Anyone know how to do this without spending on an alignment?

I've got MAJOR negative camber after the lift kit! lol. don't want to abnormally wear these tires.

 

4 adjusting bolts under there effect camber and toe. IT's a bitch, and i hate doing it because its awkward as hell to torque them down.

each arm has a bolt with a special washers on it (front washer has markings on it) for pushing the lower A-arm out and in.

I think their 22mm and 24mm nut and bolt head. forget tho, they're big.

 

My IFS fuxored (accident) and bent so I did my alignment myself as no shop would really be able to do much since the IFS isn't square (bent lower brackets). I got mine close

but in all honesty I think in your case you're better off spending the $50-60 to have it aligned professionaly.

 

thanks

 

Yeah, spend the dough and get it done right...and possibly with a decent warranty if it goes back out. It will save you in the long run....I just spent 89.00 on mine today (but it was an offroad shop and they took their time and did it right) my rig drives like a dream now.

 

I agree, just go get it aligned. The only reason I would eyeball it would be if it was so far off i couldn't drive it to a shop to get it aligned.

 

I suspect the camber is negative, it top of wheel is inward. Roll the eccentrics on the bottom evenly on both side to draw the lower control arm inward at the bottom. If its doen evenly on both sides, caster wont change. But anytime caster or camber changes, you will need to adjust toe. Do the toe last of course.

 

backwards, the bottom of the wheel is inward, so i guess it's positive. Either way, i need to get it back to about 0* for even tire wear and good contact patch.

 

You are correct. If you have a good flat level surface to park it on, you could lay a level across the tire itself going up/down ie 6 and 12 oclock. Not sure how accurate the sidewalls are, ie consistency, but its usually a good indicator and will get ya pretty darn close. Just remember, both need to move the same amount as to not change caster.

 

I do my own alignment in my driveway using a large carpenters square and some nylon cord.

I use the square to make sure my tires are perfectly perpendicular to the metal plate I park the tires on (my driveway looks like it was floated by Stevie Wonder), I have to move the truck back and forth to relieve the tension after making adjustments. Once I get the camber set I then use the nylon cord taped to the rear tires and adjust the toe in till the cord is flush along both front and rear tires.

I used to pay for alignments a lot, when ever I go wheel it the alignment always would get messed up. I usually go trail riding 3-4 times a month and it got expensive. To tell the truth with my driveway alignments the truck tracks straighter than with any of the professional shops work and I quit getting unusual tire wear. The first time I attempted it took me about 2.5 hours but after a couple times it takes me about 15 minutes to check it, an hour to adjust and saves me 50-60 bucks each time.

 

Rcross, you want to get real cocky, you can use a protractor with a bubble on it to get your caster even. As for slip plates for your wheels, I have heard guys using a steel plate and adding some grease on it to allow the wheels to slip.

 

how much do you torque the camber on a toyota tundra?