What can make only one side seize? Even with new caliper…
Longer version, I have a ‘95 that I did brake pads on, the driver’s side caliper had one piston that was a real bear to get compressed. I went ahead and put everything back together but there was definitely some braking and driving vibration that I didn’t have before. I got back to my house and smelled hot brake smell from that wheel and assume a partially seized caliper so I went ahead and decided to put a new caliper on. Installed caliper, bled thoroughly till getting nice clean brake fluid through, and went for a test drive. About 5 miles of 40-45 mph driving and a few stops vibration and hot brake smell back. I was able to get home quickly and immediately jacked the front up. The driver’s wheel won’t turn and strong hot brake smell. Passenger side is just fine. Got my temp gun out and the rotor on the driver’s side just red hi, which I think is above 300 degrees, the rotor on the passenger side was about 160 so I fully feel the caliper is holding pressure for some reason. What do I dig into now? Thanks all!

 

It is likely to be your brake hose to the driver's side. They can fail and act like a check valve allowing braking pressure to the caliper but not allowing it to release. What I would do is to take the wheel off while the brake is locked up and crack the bleeder on that caliper and see if the brake releases. You could then pump the brakes again to get it locked up and then crack the brake line above the hose and see if the caliper stays locked up.
Here's the thing though, since you already drove it until it was smoking hot and you had a vibration you have warped that rotor and will always have a vibration until you replace the rotor.
I always recommend doing brake repairs to both sides at the same time to avoid one side working better than the other and causing a pull under braking, so, the best bet is to replace both rotors, both hoses and both calipers (you already did one).
good luck.

 

Thanks for the thorough troubleshooting info! I have concluded from some other input that it is likely the hose. I will plan on doing both. I do plan to do new rotors very soon as I need to do cv boots or might just throw in new cvs…would just plan to do rotors at the same time. Appreciate it!

 

I think you'll have a better product if you just put new boots on you oem cv joints. it is a bit messy, I'll grant you that.

 

Well, new flex hose and it’s still holding pressure only on the drivers side caliper…
What do I look at next? I would think if it were something in the master cylinder the entire system would be weird. The metal line seems to be in fine shape, and compressing the caliper can be done by hand when the bleeder is cracked. I really thought the new loose fix it based on quite a few folks saying the same thing. I am able to straighten out the old hose and see light straight through it…

 

That short section of tubing that goes from the brake hose to the caliper is ok?

 

It is, when I was replacing the hose, I compressed the caliper pistons just a tad to make sure fluid came out of the hose and it did so very easily

 

Also want to add that the booster was recently replaced by the previous owner. I’ve only owned this for about 2 months. I just remembered the po said he recently replaced that…any reason to think that could affect just one brake?

 

Just to validate some of your assumptions,
an issue with the master cylinder or brake booster would effect both front brakes or all 4 brakes unless the front brake lines go all the way to the master cylinder with no Tee fitting. Most master cylinders have one brake line to the front brakes and one to the rear brakes with Tee fittings further downstream that split the lines for left and right. The only other issue that comes to my mind is if the other caliber isn't working at all, the master cylinder could then be the issue and you would only see one brake drag.
My suggestion to crack the brake line loose from the brake hose was intended to confirm that the hose was the issue.
I always start at the bleeder, confirm that the caliper releases when it's opened, then pump the brakes to get it locked back up and move up the line to the frame side of the hose and see if the caliper still releases when the fitting is cracked loose. If it does not release your issue (blockage) is with the hose or the short hard line between the hose and the caliper.
If the caliper does release your blockage is further upstream and you need to move to the next fitting in that branch and repeat the process.

 

I was pondering along the same line. The brake tube schematic shows there is a junction block/union that splits the front lines to left and right. I assume it's close to the brake booster under the master.
I wonder what the bottom of the brake master reservoir looks like if all the brake fluid was sucked out.

 

So my vehicle has a single line from master cylinder to abs actuator. Three lines come out of the actuator, one for each front wheel and one to the rear wheels. I’m going to start working from the calipers up and see if I get any flow issues. I’ve already verified the fuse is good and power to the abs unit…but maybe it has an internal restriction?

 

I think it likely that ABS is the magic word.

 

I could care less about having abs…any legit way to disconnect it? This vehicle is primarily a beach buggy and around town driver.

 

ABS-equipped would have been good to know. And I don’t think disabling a safety device is a good idea. But your call.

 

Apologies I left out that it has ABS…any new pointers on what to look for there or is the next thin g to do replace the abs actuator?

 

You might empty the brake master reservoir and make sure there’s no sediment sitting at the bottom.

 

That’s going to be my next step, try to flush the system…I cracked the lines coming out of the abs actuator and had my wife pump the pedal and the liquid coming out did seem to have some sediment. Thanks again for all the help!

 

I’m not sure how to clean an actuator, but brake fluid is 100% soluble in water. If I was prepared to buy a new one I’d risk cleaning the old actuator thinking I had nothing to lose.

 

Back in the day, alcohol was a preferred brake flushing solvent.
Not harmful to the rubber parts and water absorbing.
91% isopropyl aky is cheap at the the drugstore.
Better than water, I think.

 

hard to say; i don't consider it a true safety device. none of my current fleet of 9 vehicles has ABS (nor had ABS). i had a significant issue with ABS in a '95 legacy i used to own; the issue was i couldn't stop the car in slushy snow on asphalt. the ABS prevented the vehicle from stopping - i went sliding through a 4-way stop intersection because of it. i then disabled the ABS, and with the same snow tires on the car, never had an issue stopping or steering the car on slushy/icy pavement during 15 more years of driving it. ABS isn't for me - i prefer to stop when applying the brakes.