InvaderTrax

I can't seem to find a straight answer to this. I have a 4.10 nonADD diff installed, and I want to swap in a 4.56 diff that currently has the factory ADD shaft. Rather than jam the ADD into lock, I'd like to swap the nonADD tube over. Do I need to replace the needle bearings with a bushing? Do I need to replace any seals other than silicone the flange? Or do I just unbolt and swap over? I've read a lot of different and misleading answers

MudHippy

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#front

You don't even need to silicone the flange. It has an internal axleshaft seal that makes that unnecessary.

rattlewagon

Dam. I just did this last weekend and couldant figure out how to get the short shaft out of the ADD diff. So I just put on the whole system and locked the fork in place. Works great.

InvaderTrax

So it's a better idea to leave the needle bearing in there and just bolt the nonADD shaft up and throw it on? Sounds good to me

MudHippy

No. You can't use the needle bearing with the non-ADD axleshaft. You'll have to remove the needle bearing on that side first. If you wanted to use the passenger side stubshaft from the non-ADD you'd need to remove the needle bearing on the passenger side first too.

camo31_10.50

the passenger side axle flange wears the carrier and becomes loose or wobbly, eventually causing oil leaks, noise, and possible spider gear damage.


anybody ever have this damage happen??

i plan on switching my '92 4runner over to Manual hubs, and while i'm at it..i WANT to change out the CV's (both) and swap out the ADD tube for a NON-ADD tube.

ohoktimmyg

how do you remove the needle bearing? when i pulled the non-add shaft off the diff i used two flatbars and it popped right out. im now staring at the "add diff" and cant figure how to get that needle bearing out (i removed the add tube).. help!!

ohoktimmyg

maybe its not the needle bearing, but i cant get the inner piece (axleshaft?) out of the "add diff". i pulled the add tube off and you can see that gear that spins when you turn the other/passenger side. out of curiosity i pulled the passenger side (axleshaft?) (where the cv joint bolts to the diff) and it popped right off.. i think the other side may be the same way? how do i get it out!?

i can take a picture if no one knows what i mean!

InvaderTrax

I ran into the same thing and I used two pry bars and what seemed like excessive force to remove it. Didn't damage the housing and it did pop out just takes some effort. Drove in the new seal and it seems to be working fine

ohoktimmyg

hm. i bent a flatbar lol, and i didnt wanna damage the inner part where the tubes mate. and what is this seal you are talking about? (you pressed in?)

MudHippy

Here's the FSM pages on it. It says you need a gear puller type tool to get that out(page SA-84).
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...le/24disas.pdf

But, if you can't pry it or pull it out like that, I'd take the carrier cover off. Then use the pinion(spider gear)shaft as a pivot point to lever/force it out from the inside.
When you get it out, you'll need to put the axleshaft seal where it was. See your non-ADD diff for what I mean. So do be careful not to mess up the place where the outer portion of the seal needs to fit tightly. If you do mess it up, the seal's gonna leak from around the outer edge. Of course a little RTV would probably be all that would be needed to solve that. But taking care not to do the damage in the first place is your best bet.

It's actually the same axleshaft seal as the one on the passenger side of the housing. I was incorrect in believing that the ADD diffs had the seal installed from the factory, apparently they don't. If you're careful, you can probably remove and re-use one from the non-ADD diff though. Remember, either side has the same seal. So, you've got two shots at pulling a used one without wrecking it in the process. If not, they're cheap enough.

Hey...the good news is you might not have to remove those needle bearings though. By looking at the diagrams a little closer, it seems as though they might not cause any fitment issues. If they do, then you're gonna really hate me. Because they're pressed into the differential case, and you'll need to pull it, before you can knock them out from the inside of it(as the FSM suggests to).

I'm sure someone would have mentioned that as being necessary. So, it appears I may have jumped the gun in saying that you needed to do so. When I'm not at all sure that you really do. I was assuming that they came out easy enough as to not require mentioning the specific method of doing so. Apparently not, and once again I'm representing the A S S in assuming.

Let me know if you have any success at this. I need some redemption at this point.

Sorry I wasn't too informed ahead of time on this one. I should have done more research first. My bad.

ohoktimmyg

wow! i super appreciate the reply! i ended up getting it off last night around 2am est. i think im just gonna rtv it and call it done. thanks everyone for helping me out

MudHippy

This much I know FOR SURE, you NEED to have that axleshaft seal in place. RTV just ain't gonna cut it, and as a matter of fact it won't do you any good at all. The seal is what does the job, no RTV required.

The axleshaft seal is a CRITICAL component. You CANNOT go without it. The seal itself is all that's keeping the gear oil inside the diff and from filling the tube. Once it's in the tube it can EASILY leak past the bearing at the end of the axleshaft and right on out the end of the tube.

InvaderTrax

The seal is about $15 from Toyota, or $5+shipping from rockauto.com. I tapped it in with a piece of PVC. As for the needle bearings, I left mine in there. I mic'd the ends of each shaft and they're the exact same size. The only difference was the nonADD shaft didn't have the little nose at the end like the ADD stub did. Didn't really notice if it went into another bearing or not. It could be similar to a transmission and pilot bearing deal. For now I'm gonna leave the needle bearings in there and see how it does

blake.nemitz

keep it functioning then when your hubs are locked you can still shift on the fly and stop the front shaft from spinning, best of both worlds

Utah4Runner86

iTrader: (1)

Any word on this? I'm currently looking to replace my front diff, and if it's really this easy I'll include ADD diffs in my search.