add another 3.0 to the list
03-26-2006, 05:36 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
add another 3.0 to the list
I bought my '91 sr5 5sp pickup last july with about 173k miles. since i bought it have been trying to get rid of my shakey idle, shake while cruising especially 35-45mph and feeling like there's less power than there should be. now i know the 3.0 isn't any race winner, but i have to downshift on relatively small inclines on the highway or lose a good 5-10mph. also it just feels like after 4k rpm there is nothing, just falls on its face. try to go above 5k rpm's, no way. just sings "why, WHY". also its a bear to get it above 70mph.
i've put new plugs, wires, fuel filter, fuel treatment, k&n drop in, IRS mod, set timing.. its gotten a lil better but still just doesn't feel right. i know have about 179k miles on it and decided to do a compression test after reading some of the problems listed on this site. i didn't get all the way around the motor as i ran out of daylight, but #2 and #4 were around 150psi if i recall correctly... #6 only 25psi
i put a lil oil in the cylinder and rechecked. still 25psi so i know its not rings but most likely the typical burnt valve.
i'm not really mad i suppose. i mean i know a lot of people think toyota should do something, or its unbecoming of them yadda yadda... but it does have nearly 180k miles. the headgasket recall was done back in '97 and no leaks that i can detect. i don't lose any coolant. i've been very happy with the truck. 175k miles on the original clutch (2 rivets were starting to hit the flywheel tho)... guess it was just a matter of time before i'd have to do some engine work.
last week i managed to tow a double axle car trailer w/a '82 datsun 280zx turbo without any major issues. truck didn't like taking off from a stop, but once moving it was fine. not bad for bad compression hehe
planning on SS OSV's, downey ceramic headers, if i sell enough spare parts maybe even a cam regrind if available from weasy2k when i get all stuff done. hoping to get everything going in the next month or two. i'd imagine it'll be ok till then. i've put 7k's miles on it w/a bad valve and it hasn't gotten any worse.
well thanks listening.. any input or thoughts feel free to gimme a shout...
p.s. thanks to morphine for his write up on his top end rebuild. gives me the courage to tackle the up coming job!
i've put new plugs, wires, fuel filter, fuel treatment, k&n drop in, IRS mod, set timing.. its gotten a lil better but still just doesn't feel right. i know have about 179k miles on it and decided to do a compression test after reading some of the problems listed on this site. i didn't get all the way around the motor as i ran out of daylight, but #2 and #4 were around 150psi if i recall correctly... #6 only 25psi
i put a lil oil in the cylinder and rechecked. still 25psi so i know its not rings but most likely the typical burnt valve. i'm not really mad i suppose. i mean i know a lot of people think toyota should do something, or its unbecoming of them yadda yadda... but it does have nearly 180k miles. the headgasket recall was done back in '97 and no leaks that i can detect. i don't lose any coolant. i've been very happy with the truck. 175k miles on the original clutch (2 rivets were starting to hit the flywheel tho)... guess it was just a matter of time before i'd have to do some engine work.
last week i managed to tow a double axle car trailer w/a '82 datsun 280zx turbo without any major issues. truck didn't like taking off from a stop, but once moving it was fine. not bad for bad compression hehe
planning on SS OSV's, downey ceramic headers, if i sell enough spare parts maybe even a cam regrind if available from weasy2k when i get all stuff done. hoping to get everything going in the next month or two. i'd imagine it'll be ok till then. i've put 7k's miles on it w/a bad valve and it hasn't gotten any worse.
well thanks listening.. any input or thoughts feel free to gimme a shout...
p.s. thanks to morphine for his write up on his top end rebuild. gives me the courage to tackle the up coming job!
Last edited by 91ToySR5; 03-26-2006 at 05:45 PM.
03-26-2006, 06:07 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
A buddy of mine just rebuilt his engine through a dealership. He's got a 93 that is exactly the same as mine with the exception of his is blue, mine is grey/silver. He ended up blowing his headgasket around 190,000 miles. After having the engine rebuilt, and properly I might add, he said the torque is back, and he can pull hills with no problems now where he would have previously had issues and would have had to downshift. He also has 33" x 10.5 x 15 BFG A/T's and stock gears (4.56) I might add. And that is a bone stock motor too, no mods.
Many won't agree with me I feel, but what I would do is rebuild the motor, and get it done right. If you feel that you could do it right, do it. Make sure you get the right parts machined, etc.. You haven't blown your headgasket yet, and you sound like you are an excellent candidate to do this work in your current position. I would imagine you will see a noticeably power increase just from rebuilding the motor and getting your compression back, alone.
And since you will be pulling your motor and taking it apart, it will make installing Downey Ceramic headers a hell of a lot easier since you'll have it all apart (as opposed to the "nightmare" we constantly hear about to do headers by working through the wheel wells or from under the truck).
After you get your downey headers on, and your engine back together, take your truck in to a reputable exhaust shop and get them to do you up a 2 1/4" proper exhaust from the crossover pipe out, with a higher flow cat, and hgih flow muffler like a flowmaster, magnaflow, or Borla (or others as per recommendations).
You just bought this truck, and the fact you are concerned shows you like it and plan on keeping it a while. A proper rebuild, and adding key performance parts during the rebuild process will save you money in the long run and get you up and running for a long time without issue if it is done right.
After you do the rebuild, put regular dino oil in and run it for about 500-1000 miles. Then do an oil change, and stick with dino oil until your second oil change at around 3500-4000 miles, and switch to a high quality synethetic such as Mobil 1 10w30. Running Dino oil for about 4000 miles will help your valves seat properly from your rebuild and then switch to synthetic which will help your truck's engine run cooler, and you'll also get a very mild horsepower increase and very mild fuel mileage increase.
I also want to add since you'll have your engine apart, you might want to make sure your cooling system is in absolute top shape. This means potentially looking at installing a new rad, waterpump, thermostat, etc. If your cooling system is in top shape, you run synethetic after the break in period, you run headers and a good exhaust, this will really help move heat away from the engine which in the long run will promote reliability and durability I would imagine.
I do want to note some feel you may need a mild body lift to fit Downey headers, however I'll let those who have done it chime in.
Anyways, the above will cost you thousands of dollars, but the above will also get you up and running.
I would predict, after all is said and done with the headers, good quality exhaust, synthetic oil, and the rebuild alone (with your compression back), you will probably gain about 20-25 ft-lbs of torque, and 15-20 horespower.
And if you're going to do the clutch while you're at it, have a look at something maybe a little more heavy duty (since it sounds like you will be towing) like the TRD clutch if you can find one (a little pricey, but supposedly high quality) or the Marlin Crawler Ceramic clutch. The OEM clutch though is an excellent clutch as well and what I stick with since I don't do any hardcore towing or anything.
Many won't agree with me I feel, but what I would do is rebuild the motor, and get it done right. If you feel that you could do it right, do it. Make sure you get the right parts machined, etc.. You haven't blown your headgasket yet, and you sound like you are an excellent candidate to do this work in your current position. I would imagine you will see a noticeably power increase just from rebuilding the motor and getting your compression back, alone.
And since you will be pulling your motor and taking it apart, it will make installing Downey Ceramic headers a hell of a lot easier since you'll have it all apart (as opposed to the "nightmare" we constantly hear about to do headers by working through the wheel wells or from under the truck).
After you get your downey headers on, and your engine back together, take your truck in to a reputable exhaust shop and get them to do you up a 2 1/4" proper exhaust from the crossover pipe out, with a higher flow cat, and hgih flow muffler like a flowmaster, magnaflow, or Borla (or others as per recommendations).
You just bought this truck, and the fact you are concerned shows you like it and plan on keeping it a while. A proper rebuild, and adding key performance parts during the rebuild process will save you money in the long run and get you up and running for a long time without issue if it is done right.
After you do the rebuild, put regular dino oil in and run it for about 500-1000 miles. Then do an oil change, and stick with dino oil until your second oil change at around 3500-4000 miles, and switch to a high quality synethetic such as Mobil 1 10w30. Running Dino oil for about 4000 miles will help your valves seat properly from your rebuild and then switch to synthetic which will help your truck's engine run cooler, and you'll also get a very mild horsepower increase and very mild fuel mileage increase.
I also want to add since you'll have your engine apart, you might want to make sure your cooling system is in absolute top shape. This means potentially looking at installing a new rad, waterpump, thermostat, etc. If your cooling system is in top shape, you run synethetic after the break in period, you run headers and a good exhaust, this will really help move heat away from the engine which in the long run will promote reliability and durability I would imagine.
I do want to note some feel you may need a mild body lift to fit Downey headers, however I'll let those who have done it chime in.
Anyways, the above will cost you thousands of dollars, but the above will also get you up and running.
I would predict, after all is said and done with the headers, good quality exhaust, synthetic oil, and the rebuild alone (with your compression back), you will probably gain about 20-25 ft-lbs of torque, and 15-20 horespower.
And if you're going to do the clutch while you're at it, have a look at something maybe a little more heavy duty (since it sounds like you will be towing) like the TRD clutch if you can find one (a little pricey, but supposedly high quality) or the Marlin Crawler Ceramic clutch. The OEM clutch though is an excellent clutch as well and what I stick with since I don't do any hardcore towing or anything.
03-26-2006, 06:08 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i've been meaning to check that actually - when i pulled all my plugs they were kinda light grey - like it was running lean. i can't find an adapter to the fuel rail to test it though...
03-26-2006, 06:27 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
coednaked - thanks for the info... truck already had 3" body lift, 2" blocks in rear and torsions turned up so header fit should be good. i did the clutch install back in december. i had just grabbed an autozone clutch cuz i had been planning on a 3.4 swap. had the motor but sold it recently. just gonna stick w/the 3.0. the clutch actually isn't too bad, engages well, nice pedal feel... towing the trailer definately left things to be desired lol. most times i don't have to tow anything like that tho. if anything just a small utility trailor w/stuff from home depot. now that the motor will be coming out might as well upgrade that too.
previous owner had timing belt and water pump replaced around 20k miles ago. i replaced i think the orig. O2 sensor 2 mo's ago. i checked oil pressure recently, 25-30psi warm idle, 70 psi at 3k like the fsm shows. so i think bottom end wise things are sound..
just had a stock exhaust installed w/universal cat, so i will have to bear with nice ceramic headers and stock exhaust for a lil bit for now. seeing as i'm just running 31x10.5's w/the stock 3.9? (orig. equip tire was the 225/75r15) i should still see a nice improvement once i get done w/the engine work...
previous owner had timing belt and water pump replaced around 20k miles ago. i replaced i think the orig. O2 sensor 2 mo's ago. i checked oil pressure recently, 25-30psi warm idle, 70 psi at 3k like the fsm shows. so i think bottom end wise things are sound..
just had a stock exhaust installed w/universal cat, so i will have to bear with nice ceramic headers and stock exhaust for a lil bit for now. seeing as i'm just running 31x10.5's w/the stock 3.9? (orig. equip tire was the 225/75r15) i should still see a nice improvement once i get done w/the engine work...
03-26-2006, 07:53 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Wenatchee, WA
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check the compression. If you've done all the usual maintenance items, then you might be down to a burnt exhaust valve. The #6, left rear, cylinder likes to burn exhaust valves when the valve adjustment isn't kept up.
03-26-2006, 09:16 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Your gears are probably 4.10's if you had stock 225/75/15's. If you re-geared to 4.56's which are the stock for most 5 speed/3.0's, I think you'd be a lot happier with your 31" tires.
Dump the blocks and get proper leaf springs for your lift.
Get the front end lifted properly and "de"-crank your torsion bars for a little bit of comfort and articulation up front.
Putting headers on with a stock exhaust will almost defeat the higher flow characteristics, and increased scavenging of the headers. I guess the only benefit would be that you won't have issues with future burnt exhaust valves, but to fully realize the performance potential of your headers you really need to get a proper 2 1/4" exhaust done from the cross over pipe back.
Also, don't just assume that your bottom end is fine. Make sure it is fine. If something goes on your bottom end shortly after you just re-did your top end, you'll be kicking yourself big time. Plus it will be way easier, even despite your body lift, to still install headers with the engine completley apart.
Dump the blocks and get proper leaf springs for your lift.
Get the front end lifted properly and "de"-crank your torsion bars for a little bit of comfort and articulation up front.
Putting headers on with a stock exhaust will almost defeat the higher flow characteristics, and increased scavenging of the headers. I guess the only benefit would be that you won't have issues with future burnt exhaust valves, but to fully realize the performance potential of your headers you really need to get a proper 2 1/4" exhaust done from the cross over pipe back.
Also, don't just assume that your bottom end is fine. Make sure it is fine. If something goes on your bottom end shortly after you just re-did your top end, you'll be kicking yourself big time. Plus it will be way easier, even despite your body lift, to still install headers with the engine completley apart.
Last edited by CoedNaked; 03-26-2006 at 09:19 PM. Reason: No reason
Trending Topics
03-27-2006, 06:43 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you reinstall the heads, use new head bolts from Engnbldr: do NOT reuse the old bolts because they are a one-time-use only fastener. Closely inspect your radiator fan/pulley bracket assembly on the front of the engine (they're expensive if it goes out). If you want to eliminate the pulleys/fan, install an electric fan kit or a Ford Taurus fan, saw off the pulley shaft flush with the housing, and replace the belts with shorter belts. You'll never have to worry about the fan bracket bearing again. Replace the knock sensor wire for future insurance, and replace the shift lever seat in the transmission if your shift lever feels loose or if it pops out of first or third gear. Also, you may want to look into upper ball joint spacers for the front to lift it and get back some suspension travel. Maybe longer spring shackles and/or an add-a-leaf to lift the rear without risking axle wrap. Look into Toyota recall Campaign #50N to replace your steering relay rod (safety issue!) if you haven't done so already. I think that about wraps it up. Good luck and happy wrenching! 
03-27-2006, 03:30 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow what a lot of info - u guys are great. i have read most of the info on the site but is always great to hear it over again to reassure. i checked the axle code on my door jam - G294 - so it is the 4.10's - thought i read before that it was the 3.90...
coednaked: i definately want to take the blocks out of the rear end and lower the torsions. i tried to have my techs do it at work (work at a dealership) but my adjuster nuts on the torsion bars are frozen solid. we added penetrating oil for 2 days and can't get them loose - i did buy new ones but haven't had a chance to install. i'll prolly just leave it stock height plus the 3" body lift thats already installed. it rides fairly decent, but hit uneven road it is ruff! i know i'll eventually put the 2.25" exhaust on, but might stick with stock just to get it on the road - gonna cost me enuff already. what should i look for on the bottom end once i have the engine out? i can swing a wrench very well, but when it comes to checking tolerences and such i am a bit of a novice - eager to learn tho...
radyota - new headbolts are definately on the list - even if as some claim they aren't stretch to yield - they are 15 years old. definately good preventative measure. i have a feeling the fan/pulley bracket has been changed as the upper part of the radiator shroud is missing/broken off and there are black marks on the fan itself. new shroud is on the list as well. shifter bushing i replaced when i did my clutch. recall i had done recently - thank u post-it-notes on yotatech.com!
miket223 - in my orig post i noted #6 compression is only 25psi so i know theres an issue there. i put a lil oil in the cylinder and compression didn't raise so it must be a valve issue.
all in all she's in good shape. the body is in absolutely great shape (no rot) which is very rare here in NY. truck was orig. from louisiana. has its share of dings and what not, but no holes - all orig body panels. i've done a bit of mechanical work on it since i bought it. new pads, rotors, cv's (boots were cracked), outter tie rod ends, got e-brake working again, new plugs and wires, o2 sensor, clutch/flywheel, new tires and a few other things i'm sure i forget. i really enjoy the truck, its the perfect size for me (extra cab) and is pretty snappy around town. just wish it had a lil more oomph on the highway. i'm sure with the upcoming top end work it'll be up to where i want it. i don't expect to chase down mustangs with it or anything - thats what my lil datsun 260z is for!
thanks again all for your input. once i get things rolling w/the rebuild i will update my progress. you guys are great!
coednaked: i definately want to take the blocks out of the rear end and lower the torsions. i tried to have my techs do it at work (work at a dealership) but my adjuster nuts on the torsion bars are frozen solid. we added penetrating oil for 2 days and can't get them loose - i did buy new ones but haven't had a chance to install. i'll prolly just leave it stock height plus the 3" body lift thats already installed. it rides fairly decent, but hit uneven road it is ruff! i know i'll eventually put the 2.25" exhaust on, but might stick with stock just to get it on the road - gonna cost me enuff already. what should i look for on the bottom end once i have the engine out? i can swing a wrench very well, but when it comes to checking tolerences and such i am a bit of a novice - eager to learn tho...
radyota - new headbolts are definately on the list - even if as some claim they aren't stretch to yield - they are 15 years old. definately good preventative measure. i have a feeling the fan/pulley bracket has been changed as the upper part of the radiator shroud is missing/broken off and there are black marks on the fan itself. new shroud is on the list as well. shifter bushing i replaced when i did my clutch. recall i had done recently - thank u post-it-notes on yotatech.com!
miket223 - in my orig post i noted #6 compression is only 25psi so i know theres an issue there. i put a lil oil in the cylinder and compression didn't raise so it must be a valve issue.
all in all she's in good shape. the body is in absolutely great shape (no rot) which is very rare here in NY. truck was orig. from louisiana. has its share of dings and what not, but no holes - all orig body panels. i've done a bit of mechanical work on it since i bought it. new pads, rotors, cv's (boots were cracked), outter tie rod ends, got e-brake working again, new plugs and wires, o2 sensor, clutch/flywheel, new tires and a few other things i'm sure i forget. i really enjoy the truck, its the perfect size for me (extra cab) and is pretty snappy around town. just wish it had a lil more oomph on the highway. i'm sure with the upcoming top end work it'll be up to where i want it. i don't expect to chase down mustangs with it or anything - thats what my lil datsun 260z is for!
thanks again all for your input. once i get things rolling w/the rebuild i will update my progress. you guys are great!
03-29-2006, 07:06 AM
#10
Registered User
just for giggles have someone ck the valve adjustment,i bought my 91 runne after someone told the previious owner it needed an engine,$300 for the rig & a valve adj runs like a top,will likely burn a valve b/c took smallest shim toyota has to gt clearance but it might give you time to start saving for that rebuild,the 91 has 302k miles on it,recall was done at 160k,im trying to save for that rainy day we all no is coming for the 3.0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jasonty
Pre 84 Trucks (Build-Up Section)
41
12-23-2018 01:00 PM
defrag4
Vehicles - Trailers (Complete)
0
07-31-2015 10:50 AM
