Hey,

I have a 93 22re. I have had a missing/surging idle problem since I got the truck. I checked timing and it is waaay to advanced. The distributor won't turn any farther to retard it. I am idling between 800-900 rpms. I have the jumper thingy hooked up and I know it is working because there is a change in timing when I connect/disconnect the jumper. Previous owner said their is an oversized cam in it. Not sure if that is the problem. Read in another thread that the TPS can cause problems but I have taken all the ohm readings and they all check out on the TPS. Sooo........

Is there any other cause of an unadjustable timing advance other than the TPS being out of adjustment?

 

THe distributor could have been dropped in a couple of teeth off on the gears. Check your service manual. It should tell you something to the effect to find TDC and check that your rotor points to #1 Cyl.

 

The TPS may be out of adjustment, Did you do the feelergauge part of it?.
Check the rubber, Alll the hoses and induction tubes for leaks, The timing could be advanced to compensate for this problem.
Also maybe look into timingchain jump from bad tentioner or bad install.

I got my money on the TPS feelergauge adjustment.

 

I did a search today and found this thread.. I have a very similar problem. Put a low miles 93 22re in my 91, using the 91 distributor. All vacuum lines are correct. Setting the timing according to specs yields nice idle and NO power. Advancing the timing to around 20 degrees produces a slight miss, but the truck is driveable, power is good. A couple more degrees and it's got great (well.. you know.. 22re) power, but pings a little. So if it's not the TPS, is it in the TB? I'd like to hear how this shakes out for you..... send an update when you've got the fix and I'll do the same if I find one. -Karl

 

Ahhhh....correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't shorting the terminals bypass any effect the TPS would have on the timing?

 

No, shorting the terminals TE1 and E1 does not bypass the TPS. The IDLE to E1(I think) should be a closed switch at idle (ie low resistance under 30 ohms). If it is not then the ECU does not know that the throttle is closed therefore the timing gets advanced way up as it thinks you are trying to start moving (like 25degrees). If you jump TE1 and E1 the RPM should drop. If not your TPS is not right and your timing will look WAY advanced with the jumper in.

 

I try to learn something every day; I'm done for today!

 

You just answered my next question... When I jumped those 2 terminals, nothing changed. So there's something up with the TPS, then? I'll go back to it and see what I missed in the testing there.. Thanks!

 

Let me know; I have the same issue....

 

my TPS failed a few of the terminal tests, so I bought a new one (dealer $86) and it's okay now. timing set at 7.

 

I have a similar problem, only thing is i have to set my timing at 0 TDC to get it to run correct, only thing is it idles a bit rough, not bad but enought o aggravate ya. if i set the timing at 5 degrees BTDC i get the timing chain rattle.I have replaced

Fuel filter
NGK plugs
8mm plug wires
Timing chain and gears
Belts
Water pump
pcv valve
distributor cap
rotor


This is a 94 22re, anyone have any ideas why i have to set it this retarded?

Thanks
Bryan

 

bump^^^^^^^

 

I have seen a similar problem in the past and it was simple. You said the PO installed a oversized cam. Well I had a buddy who did that and forgot to put the washer in between the cam and distributer drive gear. It is a washer about 1/8" thick that has a hole in it. If that part is not installed the distributer gear will not sit right and the result is that the timing can not be set correctly. I would pull the valve cover off and distributer drive gear on the front of the cam off and see if the washer is there. It looks like this: