
#98
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btw I have to also give props to ovrrdrive, he did specify it was connections first! 
Im still amazed that so many people tried to look for a purple elephant, when the problem was a simple one. Lesson learned, when diagnosing issues start with the simple stuff first cuz its the simple stuff that always fails first!
Im still amazed that so many people tried to look for a purple elephant, when the problem was a simple one. Lesson learned, when diagnosing issues start with the simple stuff first cuz its the simple stuff that always fails first!
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 04-15-2007 at 05:52 PM.
04-15-2007, 06:19 PM
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yea sry guys about that. Yea i just saw when my dad purchased the battery yea its was bought from sears in 99! lol i think i have the oldest battery n it still works i guess a diehard lives up to their name!
TNR- Yea im gonna get my alternator done by the guys that did yours, there very close where i live. could you give some info on them please.
TNR- Yea im gonna get my alternator done by the guys that did yours, there very close where i live. could you give some info on them please.
