big bear

90 Runner 3vze 5 speed 4X4 SR5.

I think the machine shop may have made a mistake, I'd like to double check their work.

Valves on the left head seem loud, and getting smoke out of the tail pipe, poor throttle response, and a miss. No check engine light.

Heads: Valve grind, new valve seals, surface check, and micro flux.

Block: new pistons, rings, bearings, thrust washer, and seals.

All machine work done by Southwest Engines in San Bernardino.

New gaskets though out, new head bolts, new O2 sensor (Denso), new plugs and wires (both NGK), new oil and water pumps(Asian), everything torqued to spec.Ignition timing set, air gap checked (.011)inch. coil resistance checked.Vacuum hoses replaced one by one after re-install. hose clamps replaced where needed.

So I'd like to hear your thoughts on checking the valve clearances.

In the 80s I had Honda motorcycles, a 10mm wrench, screwdriver, and feeler gauges was all you needed.

I've read other threads on the matter, but I'd like to hear some first hand advice.

big bear

From reading other threads, I know there is some fiction between RSR and gamefreakgc.

But from what I've read I value both of your thoughts, I'd like to hear from both of you, please.

RSR, no wasted time here.

big bear

So, I'll be checking the clearance from when the lobe allows the valve to close till the time the lobe begins to open the valve again.

big bear

Good old Haynes states.

Cold clearances.
Intake 0.18 to 0.28
Exhaust 0.2 to 0.32

That sound right gents ?

big bear

Maybe they put the hockey pucks back in the wrong order ?

big bear

I used an egg box when I dis-assembled and re-assembled.
Makes it a no-brainer

scope103

What sayeth the Good Book? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...e/64tuneup.pdf

Uh, think that through. The clearance "from when the lobe allows the valve to close" is zero.zero. It's only after the valve is completely closed and the lobe has turned away from the lifter will you be able to measure clearance. The good news is that this cam orientation is pretty hard to miss; if the lobe is sorta pointing up, you're good to measure.

You'll end up needing a few more tools. You have to remove the plenum to get to the valve covers, and some find that a little daunting. You really only want to check, but if you need to change a valve clearance you have to remove the shims, and that gets a little tricky. Not hard, just tricky.

Last, when you reinstall the valve covers, READ THE DIRECTIONS. If you fail to follow the directions they will leak. If you follow the directions, you will be fine.

big bear

A million thanks Scope for the FSM info.
I loath Haynes manuals.

Air chamber is off, engine harness out of the way.

Gotta watch the Sprint Cup race now.

big bear

Here's what I started with.


I have the confidence to do almost any mechanical work.

big bear

Good race, Ambrose had the car to beat till it went away, TOYOTA wins again #18.

big bear

Alright guys, here's the measurements I took of the clearances, per posted FSM procedure.

big bear

Do believe it was my mistake during assembly, live and learn.

Looks like I got the #2 cylinder hockey pucks (lifters) switched around.

#2 intake has too much slop, #2 exhaust is too tight.

I'll switch the pucks and take measurements.

I got the timing covers and belt off, cam sprockets off, ready to pop the cam bearings off.

I'm taking a break ATM, I'll be back at it soon.

I'll post up the results later.

big bear

big bear

FYI

There are no shims in my motor.

j2the-e

What do you mean there are no shims? You don't need to pull tbelt and the cams to adjust the valves.

big bear

Can't change the lifters with the cam in.

Like I said I do believe I got the #2 lifters switched around during installation of the heads.

See I had the heads and short block done separately, originally I was only going to have the heads done, but when the heads came back from the shop I couldn't bring myself to install those beautiful heads on that nasty old block, so I brought the short block to the shop to be re-built.

The shop I went to has been in business since the 80s, they must be doing something right.

big bear

I may be mistaken, I'm not real familiar with this motor yet.

big bear

Alright, swapped the lifters in #2.

They are both 0.011 (inch), in spec now.

Looks like I made a mistake when I put the heads on, I used an egg carton for the lifters, but must have put or pulled one out of the wrong slot.

Got the cam back in, sprockets on, I'll finish up tomorrow.

RSR

Looks like you got it covered. I actually had my mechanic do my valve adjustment -- I tried to talk my wife into letting me do it but when I told her it would probably take 2 days, she said that meant it would actually take me a week, so no...

To be be clear, I have no issue with gamefreak. I have been trying to help KH, but have been banging my head against a wall... I do like when folks first try to help themselves by using search instead of beating dead horses -- not to mention there's way more help in the archives than active members here.

Gamefreakgc

You know what I learned when I put mine back in? Check, double-check, and triple-check. It's a pain to get to the shims and I drive my truck every day so would have been a long time before I could get to them again. Glad it was such a simple fix for you and you were deep in the engine anyway. I bet you had less than 20 psi in cylinder #2 with both valves stuck open!

Same here! Every time I tell it her "it'll only take a couple of hours" she knows I'll be out there all day.

Hey, I don't mind a little clashing of minds here. Believe it or not... sometimes I'm WRONG! If mine is the only opinion on these forums then watch out! I'm no master Toyota mechanic by any means, I just speak from experience on what I've done on my rig. RSR, you definitely have a lot of good advice so keep it up!